• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Secondary Clutch Rollers for 08/09 REV XP

Dean... You are right, they do seem to give a lot of trouble and others have contacted me about it but they are 'high tech' and so far I haven't come up with anything that would be any better. I haven't heard how the aftermarket ones are working out.
 
For anyone questioning, "why"?.....inspect your stockers. Mine had 600km or so and were grooved badly from the Shockwave helix. The Hi-Torques seem to be a lot sturdier material. Now changing them is a PITA...if you are not totally sure about the instructions, post on here and I'm sure Dan, Dean, myself or anyone else who has won the battle already can help ya out.
 
For anyone questioning, "why"?.....inspect your stockers. Mine had 600km or so and were grooved badly from the Shockwave helix. The Hi-Torques seem to be a lot sturdier material. Now changing them is a PITA...if you are not totally sure about the instructions, post on here and I'm sure Dan, Dean, myself or anyone else who has won the battle already can help ya out.

Id love to help, but Dan's son Calvin did most of it. I guess I should have paid attention to what was going on. :rolleyes: I was too busy BSing with Dan and Calvin. I can tell you the job would definitely be easier with a QRS tool to compress the clutch. Also, doing this would be a good opportunity to throw regular bolts in the back of the secondary so you can take the secondary apart without pulling the shaft each time.
 
Getting the 'e' clip off the roller axle was the fun part. I have the QRS spring tool. Calvin told me he made a tiny pick from a flattened out nail. I tried this....by the time the nail was flat enough, it had the strength of tin foil and broke....hahaha. My neighbor is a licensed tech and generally one of those real handy guys....he was able to dig the 'e' clips out with a bastardized seal pick with a bit of custom grinding and bending.
 
Hey Dan. Dont mean to beat this to death or anything, but curious why you dont want to do the primary rollers. Seems like there would be way more demand for the ones in the primary based on the skidoo's failure rate in recent years.

Arent guys having good luck with the oversized aftermarket ones that are currently available?

I have looked into doing this for 2 years now with a few bearing companies and have been turned away. The reps did not even want to really talk with me or brushed me off. Even after mentioning that I would drop $5K down to get this bushing going still brush me off. I went to the point of driving 12 hours to this one company direct (summer 08) to bypass arseholl area reps. I waited for a day to get an appointment to talk to a development engineer and basically told me "this is chicken feed"....sorry. Other questions they had for me what "load in lbs" "torque?" "temperatures" "vibration in ips" I had some info from gates/dayco but nothing on vibration analysis. The guy told me that this info would reduce cost to build and if they had to do the vibration then they would need to measure a sled.
BAH!!!!
So I wanted to buy a 4 foot rod of the stuff to try to get a machine shop here in the city to work on it (thinking i could do this) and then the develop guy said minimum 22 feet. I choked on the price.
I ain't done yet, I have one more company Im gonna try to see if I can get help.
 
A sharp chisel & a light touch will take care of the stock ones. After that, no fight to get the E clips off.

If we are changing the stock ones because they are "not good" then why save them?:p
 
Getting ready to put in a set. We are changing the torx out to hex heads. Anyone know what the torque should be for the hex headed bolts?
 

Question for you HiTorque: Are the rollers a normal wear item that should be changed every xxx miles?

I could have worded the above a little better....Rollers do wear. I was the unlucky individual who didn't catch the worn rollers in time and paid the price. Fortunately I was able to get off the mountain. In the future I would prefer to use the K.I.S.S. principal and change rollers every xxx miles. Do you have a suggestion for what xxx is?
 
Last edited:
We've had some customers tell us that their original ski-doo rollers have broken at approximately 3000 miles. Indications are that our rollers could last much longer, but as they have only been out there for a little over a year we can't say for sure. Our rollers for the Arctic Cat clutches made from the same material have been running for years with no trouble. We hopefully anticipate the same service from the ski-doo rollers.

Hope this helps!
 
I just put a set in my 09 XP. Nice product. I would suggest you include the torque secifications for the bolts. It took us an extra hour just to find that information.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top