Ski pressure

[Beeline]

Axys with 18 hours. I wanted to ride it with no mods to get used to it prior to deciding what changes I should make. I feel the skis are to light and need added pressure. How should I make added pressure to the skis ?

 

[wisboy25]

Loosen front track shock and stiffen the rear one

 

[AKSnowShredder]

Like Wisboy said, loosen the front track shock. Tighten the ski shocks a little too. Made a world of difference on my sled.

 

[FatDogX]

What they said......

Only thing to add would be to only do one at a time and start with the front track shock and remember where your "zero" or start point is. Try 3/4 to a turn at a time and go from there.

 

[SRXSRULE]

Front track shock is where all the magic happens Small adjustments there will change the whole balance of the sled. Eric

 

[JJ_0909]

I'd agree with the FTS being very touchy. Funny thing is the manual is more "grey" about where this should be.

I'd like more people to use scales to tell me the amount of weight on their skis - especially those with a "dialed" sled.

Mine is pretty good, but being boosted and 155, ski lift is always a problem, even with a coupler.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

It's a fine line -

Too tight: sled will feel a lot more nimble because you will get a lot more weight transfer. Downside is the tighter you go, the less ski pressure you have for the trails so steering is too light. I have had mine so tight that I could ride straight down the trail with my skis turned 90 degrees. Biggest downside is the tighter you go, the more your sled will trench.

Too loose: sled will have great steering on the trail, but will be a lot less nimble to ride in the trees. With less transfer, it is more difficult to initiate that downhill sidehill maneuver to get back up on top of the ridge. It will jump up on the snow better though (less trenching).

 

[Jaynelson]

The rear track spring has specs for your weight in the manual. Set that one first, then fine tune with the front track spring. Then you can mess with the ski shocks. Like said above...do one at a time and get a feel for it.

 

[Jaynelson]

It's a fine line -

Too loose: sled will feel a lot more nimble because you will get a lot more weight transfer. Downside is the looser you go, the less ski pressure you have for the trails so steering is too light. I have had mine so loose that I could ride straight down the trail with my skis turned 90 degrees. Biggest downside is the looser you go, the more your sled will trench.

Too tight: sled will have great steering on the trail, but will be a lot less nimble to ride in the trees. With less transfer, it is more difficult to initiate that downhill sidehill maneuver to get back up on top of the ridge. It will jump up on the snow better though (less trenching).

That is great, but you are backwards on the loose and tight

 

[SRXSRULE]

I'd agree with the FTS being very touchy. Funny thing is the manual is more "grey" about where this should be.

I'd like more people to use scales to tell me the amount of weight on their skis - especially those with a "dialed" sled.

Mine is pretty good, but being boosted and 155, ski lift is always a problem, even with a coupler.

I have numbers for you, this is using 4 scales, keeping the sled level, pad under each ski, then a pad under the FTS, and a pad at the rear scissor mount. I place 2x4's on edge so the track lugs are out of the picture.

These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position.

LF 137 Rf 127

fts 205

rts 195


You will notice that everything changes when you get on the sled, the front track shock will only have 5-10lb on it when your off the sled.

You will likely need to increase your rear track shock for boost. Eric

 

[JJ_0909]

I have numbers for you, this is using 4 scales, keeping the sled level, pad under each ski, then a pad under the FTS, and a pad at the rear scissor mount. I place 2x4's on edge so the track lugs are out of the picture.

These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position.

LF 137 Rf 127

fts 205

rts 195


You will notice that everything changes when you get on the sled, the front track shock will only have 5-10lb on it when your off the sled.

You will likely need to increase your rear track shock for boost. Eric

what do you weigh?

 

[SRXSRULE]

what do you weigh?

Dont read so fast

"These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position."

Rider weight isnt really that important, the key is that the 2 rear shock numbers are very close to each other, in your situation I would start out with them dead even. I usually set mine up with the front track shock 10-15 lbs heavier, but with boost that would be too much ski lift. Eric

 

[JJ_0909]

Dont read so fast

"These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position."

Rider weight isnt really that important, the key is that the 2 rear shock numbers are very close to each other, in your situation I would start out with them dead even. I usually set mine up with the front track shock 10-15 lbs heavier, but with boost that would be too much ski lift. Eric

doh.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

That is great, but you are backwards on the loose and tight

Thanks for pointing that out - fixed it in the my original post

 

[snobyrd]

I have numbers for you, this is using 4 scales, keeping the sled level, pad under each ski, then a pad under the FTS, and a pad at the rear scissor mount. I place 2x4's on edge so the track lugs are out of the picture.

These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position.

LF 137 Rf 127

fts 205

rts 195


You will notice that everything changes when you get on the sled, the front track shock will only have 5-10lb on it when your off the sled.

You will likely need to increase your rear track shock for boost. Eric

:face-icon-small-fr

Eric,are these nombers from factory spring settings or did u change them to get these numbers, im 160 naked, so im prob 180sh with gear, if it not stock setting pls post your spring lengths.
Tks
Jwff

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I have numbers for you, this is using 4 scales, keeping the sled level, pad under each ski, then a pad under the FTS, and a pad at the rear scissor mount. I place 2x4's on edge so the track lugs are out of the picture.

These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position.

LF 137 Rf 127

fts 205

rts 195


You will notice that everything changes when you get on the sled, the front track shock will only have 5-10lb on it when your off the sled.

You will likely need to increase your rear track shock for boost. Eric

I set mine very close to the same.
Very wheelie happy.
Without boost.
Add the arc and its perfect.
^^^^^ the above numbers are fun.

 

[Falcon1772]

I have numbers for you, this is using 4 scales, keeping the sled level, pad under each ski, then a pad under the FTS, and a pad at the rear scissor mount. I place 2x4's on edge so the track lugs are out of the picture.

These numbers are also with me (180lb) standing on the sled, in a neutral riding position.

LF 137 Rf 127

fts 205

rts 195


You will notice that everything changes when you get on the sled, the front track shock will only have 5-10lb on it when your off the sled.

You will likely need to increase your rear track shock for boost. Eric

Whats the thread measurements on each of the shocks? I don't have 4 scales to check it the way you did it but I'd like to try out your setup

 

[SRXSRULE]

Not stock settings, also running raptor triple rate springs. Dont know if my springs lengths will jive with oem springs. Eric

 

[Falcon1772]

oh ok. I've been really wanting to get a set of those for mine, recently lost my job tho so gotta wait till the cash is flowing again.

 

[Beeline]

Thank you everyone. I'll adjust the rear first and ride.