Shouldn't Head bolts be retorqued after a rebuild and X amount of time?

[Frostbite]

I had my cylinders and head done by SLP this past summer.

I put the engine back together, toruqed everything down and ran the engine until it was warmed up. On previous sleds I have owned, you were required to recheck the torque after the engine had been ran and cooled.

I don't see that reference anywhere in Cat literature (maybe I missed it) but, is it a good idea to recheck the head torque after head installation on a Suzuki motor?

Thank you

 

[RACINSTATION]

It is always a good idea to run it through 3 heat cycles and then retorque everything.

 

[Frostbite]

Got it! I will do just that.

Thank you

PS: You don't happen to have a Power Commander III fuel mapping program for a M8 with the SLP Performance Editon WITH a BDX airbox yet, do you?

 

[SLEDIOT]

It is always a good idea to run it through 3 heat cycles and then retorque everything.

X2 on this, but my preference would be to retorque after each heat cycle. and if a guy wants to get really technical, only torque part way on each cycle with full torque on the last 1. Learned this method in millwrighting school. Its the engineered way of torqueing to true value. Cheers

 

[snowcatter]

I could be wrong on this, but I am pretty sure that you do not need to re-torque the head bolts on these engines. The reason we re-torque head bolts is because the head gasket compresses after heating and cooling. These engines have no head gaskets, and use o-rings instead.

 

[harf69]

I could be wrong on this, but I am pretty sure that you do not need to re-torque the head bolts on these engines. The reason we re-torque head bolts is because the head gasket compresses after heating and cooling. These engines have no head gaskets, and use o-rings instead.

that was my impression as well i figured they are o rings not to mention the book says nothing about retorque but i tend to torque them in stages i guess habit from torqueing heads

 

[RACINSTATION]

You are absolutely right that the orings SHOULD not need retorquing. The manual says nothing about it. I do notice, however, that I usually get a little give when running through the heat cycles. Paper base gaskets and head gaskets of any sort usually yield more gain in retorquing than metal base gaskets and head o rings. I was just telling y'all how I do it. I almost always get another bit of twist out of all the bolts once warmed up and broken in.

 

[diggerdown]

An initial re-torque does not hurt. Heat, cooling and vibs all aid in eliminating any uneven pressures. You should never re-torque more than once however. The heating and cooling causes the bolts to stretch and continued tightening will only weaken them.

 

[Frostbite]

Wow, this thread turned ona dime.

Ok, I'll do it only once after a serious heating and cooling cycle.

I sure love this forum.