SLP Single pipe W/O Boondocker

[duleau]

Called SLP today and they said i did not need a boondocker for my 2008 M8 riding at 0 to 1000 ft.Said they have done lots of testing without the box at my alltitude and no problems.

I was just about to order a MSRP can and D&D y pipe.But after that phone call i want the single pipe if i don't have to fork out an extra 500.00 bucks for the box.

We don't have big enough hills around here to hold it wide open for more then 10 seconds.Only place i hold it wide open for a while is in the fields.

I would like to get the bottom line on what you guys think.If i don't get the box will i blow this thing up or will i be ok?

Thanks

 

[chip13]

I just installed their single pipe kit on my '07 M8 and they told me the same thing. I installed dual Koso EGT's just to keep an eye on cylinder temps but I don't plan on using a Boondocker box.

 

[F7arcticcat]

I don't think you find a problem running at WOT, but more in the midrange. Mine gets the hottest around 5-6500 rpms if I'm not varying the throttle.

 

[JHG]

I posted this in another thread and will post it again here since the topic is pretty close. I'm riding much higher than you but I would still use the same caution. Every sled is going to run a little different.

From the other thread:

Just a note on this, you can run it with out the box but I would be careful. The pipe setup alone maybe okay but if you alter the intake at all you maybe in trouble. I'm running the slp setup with a BDX black boxx. I have an A/F gauge on the sled as well. Yesterday the sled wouldn't restart after it layed on it's side for awhile so I thought my Boondocker box might be the issue. I disconnected the box and eventually got the sled restarted. I ran without the BD box for awhile and saw some pretty scary numbers on the A/F gauge. It was fine at certain RPM's running in the 12's and once or twice I saw 11's but also consistently had numbers in the high 14's and 15's around 4500-6000 RPM's. I was riding around 9000-9500'. If you're going to run the pipe without a control box or anything to monitor EGT's or A/F ratio I would at least pull the plugs or check the wash regularly for the first couple hundred miles. Just my observations and opinion.

 

[F7arcticcat]

I posted this in another thread and will post it again here since the topic is pretty close. I'm riding much higher than you but I would still use the same caution. Every sled is going to run a little different.

From the other thread:

Just a note on this, you can run it with out the box but I would be careful. The pipe setup alone maybe okay but if you alter the intake at all you maybe in trouble. I'm running the slp setup with a BDX black boxx. I have an A/F gauge on the sled as well. Yesterday the sled wouldn't restart after it layed on it's side for awhile so I thought my Boondocker box might be the issue. I disconnected the box and eventually got the sled restarted. I ran without the BD box for awhile and saw some pretty scary numbers on the A/F gauge. It was fine at certain RPM's running in the 12's and once or twice I saw 11's but also consistently had numbers in the high 14's and 15's around 4500-6000 RPM's. I was riding around 9000-9500'. If you're going to run the pipe without a control box or anything to monitor EGT's or A/F ratio I would at least pull the plugs or check the wash regularly for the first couple hundred miles. Just my observations and opinion.

Care to share your BD numbers?? At 8-10K I have basically been running zeros. If I add any more than 2 clicks in the mid range it seems to get boggy.

 

[JHG]

Care to share your BD numbers?? At 8-10K I have basically been running zeros. If I add any more than 2 clicks in the mid range it seems to get boggy.

Yeah, I can pull them off for you, it will probably be tomorrow night though when i get back from riding, the sled is in the back of my truck right now. Off the top of my head I'm pretty sure the 5000's are something like 3 5 2 0. I took a little out at 6800 HI and think I added a number or two at 3000 Hi. I'll get good numbers for you tomorrow. I mainly just try to vary the throttle in that 5000 range where it runs really lean. I think if you ran the pipe with a A/F gauge you could work around the lean spots but that's kind of a pain. At my altitude w/ the pipe I'm certain that if I spent a long time running 4800-5000 rpm's without a box it would go down. I've also noticed that the box plugged in with all zeros makes the sled run richer than with it unpluged. I have no idea what that's all about.

 

[cat08m8]

Hey big hoe i would also like to see your numbers i have 08 m8 and running the bd box for nos the only thing i have done is take up to -3 and 4 on my low end to get ride of a bad bogg and that seems to go away or get better when the sled gets warm running slp intake what are your thoughts??

 

[cat08m8]

ttt

 

[JHG]

Alright here's what I've got. The numbers I posted yesterday were way off. They are about what I started the day at but they weren't working so well. The snow has been pretty good this year so far so I haven't been running much in that mid range. Today the snow was bad so I had lots of time to play with the box on the trail and this is what worked best and the A/F numbers were pretty good when all was said and done.

3000 0 0 0 0
5000 -2 -2 3 0
6700 1 0 -2 0
7800 0 3 4 0
8100 0 0 3 0

These seem a little crazy but it's what seemed to work best for me. I went up as high as 12 numbers in the mid range lean spot and all it did was load up and bog when you got in the throttle. I leaned it out and the bog went away. I started thinking about it and decided to quit worrying about the lean numbers as long as they weren't burn down lean. At 5000 Lo is where the bog problem was starting(using the capture feature) and in thinking about it you really aren't worried about making power there (just kind of cruising down the trail)so as long as you're not burning down, A/F numbers in the high 13's and low 14's seemed okay. By reducing fuel there it wasn't loaded up when I got back on the throttle. I added fuel in the 5000 Hi because I wanted to bring the A/F ratio down to about 12.5, maximizing Hp going into the next range. No bogging occurred when I did this. When I talked with a guy from cat last year about the ECU reflash he told me they added fuel in the mid range to bring down temps there. Maybe that fuel needs to come back out when you add a pipe. The other numbers were just what was needed to correct lean and fat spots. I'm not sure about the -2 in the 6700 HI, the power valves are opening there and giving me different A/F numbers every time. I think I'll hook up the TPS wire to subtract a little fuel when the valves open. Maybe another day on a different ride. I'm sure other people have other ideas but this is just whats working for me. hope it helps.

 

[HMC 399]

Big Hoe what fuel pressure is your sled running

 

[cat08m8]

Alright here's what I've got. The numbers I posted yesterday were way off. They are about what I started the day at but they weren't working so well. The snow has been pretty good this year so far so I haven't been running much in that mid range. Today the snow was bad so I had lots of time to play with the box on the trail and this is what worked best and the A/F numbers were pretty good when all was said and done.

3000 0 0 0 0
5000 -2 -2 3 0
6700 1 0 -2 0
7800 0 3 4 0
8100 0 0 3 0

These seem a little crazy but it's what seemed to work best for me. I went up as high as 12 numbers in the mid range lean spot and all it did was load up and bog when you got in the throttle. I leaned it out and the bog went away. I started thinking about it and decided to quit worrying about the lean numbers as long as they weren't burn down lean. At 5000 Lo is where the bog problem was starting(using the capture feature) and in thinking about it you really aren't worried about making power there (just kind of cruising down the trail)so as long as you're not burning down, A/F numbers in the high 13's and low 14's seemed okay. By reducing fuel there it wasn't loaded up when I got back on the throttle. I added fuel in the 5000 Hi because I wanted to bring the A/F ratio down to about 12.5, maximizing Hp going into the next range. No bogging occurred when I did this. When I talked with a guy from cat last year about the ECU reflash he told me they added fuel in the mid range to bring down temps there. Maybe that fuel needs to come back out when you add a pipe. The other numbers were just what was needed to correct lean and fat spots. I'm not sure about the -2 in the 6700 HI, the power valves are opening there and giving me different A/F numbers every time. I think I'll hook up the TPS wire to subtract a little fuel when the valves open. Maybe another day on a different ride. I'm sure other people have other ideas but this is just whats working for me. hope it helps.

yeah that makes sense i like those and think im going to try them i just think in my m8 there has to be just a little more never know i guess

 

[F7arcticcat]

Thanks for posting

 

[duleau]

Thanks guys.

Is it just me or anyone else having a hard time forking out 700.00(Can) for the single pipe.I have the ok from SLP,have the money but still am having a hard time picking up the phone and ordering one.

700.00 for slp pipe
300.00 for EGT
500.00 for boondocker if it come to that
Have to change parts in the clutches after pipe probably $$???

Keep it stock and ride it like that or start dumping money into it.Geez

Steven

 

[JHG]

Thanks guys.

Is it just me or anyone else having a hard time forking out 700.00(Can) for the single pipe.I have the ok from SLP,have the money but still am having a hard time picking up the phone and ordering one.

700.00 for slp pipe
300.00 for EGT
500.00 for boondocker if it come to that
Have to change parts in the clutches after pipe probably $$???

Keep it stock and ride it like that or start dumping money into it.Geez

Steven

I guess you gotta pay to play huh. Modding isn't cheap. If you're looking into EGT's I would go with and A/F gauge. The A/F mixture won't lie to you, EGT's can be deceiving. If you're only going with one or the other, I would opt for an A/F gauge.

As for the Boondocker Box, shop around on the forum, they come up for sale often and usually are about $200. You can use the box for an M6, M7, M8 or 900 EFI on your M8. They are different part numbers but the same box. They made a 10 pin connector box and a 12 pin connector box, the 10 pin is newer and more easily updated but for just controlling fuel the 12 pin would work for you.

Clutching isn't a huge deal, you'll just need to change your weights. You don't have to run the SLP MTX weights, just buy cat weights and swap them out. A set of cat weights is only about $60. All you have to do is pull the bolts out of the primary cover and unbolt the three weights. Really not a huge deal and I've done it on the hill several times.

Once again, you may not need the box if you stop with just a pipe but if you go any farther, my experience is you will need a box. Once you put the pipe on there you are going to want to keep going. Porting and heads mods are next for you!!