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Silber clutching

P

powdersnobb

Free Member
I just installed my new silber on my 16 axys 800. It rips, but a couple things.

First, im getting det and going limp on wot pulls. Im running 3psi only at 11000 ft. 91 octane. Never had det before turbo. No leaks i can see. I will try with 100ll next week to see what's up.

Second thing. Primary engages at 4100 really hard. Tried 73g to 76g weights. Not much different engagement. Also takes a few seconds to disengage after letting off throttle. Can i use my stock spring? It was real smooth before. I cleaned the clutches thoroughly during intall.

Thanks
 
HellRaZoR004 said:
Make sure your belt deflection is right. Are you also running in ethanol mode?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes on ethanol mode. Im gonna rechck tb boots tomorrow to be sure no leaks.

Deflection is correct per the manual. I have also tried tighter and looser with no improvement. Im gonna pull apart tomorrow to make sure nothing is sticking.
 
As far as your Det goes your 91 octane probably is a 91 octane, I just went through the same thing. Start with a 50/50 mix of aviation fuel to your 91 and then start pulling a little bit of aviation fuel out at a time. I'm running 8lbs at 10,000 feet and roughly have 70% aviation to 30% 91 non-ethanol, I do not run it in ethanol mode, it makes the bottom and really slobbery. I was hitting Det before this and then my sled absolutely came to life, I was even running a 50/50 mix before this. As far as you're clutching goes a 165 starting spring with a heavy heal weight is going to have a somewhat hard engagement. Also shoot for .020 belt to sheeve clearance.
 
Last edited:
xmk1080 said:
As far as your Det goes your 91 octane probably is a 91 octane, I just went through the same thing. Start with a 50/50 mix of aviation fuel to your 91 and then start pulling a little bit of aviation fuel out at a time. I'm running 8lbs at 10,000 feet and roughly have 70% aviation to 30% 91 non-ethanol, I do not run it in ethanol mode, it makes the bottom and really slobbery. I was hitting Det before this and then my sled absolutely came to life, I was even running a 50/50 mix before this. As far as you're clutching goes a 165 starting spring with a heavy heal weight is going to have a somewhat hard engagement. Also shoot for .020 belt to sheeve clearance.
Click to expand...
Great info. Ill get me av gas tomorrow. So where should i go with clutching? Won't more weight make engagement smoother and at lower rpm? I know it will cut top end rpm down. What downside would there be to running stock primary spring?
 
Any other ideas on my clutching? I pulled apart. Rollers good. Weights freely moving. Bushings feel good and free. Spring is binding on something as there is paint chipped off. Another odd thing is that it seemed to feel worse as the day went on. I am going to try a new belt, but it's odd all this happened when installing the new spring and weights. Its sort of sketchy riding with this engagement and lagging disengagement. I like RPM to drop to idle fast when I release the throttle.
 
Use a Torrington bearing or delrin washers on both ends of the spring. File the sharp edges and the pointed end of the springs. Round them off. It won't hang up or dig into the washers. Slides around. The paint chipping is gonna happen as the spring compressed and released. It should sease once you do this.
Hard engagement. Check your belt to sheave clearance. 020-030. Pick a belt and stick with that brand. There are variances between Polaris, gates, ECT.
 
xpspenziv said:
Use a Torrington bearing or delrin washers on both ends of the spring. File the sharp edges and the pointed end of the springs. Round them off. It won't hang up or dig into the washers. Slides around. The paint chipping is gonna happen as the spring compressed and released. It should sease once you do this.
Hard engagement. Check your belt to sheave clearance. 020-030. Pick a belt and stick with that brand. There are variances between Polaris, gates, ECT.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Ill work on getting some washers and check sheve clearance
 
What weights do you have in there and are you switching?
Changing your weights will not change your engagement rpm. The initial number (psi) on your spring sets engagement. The lower the number the lower the engagement usually.

The banging or engaging real hard is the clearance in your primary belt to sheave. To much clearance.
What springs did they give you?
Almond primary?
Black Silver secondary?
Get a set of TRS wts and set up.
 
xpspenziv said:
What weights do you have in there and are you switching?
Changing your weights will not change your engagement rpm. The initial number (psi) on your spring sets engagement. The lower the number the lower the engagement usually.

The banging or engaging real hard is the clearance in your primary belt to sheave. To much clearance.
What springs did they give you?
Almond primary?
Black Silver secondary?
Get a set of TRS wts and set up.
Click to expand...
Yes, those are the springs they gave me. I have tried from 72 to 76 weights. On track stand, i was hitting 8300 rpm with about 74g on the scale. Im gonna move back to 76 and see if it helps det and lower my upper rpm as well. Ill have to check sheave clearance. Im gonna try a new belt first. Ill report findings.
 
I had similar issues. Silber's clutching is worthless. You'll just be going in circles without ever really getting it dialed in. The solution is to have TRS set you up with clutching and re-shim your primary. I run 5 lbs at 6k feet, 91 pump gas, non-ethanol mode. It rips hard and belt runs cool all day long.
 
The profile and how the wts are weighted and tucked make a big difference. The spring selection and helix all have to coincide with one another. If you read the AAEN Book on clutching you will see heavy spring and steep helix is not efficient. People been doing it for yrs. The springs are fighting the helix angle and the wts all the time. Just my .02..
 
how many miles are on this 16 axys , motor mounts might be bad, changing belt deflection , and start with a new belt for a new turbo set up . just my thoughts.
 
xpspenziv said:
The profile and how the wts are weighted and tucked make a big difference. The spring selection and helix all have to coincide with one another. If you read the AAEN Book on clutching you will see heavy spring and steep helix is not efficient. People been doing it for yrs. The springs are fighting the helix angle and the wts all the time. Just my .02..
Click to expand...
Sounds like a next winter budget item.
 
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