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Silencers that work with SLP's Pro-RMK Pipe

The Bob

Well-known member
Premium Member
Does anyone have any brand of silencers that will work with the SLP pipe? Or does the SLP silencer (13+) that comes with the SLP pipe work with the TKI Belt Drive? Not apposed to SLP's can but have heard it doesn't fit with the TKI Belt Drive (tensioner). Big bore kit I am running recommends the SLP pipe, so I am trying to figure out what to do.
 
SLP used to make their pipes in two configurations. 1. One that only fit their muffler and is the style of the pipe/can combo, and (2) their pipe with the stock style flange on it that basically would fit everything else. I could never understand why SLP did that, using a proprietary coupling when you bought their pipe/can combo.

Is this still the case? Can you order an SLP pipe for a "stock" can?
 
I think I mentioned it before Bob, but you can dent (ball peen and pretend to be English for a couple of min.) that can in the right spot to give you room for a custom bent wrench to adj the belt. That's for a C3 though.

Since your buildin' though,,, I'd suggest to find a nice tight (size wise) quiet can (like that double core Aaen, plus a 2+ lb weight loss) and get rid of the Canadian Tire auto muffler copy SLP uses. It works but is huge (in size and heat sink) and real close to the belt, brake, bearing, etc.

It is pretty easy. You need a can, two 180 mandrel bent tube sections of the next size up from stock ID and a bit of sheet metal. Take the smaller Aaen can (any 800 model will do) and buck off the entry tube at the body. Put it down into the exit hole in the belly and lean it forward about 25 degrees (side benefit is an exit that can't be clogged in the deep).

Then make a spring mount (2 pieces of motorcycle chain and a large head rivet) for the bottom front, one more piece of motorcycle chain (the side plates) for the top front spring mount and bent 2 90's out of sheet metal to fit the rubber mount. Tack everything into place and attach springs.

Then it's just a matter of cutting the mandrel bends to fit, tying the two ends together (use the original donut holder from the SLP can if you can't squish a new one yourself, just buff off the ceramic).
A couple of pie cuts on the outside of the first bend really helps line things up.

Really helps when things are opened up in that area. Give the belt and stuff there a chance to "breathe" something fresh as it spins around. Very noticeable temp difference when working the trees at all times of the season.
 
I'm running a Diamond S can on.my Carl's/Indy Dan long rod 900
It's on a '13 Pro with the QD drive.
 
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