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Slop free steering

D

Danbot

Well-known member
Being a guy who can't leave "well enough" alone, I tore into my 13 Pro looking to eliminate as much steering slop as I could, not that there's as much as a Cat telescopic post:face-icon-small-sho... but it's there.

I already had my side panels and hood off for other work, by removing the console I had full access to the steering post. There are 2 plastic push darts above the footwells and the gas cap retainer to remove... and the console will swing out of the way, hanging by the pull start cord.

You should now see the upper, and lower steering post bushing / supports. I started on the lower: Remove the 2 bolts, and steel strap. Remove the outer (bolt side) half of the bushing being careful not to drop the 2 aluminum spacer / bushings.
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I found that the plastic bushing / supports were not fully being clamped together because the aluminum spacer bushings bottom out in each plastic bushing. I carefully used the side of a bench grinder wheel to remove a very small amount off the end of each aluminum spacer. I did not measure, it doesn't take much. Now bolt everything back together and test fit. Do this slowly in small steps so you don't remove too much and end up with resistance in the steering. I left just barely perceptible amount of play.
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This can be easily repeated on both the upper and lower steering post bushings, as well as the upper bushing on the pitman arm shaft (they are all built the same way). I did not bother trying to get the lower pitman arm shaft bushing, but feel it's un-necessary at this time. I also applied some fresh lithium grease during assembly. My steering now feels completely slop free, and silky smooth!


warning!!! it is possible to shorten the aluminum collars too much, and end up with resistance or binding in the steering. Use your own judgement, and work in VERY small steps.
 
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Thanks! Great job on write up and pictures. This is what good forums are about. You get a A+ and a gold star!:face-icon-small-coo
 
Dan why didn't you say something ?I made some billet replacements for that POS last year when my buddy broke his. They're made like my rider select delete kits. ( same materials and basic design on the bushing)
 
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My bottom bushing broke when I lightly clipped a tree with bars fully turned to the left. Spun the bars right around and they were backwards (throttle on left side). Needs an aluminum bushing on something stronger in there.
 
Cool, ya I replaced my bushings on my 12 because of the lateral slop in the post since new... What was weird is that my 11 and 13s were tight but my 12 was sloppppy... I replaced them with new ones and reduced it significantly. But I'll have to give this a whirl.
 
I'm a huge fan of Polaris, but the sloppy steering has plagued them forever and IMO is unacceptable. I truly applaud all of the innovation in the Pro chassis, but like stated before this one, easily corrected flaw, makes the sled feel cheap right out of the box.
 
Great post Danbot! Did this last night and it really cleaned up the slop. Reassembled with Super Lube. Only required very little taken off the aluminum spacers/bushings. Love simple free mods that make the sled better!
 
I'm a huge fan of Polaris, but the sloppy steering has plagued them forever and IMO is unacceptable. I truly applaud all of the innovation in the Pro chassis, but like stated before this one, easily corrected flaw, makes the sled feel cheap right out of the box.

What's your take on the Cat steering then?
 
NOTE: Bench grinder wheels can explode from grinding aluminum! This is due to the conductivity of the aluminum and it's rate of thermal expansion. What the aluminum does is wedges itself in pores in the stone and as it heats up from more aluminum piling on top of it, it then expands and will crack the wheel in half and fragments will fly. If this has not happened yet to you consider yourself lucky and refrain from the practice. It is much safer to use a file or a belt or profile sander. Not to mention the wheel is now useless for normal grinding. It is also a bad practice to use the side of the wheel for grinding anything, the face is the only surface designed for grinding.

Not trying to knock the idea at all, just a few safety tips from thirty plus years of fabrication expierence. Sled on!
 
Another thing I saw happened to "Bagger's" sled is the bushing actually broke in half after smacking a small tree. It bent the flat piece of aluminum that retains the plastic. I would recommend replacing this piece of aluminum with something thicker or maybe a piece of angle or something. (eventhough I didn't do this to my sled, when doing all of my mods, lol) I like the idea of some stronger bushings, though. I believe Bagger now carries a spare bushing with him as well as the kitchen sink.
 
I was at an auction yesterday and looked at a 2012 Arctic Cat ProClimb M8 153. I could turn the bars around 1.00" in either direction before the skis started to move. I could not believe how sloppy the steering was after only one season. Other than that it was in pretty decent shape. It sold for $6050
 
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Another thing I saw happened to "Bagger's" sled is the bushing actually broke in half after smacking a small tree. It bent the flat piece of aluminum that retains the plastic. I would recommend replacing this piece of aluminum with something thicker or maybe a piece of angle or something. (eventhough I didn't do this to my sled, when doing all of my mods, lol) I like the idea of some stronger bushings, though. I believe Bagger now carries a spare bushing with him as well as the kitchen sink.

I like the fact that the upper bushing can break and metal strap bends. I know from personal experience how hard you have to hit the bars before anything happens. I would much rather replace a $12.00 bushing than have to buy and replace a bent steering post and or bars.
 
This "fix" works good for a very short period of time. Some one make billete aluminum blocks with drop in oilite bushings ASAP!!!!

Eric
 
Not officially a Pro, but I have the newer Assault front end in mine. The upper A-arm bushings allow a bit of play forward and backward on the pivot bolts. Anyone have a suggestion on whether to grind the center spacer, or add a thin shim between the bushing and the A-arm?

How about the slop in the ski bushing? Anyone add a grease zerk?
 
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