simple test for you to do

[turboal]

we have been checking out the alignment on the xp chassi's . we use a wood square and lay it on the side of the secondery sheave . with this in place you can sight down the square and see how far out of parrell the clutches may be on your sled .
NOTE put a chair behind you so that whe you see how far off it may be that the ensueing fall doest hurt you .

makes us wonder if the aftermarket brace should become stock.
cant tell if it is the front ski on that side that is driving the chassi back or the top tower moveing ????
someting is moveing and this is also pointing to why we are seeing the type of wear we are seeing in the spring tower caps .the tower cap bushing is wearing in a cone shape . wide at the out side extremity and narrower on the spring side of the bushing.

 

[Sledsniper]

do you have any pics?

 

[SHERMAN]

if turbo al is seeing this everyone should take a second look.

 

[winter brew]

That bushing may also wear in this manner because the inner bushing of the movable sheave has alot of clearance....this would also allow that outer/movable sheave to "wobble" a bit as it rotates and show this wear pattern on the spring cap bushing. I havn't seen it as a problem, just replace the cap when it shows alot of wear and keep riding.

 

[Xrider]

with this in place you can sight down the square and see how far out of parrell the clutches may be on your sled

Aren't they suppose to be that way while the engine is off or idleing to compensate for the movement of the engine when throttle is applied?

 

[Trashy]

Aren't they suppose to be that way while the engine is off or idleing to compensate for the movement of the engine when throttle is applied?

Not sure I am buying that theory... if that were the case then what would you do on a high horsepower turbo sled??? And what is happening to your belt (and clutch temps) when you are not at WOT?
That said, anyone having any luck with aftermarket belts (other than BRP) on their XP's?

 

[dicey]

we have been checking out the alignment on the xp chassi's . we use a wood square and lay it on the side of the secondery sheave . with this in place you can sight down the square and see how far out of parrell the clutches may be on your sled .
NOTE put a chair behind you so that whe you see how far off it may be that the ensueing fall doest hurt you .

makes us wonder if the aftermarket brace should become stock.
cant tell if it is the front ski on that side that is driving the chassi back or the top tower moveing ????
someting is moveing and this is also pointing to why we are seeing the type of wear we are seeing in the spring tower caps .the tower cap bushing is wearing in a cone shape . wide at the out side extremity and narrower on the spring side of the bushing.

so it sounds like your saying that the alignment is moving ,as in you check it make sure it's correct, go for a ride check it again and its out ,am i getting this right?

 

[dicey]

ttt

 

[Teth-Air]

It almost sounds like he is measuring when the track is spinning at WOTas this is when you would see movement. I don't know how you would get the straight edge near those spinning clutches?

 

[snap show]

Ttt

 

[winter brew]

Just align them reasonably close....and yes, there is supposed to be some clockwise twist on the engine to allow for the counterclockwise twist created when the clutches are under a load. This is to bring them closer to parallel when in operation. If the alignment is anywhere NEAR close and you have a good setup that doesn't create too much heat, the belts will last a long time.
There are some things that can just be over analyzed

 

[ReTodd]

I agree with Al....if you are having belt trouble you NEED to check your alignment. Take your belt off, start your sled, rev her up a few times and you will see that yes, the motor does twist. That is why BRP recommends 1.5mm of clockwise twist to the motor (not sure if that is the amount for a XP).

I was getting racing stripes on one side of my primary and kept pulling cord on that same side so I finally measured mine on my 07' 800R, it was closer to 4.5mm! I pulled the primary, pulled the PTO motor mounts, dremelled the holes back a bit, then put the bolts back in, used a lever to help push the motor back while I torqued the motor mounts down tight. Been out a number of times now and my primary now stays clean and it is running better than ever and my belts look great.

Unfortunately, most people (including BRP) use washers to shim the secondary out and although I have a floating secondary, if you think through the geometry of a mis-aligned clutch you will realize that it doesn't matter how far out your secondary is, you are still dealing with two non-parallel planes which has to be very hard on belts.

 

[turboal]

doing it with the sled sitting there . the engine is out of align , has moved in and running would make it worse for parallel .
had a customer in this am that actually broke his aftermarket brace . i think it shows the load between these two points.
this guy was haveing belt issues before the brace and gone with it and back when the brace was broken.

 

[Trashy]

Whose brace was he using? And whose do you recommend?

 

[REV4ARUSH]

Here is the link to a good write up on why you need a clutch tower brace. Read post number 13 here: http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=245863

 

[theUltamateTBM]

I work at a ski doo dealer and the way we allign clutches on customer sleds is with a 1/4 in piece of squar stock squeezed between the secondary then you measure from top back of primary and bottom front of primare and try to get 2mm greater in front the measurement I like to see is 40mm front and 38 back this seems to be working real well

 

[Insaneboltrounder/sjohns]

anyone else have good alignment ideas?

 

[doorandt]

you don''t need 1/4 square stock. just use the free tool that skidoo gave you. pull the stupid sway bar and use the bar (with out the links on it) to check your alignment. thanks skidoo

 

[Red-eye]

I took the top gear off the cain case but I would guess you could lift the rear of the sled and do it. Put the belt on and rotate the driven and see if your belt is rubbing on the back shiv of the primary. I move the eng over until the belt was .020 off of the primary. ( like OLav Aaen's Theory )Then I used the 3/8 bar in the driven procedure with 40mm offseton the bottom and 39mm on the top ( for eng movement ). Reduced my clutch temps dramatically.

Food for thought.....Ran the sled on a stand for ten minutes, up and down in speeds, When I stopped the sled the primary was cool the secondary was warm??????????

 

[Trashy]

Any of you ever check the clutch temps with an IR temp gun? Kept a close eye on two similar XP's yesterday, the secondary didn't seem to heat up much, the primary got warmer; around 70ºC in the center and substantially cooler towards the outer edges of the primary (around 20ºC) For what its worth the center of the primary actually gets quite warm (from thermally transfered engine heat) even if you run it a while without a belt on. Oh, and my belt is doing just fine, ignore the sig line joke