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Skid?

You need to burn out the loctite. Heat the bolts first with a LP or map gas torch, for a few minutes (it takes a little while). They'll come out then. Good luck
 
I think he's probably talking about trying to get the second out after the first because the inner sleeve just rotates. Work them out as close to the same rate on each bolt as you can. Once both only have a couple threads left they will come out...
 
Yep, that could be it... definitely had that problem too... my last wrestling match however was with a skid without the cross shafts.:face-icon-small-coo

I think he's probably talking about trying to get the second out after the first because the inner sleeve just rotates. Work them out as close to the same rate on each bolt as you can. Once both only have a couple threads left they will come out...
 
thanks that was my problem i could get one out but not the other so i will try the working them both out at the same time tomorrow night thanks again i will let you know if it works
 
As WyoPro says, work them at the same rate. Sometimes you have to tighten one again to get the other loose. Use an impact wrench if you have one. Have a beer or two, it feels less painful.
 
Use an impact wrench. It will spin the bolts faster than the shaft and allow them to come out. When you put them back in, do not use the impact though!
 
Ya what Kestrel said, use an impact to remove, but don't use to tighten! You will cross thread it faster than you think. If you don't have an impact, loosen one side almost all the way out, then tighten back up snug but just tight enought loosen the other side and do the same there. Once you loosened up the locktite it will go easier.

Also another pointer, to remove skid out of the track with ease, have the sled on its side and then rotate the rear of the track/skid out of the tunnel towards you until most of the skid is out of the tunnel, then push the skid forward toward the drivers and then lift from the rear and pull out. Works a lot better than wrestling with getting the rear idlers past the track knobs. Hope this helps ya out.
 
I have done this in the past

1. Remove one bolt
2. Install a longer bolt with a jam nut, tighten down the jam nut
3. Remove the opposite side
4. Back off the jam nut
5. Remove the longer bolt
 
Nice approach...

I have done this in the past

1. Remove one bolt
2. Install a longer bolt with a jam nut, tighten down the jam nut
3. Remove the opposite side
4. Back off the jam nut
5. Remove the longer bolt
 
tfrick that is not an approach...that is THE approach! Good job! It's a lot easier with impact tools once you've broken the factory bond the first time. Things really get easy about the twentieth time you remove a suspension!:face-icon-small-hap

I'm pretty sure he was referring to suspension parts outside the chassis but just in case please know this:

Do not under any circumstances heat your suspension mounting bolts up with a torch especially while in the PRO chassis. The release temp on that compound is higher and a longer duration than both the 406 lords adhesive plus changes the molecular structure of the alloy around the mount location. There are conclusive tests performed by the US Navy on how alloy/metals react to temperature/heat/cold, duration, and vibration that prove the potential results of intense heat to a high vibration/load bearing area changes the structural performance of the alloys and this can be lead to a catastrophic failure.
 
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