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Second Rebuild with no Compression

S

snowboatboy

New member
I posted this over in the polaris iq section, but i thought i would put it here to.

So last winter, about the end of december, I was riding my 2007 600HO rmk and completely grenaded the motor, about the end of december, I seized a rod bearing on the crank, as well as messing the pistons and cylinders pretty good. As I started to get going on the rebuild process learned that this is a slightly common occurrence with this sled as the crank bearing aren't as good as they could be.

About a month later I was completely rebuilt and ready for the first fire up. I ran it through a heat cycle and let it cool like i was told to then i fired it up just because who wouldn't with a freshly rebuilt machine. When i started it i let it warm up then gave it some throttle to spin the track and it would rev up.

So i tried to figure that out and eventually got a compression tester on it and found it had about 60 psi i thought that cant be good than tried to figure out the next thing to do.
Skip forward through summer to September I pull the head off and cylinders off and find that the new piston have scuffed my new cylinders and screwed everything up pretty good. So i called the outfit that i got the cylinders and pistons from, Millenium Technologies, and started to ask questions, they told me to send them back to them and they would check them for irregularities. They ended up honing the aluminum out of the cylinders and sending them back to me. I ordered a new set of pistons put it all back together to try again.


Same thing happens again:frusty:. Except this time I've only got 40psi. At this point I am getting discouraged and wondering what am i doing wrong. Plus I'm not super motivated to work on the mystery machine as I've got a kx500 snowbike that i picked up in the summer, but i pulled the top end apart again and found this. I've had guy i know who has quite a bit of engine experience come look at it, and he was wondering if there is supposed to be that much clearance between the top of the cylinder and the piston at tdc. And as you can see, the piston is worn, as well as one of the edges of the power valve. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, Thanks for looking.

Oh yeah if anyone wants to buy a rolling chassis with quite a few upgrade give me a shout.:face-icon-small-win

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Well I can tell you one thing at TDC that piston should be nearly flush with the top of cylinder. I would say either the rod is too short or the cylinder is to tall. Did you have your crank rebuilt by somebody?
 
X2. Looks like maybe when they rebuilt the crank they used a shorter rod to me. There is no way there should be that much clearance volume at TDC.
 
I got the crank from a race shop off ebay. I measured it when i got it and compared it to my old one and it was good. I also measured the stroke, and it is right on spec.
 
I agree that the piston should be flush to the top of the cylinder. Check the specs on the cylinder and make sure they didn't send the wrong ones. It also looks like you put the rings in upside down. I say that because they appear to be stuck into the grooves. There is a little dot on the top of the rings, if they went into the cylinder hard they were in the wrong way. Millenium is usually very good but mistakes can be made, some how you have the wrong parts.
 
your power valve sure looks like it is riding on that piston as well..which adds another thought that the jugs are not intended for that motor as they are not spacing the power valve out enough..and why didn't the power valve cause more damage as the crown of the piston passes by it...is the power valve casing height seem right..??
 
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its the wrong piston for that motor, almost looks like a 700 piston, 64mm stroke for 600 68mm for 700 so piston would be aprox .156 down in the hole also 700 is 4mm bigger whats your skirt clearance?

heres what you have
 
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So my dad was looking at it this morning and decided to remeasure the rods and compare them to the old crank, why I didn't think of this a long time ago I don't know. But he found the rods in the crank on my machine are actually .243 shorter than my old crank. This answers a lot of question, but it doesn't really make me very happy. Any body got any really good cheap solution to this?
 
On the upside, at least you know why you were having problems now, and what the solution should be....
 
Yeah yeah i know i did it with the ebay crank:face-icon-small-fro, but it was only $250 so it seemed like a good idea at the time. And yes it most definitely is an upside actually knowing what is wrong. Anybody know if I can just get new rods put on the crank i got, seems like an easy fix since the stroke is right.
 
So my dad was looking at it this morning and decided to remeasure the rods and compare them to the old crank, why I didn't think of this a long time ago I don't know. But he found the rods in the crank on my machine are actually .243 shorter than my old crank. This answers a lot of question, but it doesn't really make me very happy. Any body got any really good cheap solution to this?

The connecting rod is shorter or your crank has less stroke?
 
I would try to find out what that crank is supposed to fit and try selling it, then find the correct one for your sled. Last time I looked rods are very expensive, you can probably sell what you have and buy the correct one for less and you know the stator indexing and pto length would be right.
 
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