Slotting your engine mounts ?'s

[odoggak]

Slotting my engine mounts on an 08 D7. Looking to hear from someone who has done this. I have read the tips in the forum, but a little confused on a few things. So, are you slotting the holes where the engine bolts to the aluminum mount plates or are you slotting the slots where the aluminum mount plate bolts to your chassis? Hope that makes sense. Also, which way are you slotting them? Forward and aft, the length of your sled or slotting side to side?
Thanks

 

[Kraven]

ENGINE ALIGNMENT

Slotting my engine mounts on an 08 D7. Looking to hear from someone who has done this. I have read the tips in the forum, but a little confused on a few things. So, are you slotting the holes where the engine bolts to the aluminum mount plates or are you slotting the slots where the aluminum mount plate bolts to your chassis? Hope that makes sense. Also, which way are you slotting them? Forward and aft, the length of your sled or slotting side to side?
Thanks

On the bold, CORRECT!

Slotting them on the MAG side ONLY going FORWARD, (the length of the sled) IF AND ONLY IF there's an EXCESSIVE air gap at the rear of the secondary with the SLP style of alignment bar (per attached pics )

Check the air gap at the rear of the secondary before anything. SLP recommends 0-.020" with SLP's push arm, .020" to .040" with out a push arm

On (3) different 2007 DRAGON 700's in our group, 2 needed slotting one was close enough.

 

[odoggak]

I have been using the team clutch tool and had a considerable air gad using that. Last year a adjusted it the best I could and it did help the life of my belts, but would like it spot on. Do you think the Team Tool is ok?

 

[Kraven]

I have been using the team clutch tool and had a considerable air gad using that. Last year a adjusted it the best I could and it did help the life of my belts, but would like it spot on. Do you think the Team Tool is ok?

The TEAM tool is a little different in that it is held tight to the secondary and with vernier calipers you measure to the edges of the primary, which, I.M.O. makes it a P.I.T.A. , but I suppose it would still work.

Youmay want to place a straight edge (Drywall T-Square, carpenter's level, etc.) up against that tool and measure to make sure that it's straight. MH posted on here that he had a couple of SLP tools that were "off'

Post a pic of your alignment bar in place on your sled with he measurements

 

[odoggak]

On more thing Kraven, are you able to adjust the engine bolts with everything hooked up and bolted down? Just looks a little bit tight under there?? Thanks for your help.

 

[Kraven]

On more thing Kraven, are you able to adjust the engine bolts with everything hooked up and bolted down? Just looks a little bit tight under there?? Thanks for your help.

Do you mean the bolts under the engine?

If so, No you can't get at them when it's bolted down.

Here' how I do it:

If you use the SLP style tool and measure the EXACT air gap at the REAR of the secondary, let's say .140" ,
slot the holes slightly less than double that air gap amount

.140" x 2 = .280"

Slot both holes on the mag side going forward .250" and you'll be real close on your first try.

To re-adjust, you'll need to remove and re-do.

We did one 2007 DRAGON 700 leaving the engine in, ALL hoses, wires, fuel lines, EVERYTHING hooked up. Took 2 1/2 hours start to finish, not rushing.

Removed the pipe and 4 engine mounts, jacked up the engine and propped wood blocks under it, it was A P.I.T.A. but we were able to remove the MAG SIDE engine bracket, slot it and replace it.

Remember, when tightening the engine bracket, push the MAG SIDE bracket towards the REAR of the sled before tightening the engine bolts.

Hope this helps, get the SLP / or H.P.E. style tool, (DO NOT USE the POLARIS tool as it has .070" to .075" of "kick" built into it) post a pic, any other ?? be glad to help you out

 

[odoggak]

Now you are doing this to correct your offset right? When I use my alignment tool it shows and 1/8" gap at the rear of the secondary measuring off the tool and at the front of the secondary touching or measuring within spec. Team says bar should be flush across the secondary or within .030. Is this what you were dealing with? As far as parallelism, my clutches were good

 

[Kraven]

Now you are doing this to correct your offset right? When I use my alignment tool it shows and 1/8" gap at the rear of the secondary measuring off the tool and at the front of the secondary touching or measuring within spec. Team says bar should be flush across the secondary or within .030. Is this what you were dealing with? As far as parallelism, my clutches were good

I don't follow you exactly.

IF you hold the TEAM tool tight to the secondary did you then measure with vernier calipers to the edges of the PRIMARY?

Can you post a pic?

My pic posted below is after I slotted the engine brackets to correct the alignment, previously it had a .180" gap at the rear of the secondary, keeping in mind that's the SLP tool by design with the "hooks" which is held parallel on the PRIMARY.

The TEAM tool you have is opposite of the SLP tool in that you hold the alignment bar tight to the secondary (so you're not looking for that "air gap" at the secondary) and you're looking for a discrepancy in measurements taken from the edge of the alignment bar to the edge of the primary

 

[odoggak]

Sorry don't have a pic. The team tool sits on the shaft of the primary and you take your measurement off the secondary

 

[Kraven]

Sorry don't have a pic. The team tool sits on the shaft of the primary and you take your measurement off the secondary

O.K.,(The TEAM tool I'm familiar with is different) then remove the shims from the secondary, set the tool in place and get the secondary to where it LIGHTLY touches the alignment bar at the front of the secondary.

Then at that point what is the air gap at the rear of the secondary? (Is that the .030" or is it the 1/8" you referenced earlier???)

 

[odoggak]

Yeah, 1/8" towards the rear of the sled. I need to slot my mag side so that I can pull that side of the engine towards the front of the sled. Think in your photo you had done the opposite

 

[Kraven]

Yeah, 1/8" towards the rear of the sled. I need to slot my mag side so that I can pull that side of the engine towards the front of the sled. Think in your photo you had done the opposite

In my photo, there's ZERO gap both FRONT + REAR as that's what's recommended per SLP with their PUSH arm installed.

It sounds like you have 1/8" air gap .125" at the rear of the secondary, correct??

If so, and you want to end up at .020" to .040" (assuming no MAG side push are

.125"- .030"(avg of .020" to .040" = .095"

.095" x 2 = .190"

I'd say slot the MAG side holes FORWARD approx .160" (a little more than 1/8")