snow bike maintenance?
- Thread starter tomk
- Start date
maint.
oil change is the biggets thing. The fuel injected bikes do tend to get gas inthe oil from running in the rich mode. get the air box done right and shoud be good. snowbikes are a blast.
oil change is the biggets thing. The fuel injected bikes do tend to get gas inthe oil from running in the rich mode. get the air box done right and shoud be good. snowbikes are a blast.
F
FrozenMOTO
Active member
If you guys are getting gas in they oil you need to find a way to make the bike run hotter like blocking your rads or maybe more if you have to. Gas in the oil is bad all around. These engines run really hard and fast and if you are getting gas in the oil it means your cylinder isnt running at operating temp. This means that your bike is running cold and everything is loose. When you start your bike or car it runs crappy when cold then it warms up and which tightens everything in the engine up to tolerance, it also brings the compression in the cylinders up. Running your bikes like that is like running you bike real hard when its cold and is VERY bad for the engine.
I am just saying this because I dont want you guys to mess up your bikes. I realize your FI bikes are compensating but it would almost be better if they didn't as it would force you to find a solution.
IMO running the bikes like this is about as bad for it as anything minus running it with a dirty filter in the summer.
I am a snowbike builder and have been riding my bike in the winter with screws for many years before that and you can get your bike to run correctly and it will make ALOT more power as well.
Good Luck!
I am just saying this because I dont want you guys to mess up your bikes. I realize your FI bikes are compensating but it would almost be better if they didn't as it would force you to find a solution.
IMO running the bikes like this is about as bad for it as anything minus running it with a dirty filter in the summer.
I am a snowbike builder and have been riding my bike in the winter with screws for many years before that and you can get your bike to run correctly and it will make ALOT more power as well.
Good Luck!
Bike has been good
Only a few oil changes on the bike but on the second set of sprockets and chains on the MH. I adj and lube after every ride.
Now have gone to a much better grade of chain with X rings (better O ring seals). Still need to lube so the aluminum sprockets dont go away but chain stretch is minimal.
Only a few oil changes on the bike but on the second set of sprockets and chains on the MH. I adj and lube after every ride.
Now have gone to a much better grade of chain with X rings (better O ring seals). Still need to lube so the aluminum sprockets dont go away but chain stretch is minimal.
I own 6 snow bikes, they get ridden 3 to 5 day a week. They do get gas in the oil but it does not seem to be a problem with their durability. The bike I ride the most is a 2010 YZ 450. I have 120 hours on the bike now and I have never had to by a replacement part for it.
Here is what I do for maintenance.
• Change the oil and filter every 2 rides.
• Lube and check chains and check tension every ride.
• Look over and wipe down bike every ride (this helps to find any loose or missing bolts).
Allen
Here is what I do for maintenance.
• Change the oil and filter every 2 rides.
• Lube and check chains and check tension every ride.
• Look over and wipe down bike every ride (this helps to find any loose or missing bolts).
Allen
Aluminum shavings in MH chaincase
Rode with a new guy today on a Kaw 450. The 450 has a problem with gas in the oil, so an oil change is required after every ride. But it always lit right off with only a kick (no E start or headlight/hot grips). Gobs of power and got around great.
There is aluminum shavings in the chain case of the MH set up. He said he lubes and adjustes every ride ( me too). Just a warning guys to keep an eye on your chain case sprockets and chain.
If the chain gets worn in/out you DO NEED to change to a better quality, so the aluminum sprockets do not wear out. And lube EVERY ride.
Rode with a new guy today on a Kaw 450. The 450 has a problem with gas in the oil, so an oil change is required after every ride. But it always lit right off with only a kick (no E start or headlight/hot grips). Gobs of power and got around great.
There is aluminum shavings in the chain case of the MH set up. He said he lubes and adjustes every ride ( me too). Just a warning guys to keep an eye on your chain case sprockets and chain.
If the chain gets worn in/out you DO NEED to change to a better quality, so the aluminum sprockets do not wear out. And lube EVERY ride.
????????
what brand of chain do they use? I use an rk 530 o ring chain but my sprockets were wearing real bad. I used browning taper lock sprockets. they are wore real bad after just 20 hrs, so i got a new set and had hardened to a rockwell 60 so will see how they hold up. There is alot of load on these sprockets so lube is very important.
what brand of chain do they use? I use an rk 530 o ring chain but my sprockets were wearing real bad. I used browning taper lock sprockets. they are wore real bad after just 20 hrs, so i got a new set and had hardened to a rockwell 60 so will see how they hold up. There is alot of load on these sprockets so lube is very important.
O ring WP chain
I never had chain problems with two seasons on my 2moto. Some of my friends never lubed their 2moto chains at all. I did see sprocket wear and rusty chains on the ones with no lube.
I always (and still do) spray the chains off with WD40 after every ride and lube/adjust before the next ride.
The MH kit used a Western Power Sports O ring chain. After the chain wears out the links are spaced too far apart and it wears the sprockets out.
I never had chain problems with two seasons on my 2moto. Some of my friends never lubed their 2moto chains at all. I did see sprocket wear and rusty chains on the ones with no lube.
I always (and still do) spray the chains off with WD40 after every ride and lube/adjust before the next ride.
4 gallons gas main tank
I have 4 gallons fuel main tank and carry another 1.3 gallons. I should be able to ride 90 miles on a 530 (510cc carb) KTM.
More riders with sprocket problems
Went out riding Saturday with a father and son. Both are on their second set of sprockets and chains. The son said he heard TimberSled was thinking of making steel sprockets (something I sugested a month ago when my first set was bad). Steel sprockets are a must as the aluminum ones are not holding up, even with excelent matainantce.
On another note my Mountain Addicition fuel tank decided to leave the rails and it was lost. I had the ancor pin in along with a bungie over the whole thing.
So guys make sure the bungie is through the fuel tank handle (mine was not).
I have noticed my top tunnel pan is cracking (I assume from engine vibration) where it ataches to the rear lift bar. One other rider's has started to crack in the same place too. This should not cause any issues and will be an easy repair.
Went out riding Saturday with a father and son. Both are on their second set of sprockets and chains. The son said he heard TimberSled was thinking of making steel sprockets (something I sugested a month ago when my first set was bad). Steel sprockets are a must as the aluminum ones are not holding up, even with excelent matainantce.
On another note my Mountain Addicition fuel tank decided to leave the rails and it was lost. I had the ancor pin in along with a bungie over the whole thing.
So guys make sure the bungie is through the fuel tank handle (mine was not).
I have noticed my top tunnel pan is cracking (I assume from engine vibration) where it ataches to the rear lift bar. One other rider's has started to crack in the same place too. This should not cause any issues and will be an easy repair.
How thick of plate did they use on the tunnel top? The kx vibrates so bad my first top broke in only a few hrs. Just have plastic there for now not sure what to use. That sucks about your gas can. I was thinking about getting one But not sure about the slide system. Does it deform when you go from big elevation changes or temp changes?
.079" tunnel top pan thickness
The tank was thick and did not deform with temp. I did notice it would purge some fuel (filled full) when warm.
And the sprocket saga continues
Had a great ride day yesterday. Lots of wide open deep snow uphill conditions. And I knew my chain (second stock WPS chain) was due for replacment with the Tisubaki Omega.
But on returning home and getting ready for replacment I noticed the primary drive sprocket had 4 teeth missing and the chain case sprockets are toast. These are my second set of sprockets!
So I called TimberSled to see when steel sprockets would be avaivable and was told (not by Allen) that there is no plans on making steel sprockets.
After a trip to Sandpoint and a lighter wallet I will be on my THIRD SPROCKET SET. Bummer.
I can only hope the better chain will help the sprocket wear. I am heavily using the recommend Maxima Chain Wax but might try something else.
Any ideas??
Had a great ride day yesterday. Lots of wide open deep snow uphill conditions. And I knew my chain (second stock WPS chain) was due for replacment with the Tisubaki Omega.
But on returning home and getting ready for replacment I noticed the primary drive sprocket had 4 teeth missing and the chain case sprockets are toast. These are my second set of sprockets!
So I called TimberSled to see when steel sprockets would be avaivable and was told (not by Allen) that there is no plans on making steel sprockets.
After a trip to Sandpoint and a lighter wallet I will be on my THIRD SPROCKET SET. Bummer.
I can only hope the better chain will help the sprocket wear. I am heavily using the recommend Maxima Chain Wax but might try something else.
Any ideas??
Who in their right mind decided that Aluminum was a good material to use for a drive sprocket?? Heck, why not a carbon fibre drive chain too?
I'm sorry, but that is simply NOT a good idea. Nothing else out there uses aluminum sprockets under 40T for a good reason.
Although, the high tech keyway in the aluminum seems like such a novel idea.. Didn't John Deere have a patent on that form of power transmission in the 30's?
I sure hope a solution is found, as you are not the only one having sprocket issues.
The TYC chain also is not good, that stands for Terribly Yucky Chain. Go DID or EK if you want good life (Assuming the other weak link gets fixed).
Kinda makes you wonder doesn't it?
Jon
I'm sorry, but that is simply NOT a good idea. Nothing else out there uses aluminum sprockets under 40T for a good reason.
Although, the high tech keyway in the aluminum seems like such a novel idea.. Didn't John Deere have a patent on that form of power transmission in the 30's?
I sure hope a solution is found, as you are not the only one having sprocket issues.
The TYC chain also is not good, that stands for Terribly Yucky Chain. Go DID or EK if you want good life (Assuming the other weak link gets fixed).
Kinda makes you wonder doesn't it?
Jon
F
FrozenMOTO
Active member
The problem is the sprockets are too small which is putting to much load on the teeth. Basically the larger the sprocket the less force it takes to turn the axle at a specific speed. Thats why aluminum sprockets on a dirtbike hub last a while but it looks like you guys will be going through 3 or more sets a season. Its also the same reason you wont see ANY company making an aluminum counter sprocket.
I bet the reason that they are not using steel sprockets is the cost to machine aluminum is much lower than steel. There are very few cost effective ways to make sprockets at low quantities.
Just curious, is you shaft that the sprockets are going on splined, keyed, or something else.
Its crazy how fast you are chewing them up.
F
FrozenMOTO
Active member
After reading it I see that it may be keyed. If so let me know.
It is a keyed drive sprocket.. And although my comment is harsh, I do think it's completely valid.
I do realize that cutting splines is a terribly expensive process, and it would not really be possible to use a spline mid shaft like that and still retain a "cheap" drive axle.
Although I don't think that justifies it being used on a piece of premium equipment.
Jon
I do realize that cutting splines is a terribly expensive process, and it would not really be possible to use a spline mid shaft like that and still retain a "cheap" drive axle.
Although I don't think that justifies it being used on a piece of premium equipment.
Jon
How many hours are you getting out of a set of sprockets? I have about 40 hours on mine and they're just starting to show wear. What is the damage for a new set? I almost don't want to know.
1100 miles this winter
The chain is a major problem, once it wears to a point it goes totaly bad in one hard ride. This has now happend to me twice (sprockets OK before ride and toast after).
And like Randy stated the smaller sprockets are the first to go because of the smaller load surface.
My second set has at least 400 miles. With a quality chain the sprocket teeth will not be dished out as fast and should last longer.
Sprocket retail is $75 X 3 and my Tusabki Omega 140 link chain was $180.
My first set lasted aprox 700 miles and once they started wearing, I was suprised how fast they were trashed.
The chain is a major problem, once it wears to a point it goes totaly bad in one hard ride. This has now happend to me twice (sprockets OK before ride and toast after).
And like Randy stated the smaller sprockets are the first to go because of the smaller load surface.
My second set has at least 400 miles. With a quality chain the sprocket teeth will not be dished out as fast and should last longer.
Sprocket retail is $75 X 3 and my Tusabki Omega 140 link chain was $180.
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