I'm a fan of replacing all the jackshaft/driveshaft/chaincase bearings every 2000 miles... especially on a turbo sled that makes double the HP of a stocker.
The power commander is good.
2 seasons... time for a new thermostat (watch that you align it correctly) and new coolant. Vacuum out ALL of the old stuff. (shop vac)
Change both primary and secondary clutch springs (wait till the beginning of the season for this)... Make damn sure that the belt side clearance is correct and the deflection is good, pull apart the primary and secondary, add 2 delrin washers under the spring cup in the secondary.
I'm a big fan of getting the primary fully brought up to spec, balanced, shimmed for the belt and all bushings replaced that are questionable.
Pull out the skid... change the Hyfax if needed, check all bearings for smooth operation, pull the pivot shafts and clean out the old grease and gunk... tighten all the bolts and make sure there is no slop in the scissor mechanism.
MAKE SURE TO USE GREASE THAT IS COMPATIBLE WITH THE COLD WEATHER. I prefer Red Line CV -2 synthetic grease.. it keeps its viscosity even when cold... you would not believe how poorly a skid functions that has regular grease in it when it is cold out... and a suspension really does not get the chance to "warm up" much.
Switch out to the 47 degree springs that were outlined in the "big boy" spring thread on here ... regardless of your weight ( I weigh 170 with gear... I used the 47 degree .359 springs and this made the suspension better for mountain riding.
Inspect all body work rivets and replace any that are loose.
Tighten the steering hoop bolts,... grease the steering post bearing.
Replace the PTO front bolt as outlined in the forums here... I would not be surprised if it were broken already.
Set your TPS dead-on.
Check your wiring harness CAREFULLY for any chaffing.
Clean the entire under hood area.
Change out the top sprocket in the chaincase and thoroughly clean out the chain case. Inspect the tensioner block and replace if necessary.
2yrs old... replace the brake fluid.
Change the fuel filter.
Change the oil filter if you have more than 1500 miles on the sled.
Pull the tank, check the throttle body boots for cracking, clean the back side of the motor... If you have the extra $75 ... send in your injectors for cleaning and flow checking.
I'd run the Power Commander without a doubt... Polaris has to meet EPA stds... you do not. This is where the reliability issues came up, IMO.
Lift your sled, pull the skis and pivot bolts and grease the heck out of them and the pivot spacers with quality synth grease... check the ball joints and rod ends for slop... replace as necessary...
Put the effort into careful setup of both toe in/out and camber settings... this will pay off in spades.
Send your shocks back to Walker Evans or Fast Trax for service/recharge.. the 2009's have the most current valve specs and pistons in them...but they will also check other parts for wear n tear and replace them if necessary.
Make sure that the grip heater cables are not rubbed thru and that they haven't had the connections on the film messed up at the grips themselves.
Replace your grips if worn out.
Tighten your track to Factory specs when you put it back together.
Add a second pair of hood straps to protect your investment if you roll the sled
