should I replace my springs?

[dgreet77]

First of the sled is an '05 M7 with RKT 14:1 head and porting, and BDX deflection adjuster; otherwise stock. Anyways my sled has ~3500 miles on it and as far as I know I'm still running the original stock springs. Just wondering if it would be a good idea to go ahead and get new ones; or are the old ones still good to go? What is the typical life of clutch springs?

The clutch setup as it sits now is the Orange/White primary, yellow/white secondary, 65g weights, and 36* helix.

Any suggestions as to new setups to try with the M7 would be appreciated too; I ride from 5-8k when at home and 9-11k when in the Snowies.

My target with the head and porting is 8020 RPMs, the setup I have seems to hit that dead on at 5-8k feet, but lacks about 300 RPMs up high in the Snowies, the power difference is noticeable too. Should I just drop to 63g when I ride up high?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[KSH]

First of the sled is an '05 M7 with RKT 14:1 head and porting, and BDX deflection adjuster; otherwise stock. Anyways my sled has ~3500 miles on it and as far as I know I'm still running the original stock springs. Just wondering if it would be a good idea to go ahead and get new ones; or are the old ones still good to go? What is the typical life of clutch springs?

The clutch setup as it sits now is the Orange/White primary, yellow/white secondary, 65g weights, and 36* helix.

Any suggestions as to new setups to try with the M7 would be appreciated too; I ride from 5-8k when at home and 9-11k when in the Snowies.

My target with the head and porting is 8020 RPMs, the setup I have seems to hit that dead on at 5-8k feet, but lacks about 300 RPMs up high in the Snowies, the power difference is noticeable too. Should I just drop to 63g when I ride up high?

Thanks in advance!!

Personally I'm a firm believer in replacing non-titanium springs yearly.

Here is a link to a thread on M7 Clutching
2006 M7 clutching help

 

[milehighassassin]

I try and replace my springs at the start of every season. If they are titanium in can be expensive but because of the cost I don't run a Ti spring.

To me it is cheap insurance to know the springs are fine, with the cost of belts these days it is cheaper to replace springs than belts.

It will change from sled to sled, but doing a rebuild or at least going through the clutch every 1000 miles is a pretty good idea.

If your clutch hasn't been touched in 3500 miles, I would go through it before the start of the season, there are going to be things that need replaced, including springs.


If you are happy with your current set-up, I would stay stick with it and just replace the wear parts. I am not that familiar with the clutch on a Cat (rode a Ski-Doo and Polaris). I would imagine the springs and rollers at least.

 

[dgreet77]

Oh, forgot to mention that the Primary was replaced ~300 miles ago due to just pretty well being worn out all around; but as far as I know they used my old weights and springs.

I've also been through all of the M7 help threads and downloaded the compiled info...sometimes I miss something though.

Also where do you guys buy your springs? I can't find a place to buy the springs I want, namely the ones I have and the AC orange to try; every place I look only has one or the other...

 

[KSH]

Oh, forgot to mention that the Primary was replaced ~300 miles ago due to just pretty well being worn out all around; but as far as I know they used my old weights and springs.

I've also been through all of the M7 help threads and downloaded the compiled info...sometimes I miss something though.

Also where do you guys buy your springs? I can't find a place to buy the springs I want, namely the ones I have and the AC orange to try; every place I look only has one or the other...

Here is some more reading material..
M7 Clutching and Clutching Related Info compiled by "Upjohn"

 

[dgreet77]

Here is some more reading material..
M7 Clutching and Clutching Related Info compiled by "Upjohn"

Thanks for the link, but I downloaded this back when it was first posted. I've read it several times.

 

[winter brew]

If in doubt, replace both springs. Cheap and easy. I use a spring tester and check the springs of most sleds that come through the shop. Some springs last longer than others but almost all seem to take a "set" right away and drop 10-20 lbs....after that they seem to maintain that tension for a long time. Some springs have tested like new after thousands of miles, others drop 50-60lbs after a season.

 

[milehighassassin]

If you are running the Arctic Cat springs then a dealer can get them for you.

Cutlers Performance is a good online place.

OEM Cat Springs at Cutlers

 

[dgreet77]

If you are running the Arctic Cat springs then a dealer can get them for you.

Cutlers Performance is a good online place.

OEM Cat Springs at Cutlers

I am running the cat springs, but the nearest dealer is ~2.5 hours away; so was looking online. Thanks for the link to cutlers; but i still can't seem to find a place to pick up the cat orange...think I might give it a go.

 

[KSH]

Pm FreeAgent on here, she can get OEM and ship to you.

 

[dgreet77]

Pm FreeAgent on here, she can get OEM and ship to you.

Thanks for the reminder. I knew that; sometimes I swear my brain just quits.