Slp exhaust system
- Thread starter i'llDooit
- Start date
Devilmaniak added it last year to little fan fair. He took it off and went back to stock. Not sure if he did their clutching recommendations though. You could contact him for more information.
I did their clutching, I tried mine, I did DJ clutching before I gave up and went to stock. I went out every night testing different clutching, nothing worked. There MAY be a horse or two to gain on top, but the bottom and mid suffered. It also randomly bogged. Not sure how SLP can sell something that doesn't work, but evidently they do.
I see this is for the SkiDoo riders . OOPS My bad.
Thats odd that the SLP pipe system did not perform any better then stock ? .
My experiences have been Very positive when using the SLP pipe setup on my both my PRO and Axis sleds. The throttle response has been greatly improved on the AXIS and to me that says something as most Axis owners Love the throttle responce in stock form
Have increased the weight of the clutch weights so to me the pipe is increasing the efficiency of the engine (HP )
I am fortunate to be able to compair my piped sled with stock sleds and see and feel the differance between the two .
In my world the SLP piped sled has a performance edge over stock sleds.
On a side note the SLP setup lowers the weight of the sled and the silencer is nice and quiet
Thats odd that the SLP pipe system did not perform any better then stock ? .
My experiences have been Very positive when using the SLP pipe setup on my both my PRO and Axis sleds. The throttle response has been greatly improved on the AXIS and to me that says something as most Axis owners Love the throttle responce in stock form
Have increased the weight of the clutch weights so to me the pipe is increasing the efficiency of the engine (HP )
I am fortunate to be able to compair my piped sled with stock sleds and see and feel the differance between the two .
In my world the SLP piped sled has a performance edge over stock sleds.
On a side note the SLP setup lowers the weight of the sled and the silencer is nice and quiet
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We stand by the performance that we quote and show. Obviously in the field, snow conditions will affect the performance differences that you will see. What we show on video is the typical improvement that we have seen. In a harder load condition, you will see more increase (ie: pointed up a bad nasty hill working the guts out of it). Now, with that said, there are several items that can affect performance. The most common are clutching, belt deflection, spark plugs and exhaust seal. Most of what I am addressing here applies to stock and modified sleds, but the more you modify, the more important they each become.
Clutching: The SLP pipe on the Ski-Doo E-tec 800 needs to be loaded aggressively by means of clutching to bring the internal pipe temperature up quickly in order to consistently deliver the horsepower we quote. We have spent a lot of time in the field testing to provide you with clutching specs that do this. However, I know that some of you may want to do your own clutching tailored more specifically to yourself, your sled and environment, and that is okay as long as you do so in a way that loads the engine aggressively especially out of the hole. Why this is important is the sound wave inside the pipe travels at a different speed depending on the internal temperature of the pipe. We design our pipes to work best when “heat soaked” and that is why it is so important to load it heavily. Also, we have found best peak performance between 7900 and 8000 rpm, so target this rpm for wide open throttle.
Belt Deflection: The Ski-Doo is pretty sensitive to belt deflection and we recommend checking and adjusting it regularly (I inspect it every other ride). I like the belt to be as tight as possible without squealing at an idle as this gives best performance and top speed. This is about 1 ¼” of deflection. Also, belt condition is a factor. We find that after approximately 500 miles (hard mountain miles), the belt starts losing performance from all the heat cycles it has been put through and because it has narrowed up somewhat (obviously the number of miles that this will happen in depends on how hard you ride). If your belt has some miles on it, try a new one. The performance you gain will be quite substantial.
Spark Plugs: The Ski-Doo is tougher on plugs than other engines. We see that the plugs may need to be changed around 2000 miles (again this is relative to how hard the sled is ridden). We recommend you inspect the plug to cap connection for carbon buildup (the black soot that builds up there). Contact cleaner can be used to clean it up. Also, pull the plugs and inspect the electrode. When we see the electrode start to erode and the gap increase, it is time to change the plugs. The symptom I have seen in the field is when picking through the trees, I am typically blipping the throttle. When an opportunity arises to stab the throttle hard, the sled will bog or hesitate (it sometimes almost sounds like a cough). Changing the plugs and/or cleaning the cap to plug connection will almost always take care of this problem.
Exhaust Seal: The Ski-Doo is sensitive to the exhaust joints all being sealed well because of the pop-off valve in the intake. This pop-off valve is a vacuum operated valve that sits directly above the engine. Its function is to open when the outside intake vents begin to plug in deep snow. This keeps the engine running rather than bogging from lack of air. The issue becomes when there is an exhaust leak. Again, typically this happens when running in deep snow as the pressure in the exhaust increases because the snow is trying to seal off the exhaust outlet on the belly pan. When this happens, the exhaust leak pours exhaust into the under hood area where it is ingested into the airbox via the pop-off valve. Since there is no oxygen in the exhaust gasses, the sled goes rich and bogs. We recommend periodically inspecting all exhaust joints to insure a good seal (y-pipe to cylinder, y-pipe to pipe, pipe to silencer and silencer to belly pan, exhaust springs should be inspected as well as sometimes you will find a loose or broken one). The SLP silencer has a white fiber seal between the silencer outlet and belly pan outlet. If this seal is worn or missing, it must be replaced.
I hope that these suggestions will help you realize the horsepower and performance your sleds are capable of. If you have some specific problems with SLP products, please contact us as we pride ourselves in making sure every SLP product performs as we advertise.
Thank You,
Jerry Mathews
Starting Line Products
(208)529-0244
Clutching: The SLP pipe on the Ski-Doo E-tec 800 needs to be loaded aggressively by means of clutching to bring the internal pipe temperature up quickly in order to consistently deliver the horsepower we quote. We have spent a lot of time in the field testing to provide you with clutching specs that do this. However, I know that some of you may want to do your own clutching tailored more specifically to yourself, your sled and environment, and that is okay as long as you do so in a way that loads the engine aggressively especially out of the hole. Why this is important is the sound wave inside the pipe travels at a different speed depending on the internal temperature of the pipe. We design our pipes to work best when “heat soaked” and that is why it is so important to load it heavily. Also, we have found best peak performance between 7900 and 8000 rpm, so target this rpm for wide open throttle.
Belt Deflection: The Ski-Doo is pretty sensitive to belt deflection and we recommend checking and adjusting it regularly (I inspect it every other ride). I like the belt to be as tight as possible without squealing at an idle as this gives best performance and top speed. This is about 1 ¼” of deflection. Also, belt condition is a factor. We find that after approximately 500 miles (hard mountain miles), the belt starts losing performance from all the heat cycles it has been put through and because it has narrowed up somewhat (obviously the number of miles that this will happen in depends on how hard you ride). If your belt has some miles on it, try a new one. The performance you gain will be quite substantial.
Spark Plugs: The Ski-Doo is tougher on plugs than other engines. We see that the plugs may need to be changed around 2000 miles (again this is relative to how hard the sled is ridden). We recommend you inspect the plug to cap connection for carbon buildup (the black soot that builds up there). Contact cleaner can be used to clean it up. Also, pull the plugs and inspect the electrode. When we see the electrode start to erode and the gap increase, it is time to change the plugs. The symptom I have seen in the field is when picking through the trees, I am typically blipping the throttle. When an opportunity arises to stab the throttle hard, the sled will bog or hesitate (it sometimes almost sounds like a cough). Changing the plugs and/or cleaning the cap to plug connection will almost always take care of this problem.
Exhaust Seal: The Ski-Doo is sensitive to the exhaust joints all being sealed well because of the pop-off valve in the intake. This pop-off valve is a vacuum operated valve that sits directly above the engine. Its function is to open when the outside intake vents begin to plug in deep snow. This keeps the engine running rather than bogging from lack of air. The issue becomes when there is an exhaust leak. Again, typically this happens when running in deep snow as the pressure in the exhaust increases because the snow is trying to seal off the exhaust outlet on the belly pan. When this happens, the exhaust leak pours exhaust into the under hood area where it is ingested into the airbox via the pop-off valve. Since there is no oxygen in the exhaust gasses, the sled goes rich and bogs. We recommend periodically inspecting all exhaust joints to insure a good seal (y-pipe to cylinder, y-pipe to pipe, pipe to silencer and silencer to belly pan, exhaust springs should be inspected as well as sometimes you will find a loose or broken one). The SLP silencer has a white fiber seal between the silencer outlet and belly pan outlet. If this seal is worn or missing, it must be replaced.
I hope that these suggestions will help you realize the horsepower and performance your sleds are capable of. If you have some specific problems with SLP products, please contact us as we pride ourselves in making sure every SLP product performs as we advertise.
Thank You,
Jerry Mathews
Starting Line Products
(208)529-0244
C
I have been running the SLP Y pipe, pipe and can for 3 seasons now on my 2014 xm 154". Noticeable difference for me. It pulls waaay harder at 7k rpm. I even went back to stock (trying to find more bottom end) then right back to SLP. Everytime i noticed a big difference. For me..definitely worth it! I have always ran SLPs clutching when installing the kit. I ended up with Roosterbuilt in an effort to find more low end. Both setups work good for me at 7-10k ft.
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I have always been a fan of SLP products but have seen mixed results with their etec pipe/silencer. Do it for the weight loss and if you get any noticeable power gains, consider it a bonus.
Have seen a few etecs that lost 4-500 rpm with their pipe...put stock pipe back on and RPM is back. Seems hit and miss but I would not pin that on SLP as much as how finicky the etec can be with exhaust changes.
Have seen a few etecs that lost 4-500 rpm with their pipe...put stock pipe back on and RPM is back. Seems hit and miss but I would not pin that on SLP as much as how finicky the etec can be with exhaust changes.
