What do you guys have your box running at? I would share mine but over the summer it lost the memory so back to square one.
Silber ETEC Dobeck box number sharing
- Thread starter seanc
- Start date
I like the thread, wish some people would post some settings. I'm still on the base line settings recommended on web site.only have one ride on it so far but have 3 day ride planned starting tomorrow.
Should also add boost level and elevation
T
Turbo11T
Well-known member
2014 XM 154
6-7PSI
External wastegate kit
DJ clutching ramps, weights, springs, helix, etc. Clicker 3. Geared 22/49
10000feet
60/40 91/100ll
Green 5.5
Yellow 1
Red 1.5
Grn/Blue 5.5
Yw/Blue 7
Red/Blue 6
Comments: Sled runs good in and out of the throttle. This is the first time out on this sled. Was impressed. I believe clutching is just as big as fueling. Bottom end just off engagement sounded gurgly but driveability was good. Watch out when the turbo spools though. My confidence level went up in boosted 2 strokes about 10 fold this weekend. Not perfect but def not going to screw me in a technical situation. Would I like it to run cleaner to my ear. Yep would be nice but like I said driveability was good.
2015 XM 174T3
5-6 psi
Internal Wastegate Kit
Silber Clutching Team 415T ramps, 17.8 gram pins, 1mm Larger rollers, 200/320 primary 44/47 helix, xp purple sec spring. Clicker 2
Geared 19/49
60/40 91/100LL
10000 feet.
Green 4
Yellow 1
Red 1.5
Grn/Blue 5.5
Yw/Blue 7
Red/Blue 6
Comments: Sled needs to be geared up. right now is geared for 72 MPH. Going to gear up 8 mph to 21/49. Also going to add a couple grams back in the clutch to run 7 lbs and get to clicker 3. Had to turn boost down to stay off rev limter. Thinking higher gearing will produce a load on the engine that it spools the turbo faster. Overall great ridability on this sled as well. Should note rider is 6' 10" 320 lbs RTR.
Thoughts: Fueling is important. But clutching is equally important. I believe that my happiness from my 154 silber kit the first time out was based on the fact that I talked with DJ about my wants for clutching and my need to clutch around the fueling issues I can't address in the low rpms from the stock ETEC fueling.
Keep your sled off the Rev limiter at all costs and don't run your sled on the hairy edge of the octane numbers for boost.
6-7PSI
External wastegate kit
DJ clutching ramps, weights, springs, helix, etc. Clicker 3. Geared 22/49
10000feet
60/40 91/100ll
Green 5.5
Yellow 1
Red 1.5
Grn/Blue 5.5
Yw/Blue 7
Red/Blue 6
Comments: Sled runs good in and out of the throttle. This is the first time out on this sled. Was impressed. I believe clutching is just as big as fueling. Bottom end just off engagement sounded gurgly but driveability was good. Watch out when the turbo spools though. My confidence level went up in boosted 2 strokes about 10 fold this weekend. Not perfect but def not going to screw me in a technical situation. Would I like it to run cleaner to my ear. Yep would be nice but like I said driveability was good.
2015 XM 174T3
5-6 psi
Internal Wastegate Kit
Silber Clutching Team 415T ramps, 17.8 gram pins, 1mm Larger rollers, 200/320 primary 44/47 helix, xp purple sec spring. Clicker 2
Geared 19/49
60/40 91/100LL
10000 feet.
Green 4
Yellow 1
Red 1.5
Grn/Blue 5.5
Yw/Blue 7
Red/Blue 6
Comments: Sled needs to be geared up. right now is geared for 72 MPH. Going to gear up 8 mph to 21/49. Also going to add a couple grams back in the clutch to run 7 lbs and get to clicker 3. Had to turn boost down to stay off rev limter. Thinking higher gearing will produce a load on the engine that it spools the turbo faster. Overall great ridability on this sled as well. Should note rider is 6' 10" 320 lbs RTR.
Thoughts: Fueling is important. But clutching is equally important. I believe that my happiness from my 154 silber kit the first time out was based on the fact that I talked with DJ about my wants for clutching and my need to clutch around the fueling issues I can't address in the low rpms from the stock ETEC fueling.
Keep your sled off the Rev limiter at all costs and don't run your sled on the hairy edge of the octane numbers for boost.
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Looks like the same settings as base line on the web sight. I experienced a dead spot just prio
Just prior to the high boost kicking on. Turned the red up to 2.5. Riding 7-10k at 7lb
T
Turbo11T
Well-known member
Each sled can be a little different. Also difference in fuels used change torque. Differences in clutching can make differences in fueling as well. This was advice that DJ gave me. Stay consistent in mixing of fuel as different octane levels will make more or less torque at a given rpm with differences in octane.
Did turning up red take away your dead spot?
Did turning up red take away your dead spot?
Turning up red helped as it was a lean spot going from yellow into full boost. If I get on and off throttle enough at that certain spot I can get it
Well after Justin Silber, Boston and silber facebook not responding to messages the kit came off and will be for sale.
I apologize for our delay in response but I thought we were helping you? Are you Sean Connell?
The problem you are describing sounds like a broken reed. Did you try calling me? I do my best to answer but am always on the phone and sometimes forget to go through all the voicemails. I respect your decision to sell the kit but think you would be better off to stick it out and get to the root cause of the problem.
I know sometime we give general guidance because its impossible to diagnose a problem over Facebook. I don't know exactly what your sled has going on or exactly what numbers should be in it. I can only explain the modes and how to adjust them as well as share the common problems we see. You sent me a pic of the tuning guide so I figured you had a handle on the tuning portion.
If you have my number give me a call. If not send me a PM and Ill get it to you.
The problem you are describing sounds like a broken reed. Did you try calling me? I do my best to answer but am always on the phone and sometimes forget to go through all the voicemails. I respect your decision to sell the kit but think you would be better off to stick it out and get to the root cause of the problem.
I know sometime we give general guidance because its impossible to diagnose a problem over Facebook. I don't know exactly what your sled has going on or exactly what numbers should be in it. I can only explain the modes and how to adjust them as well as share the common problems we see. You sent me a pic of the tuning guide so I figured you had a handle on the tuning portion.
If you have my number give me a call. If not send me a PM and Ill get it to you.
Not trying to jack your thread but How is everyone liking these silber kits I have heard good and bad about them! For the price and being not far from me In mn I'm really considering going with them! Anything more needed besides what's supplied in the kit also?
T
Turbo11T
Well-known member
clutching
On gearing up the 174",
why would you gear up to increase LOAD? ARE YOU SHIFTED OUT ALL THE WAY IN A STEEP / DEEP CLIMB TO WHERE YOU ARE RUNNING PAST 1/2" to 5/8" from the top of the primary = in overdrive?
If you're staying out of overdrive in the pull, adjust your ramps / profile or maybe spring to match the motor personality. This is assuming you have your clutches dialed in in regard to heat / balanced heat.
Helix to match load on drivetrain( pull from engine, resistance from track ). Weight to match helix with shift force. Ramps / springs in primary, spring in driven to fine tune ALL to get balanced LOW heat = Wa La, go fast. Gearing to run where you want to run in the clutches. ( I'm assuming with a 174" you're not drag racing or lake racing!!) If you're running enough Hp and you're shifting out too far, then gear up, but be prepared to re-clutch as the load just went up on the clutches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Higher gears = more load on belt / clutches. Lower gears puts more load in the chaincase / belt drive.
On gearing up the 174",
why would you gear up to increase LOAD? ARE YOU SHIFTED OUT ALL THE WAY IN A STEEP / DEEP CLIMB TO WHERE YOU ARE RUNNING PAST 1/2" to 5/8" from the top of the primary = in overdrive?
If you're staying out of overdrive in the pull, adjust your ramps / profile or maybe spring to match the motor personality. This is assuming you have your clutches dialed in in regard to heat / balanced heat.
Helix to match load on drivetrain( pull from engine, resistance from track ). Weight to match helix with shift force. Ramps / springs in primary, spring in driven to fine tune ALL to get balanced LOW heat = Wa La, go fast. Gearing to run where you want to run in the clutches. ( I'm assuming with a 174" you're not drag racing or lake racing!!) If you're running enough Hp and you're shifting out too far, then gear up, but be prepared to re-clutch as the load just went up on the clutches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Higher gears = more load on belt / clutches. Lower gears puts more load in the chaincase / belt drive.
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T
Turbo11T
Well-known member
On gearing up the 174",
why would you gear up to increase LOAD? ARE YOU SHIFTED OUT ALL THE WAY IN A STEEP / DEEP CLIMB TO WHERE YOU ARE RUNNING PAST 1/2" to 5/8" from the top of the primary = in overdrive?
If you're staying out of overdrive in the pull, adjust your ramps / profile or maybe spring to match the motor personality. This is assuming you have your clutches dialed in in regard to heat / balanced heat.
Helix to match load on drivetrain( pull from engine, resistance from track ). Weight to match helix with shift force. Ramps / springs in primary, spring in driven to fine tune ALL to get balanced LOW heat = Wa La, go fast. Gearing to run where you want to run in the clutches. ( I'm assuming with a 174" you're not drag racing or lake racing!!) If you're running enough Hp and you're shifting out too far, then gear up, but be prepared to re-clutch as the load just went up on the clutches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Higher gears = more load on belt / clutches. Lower gears puts more load in the chaincase / belt drive.
We geared up to increase the load on the engine. The 174 is geared like a tractor in stock form.
Any advice on a low end bog? 2015 etec 800?
just installed testing it out on flatland 1500' Got a pretty good bog when starting out Almost gets a little lean on close to wot. Just curious if anyone has different numbers that base line that work. Thanks in advance
just installed testing it out on flatland 1500' Got a pretty good bog when starting out Almost gets a little lean on close to wot. Just curious if anyone has different numbers that base line that work. Thanks in advance
7 pounds of boost and running 110 fuel. ride the snowies mostly so 8000-10000ish elevation
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