RT w/ eRave issues
Can you give a little more detail with the sled's problems...Electrical...good chance the relays need to be replaced...you can purchase them at the local auto store...fuel issues...do the relays first then check for low psi pump operation...also get rid of old gas in tank add fresh fuel and add SEA-Foam with 100 to 1 oil to gas and a little dry gas to get rid of water in fuel filter...remove the large plastic nut that holds the cowel to fuel tank and lift up...take a look from the clutch side at the pyramid bar where the fuel filter is and the gas return line is and make sure that there is no kink in the lines and check the over flow fuel line for a kink...electrical: Check that the ground strap at the right foot stirrup is grounded correctly to frame, the star washer should be between ground strap and the frame...also check the ground strap at the front of the engine to the frame...Pull your secondary clutch off and take a look at the outer injector plug wire on the pto side, the red wire can rub against the frame and short out...make sure all the exhaust manifold bolts are locktited and there is no leaks at the gaskets....also check for wires from the water temp sensor are no chafed at the frame, the outer shieve that contains the water temp wires wears through beside the over fill bottle...run the mid-altitude map if altitude permits...for dee powder riding the ECM hold down box has two little holes to tle the water out, well the holes don't let the water out and the ECM will be laying in a puddle of water, fix it so that the water drains out...the magneto on the 2005 sdi had magnets that had a tendency to loosen and fall out and you may have to replace with newer magneto, if they are loose you may be able to hear them when you turn motor over by hand...hope this helps...Allen.
Just my .02 or .03 - Allen, Guys, Thanks for all the details, its all valuable to read everyones findings, for sure. I also agree, that "MOST" anything that you need to know about the RT can be found at DooTalk in the Mach section. There are guys there with more than one Mach or Gade with 10k plus miles and several engine mods and etc, But not everything gets fixed.
1) Avoid
sea foam in excess, especially if you put too much in, it causes problems. Used correctly, and sparingly it will help keep things corrosion free and lubed up, BUT put in a can to a tank and expect to have trouble.... gummy lines, sticky rubber suction check valves etc... I have seen sled actually STOP pumping fuel with a "can to a tank" ratio sea foam in them, after a HUGE troubleshooting weekend trying to figure out what the heck was going on, and pumped the tank out and put in fresh gas and the problem goes away.
2) I have an 05 RT HMX and it has "never" run correctly, I dont think. and I am picky about details etc, and I work on it myself. Sadly enuf it was a problem child when I bought it. I think I am getting a handle on it now, three years later.
These machines require all the settings to be very accurate, and very precisely maintained. eRave, TPS, water temp, sensors, wiring etc and even the factory shop manual procedures are not correct in a lot of cases, field trials have developed better procedures. Thanks to the internet, we are able to fix these things....
3) Mine has had the little yellow "engine" light blinking since day 1, I was originally told by the dealers that "they all do this, its nothing..your sled has all the latest and greatest updates that are available...just go ride it" so I did and it wiped out a set of pistons....
The flashing EMS light (lower left corner of the tach) means there is a PROBLEM and trouble codes are set in the ECM, which usually have to be cleared by the BUDS comp system at the dealership.
I now know its usually an eRave problem which sets the code, or an electrical 'glitch' results in a "fail safe fuel map" being employed. This is good that it doesnt lean down and burn up, but the problem is that MAP which then WAY overfuels the motor to the "open eRave" MAP and washes the oil off the piston skirts where the injectors spray like little pressure washers
(hence the 100 to 1 oil mix recommendation!!!)
I thought my error code was the low pressure fuel pump going bad, so I pulled the motor and put a new MSD racing pump out by the chaincase. Mine acts like it is running out of gas below a half a tank, and it should NOT be having troubles, because all the warranty updates for the fuel problem were done.
How do I know Im running the fail safe fuel map? I had major plug fouling trouble at first, soaking wet plugs, even after all the updates were supposedly completed, somebody said it was the "watercraft" type chamber, so i put in a set of Bikeman heads, it got a timy bit better, Somebody else recommended the EYA spark plugs, and they worked even better yet, but not 100%, SO I put on a set of Nology spark amplifiers and they work really good, it goes like heck, and it stays running, but it still leaves huge black streaks in the snow, like a diesel truck with a plugged air filter, so I put on a BOSS TFI box, and cut the fuel map down below stock levels and the sled started running better, now I put on twin pipes and gutted the airbox and it runs even better, its an animal, but I am still at or below stock maps and leaving black streaks, so I know its NOT right.
I have just reset the eRaves per the dootalk FAQ, (which is a priceless resource for any RT owner) because they were way off, and I set them myself when I got the new cable update last spring. I posted those attached as pics.
I am going in to get the trouble codes reset on Monday, along with installing the 07 mid altitude map, ( I have the 06.5 fall map)
I have a fuel pressure gage kit to install, and plan to do that after the dealer visit. Knowing your fuel pressure on these things is very important when you care about performance, if you have trouble, if you want to fix it yourself. You can see the fluctuations and track down where they come from, injector leak off/ electrical/ fuel supply/hose kink etc
I have plans to re-vamp the whole fuel system, if my problem doesnt go away. Its completely rediculous to have to run two separate 60 psi fuel pumps, and all this extra hose and crap, and still starve out when POL /CAT/ YAM all run a single pump with no problems.
I will post the results for all to see. Hopefully the dealer codes cleared out will fix it.
SLEDR4LIFE - if the actuator moves a little, it is supposed to, if you touch the pulley while the jumper is installed, the motor should make little noises as it finds home. One position is the 'cable install' position, then the next is 'eRaves closed position' which is about 5* rotation CCW from install. This difference has to be obtained, and sets the proper tension on the top (close) cable so you can take slack out of the bottom cable. If they dont open after that proper adjustment, you can change the actuator, but it might be a crank position/rpm/tps or other issue that is keeping them closed
1) Ensure the battery is 100% killer & the EMS light is not blinking, if so check everything here, then go to the dealer and demand they get someone on the phone who knows what to do with these RT's
(theres no way to clear the codes otherwise)
2) Ensure there is not a bunch of crap/belt dust in the reeds and throttles
3) Make sure the plugs are clean and the caps are good
a.(resistance @5k ohms)
b.(they have to be on the right cylinder too, the RT has timed spark to EACH cylinder, not like most modern sleds are batch fired)
c. put a timing light on each of the spark plug wires while running and observe the flashing for consistency....if its scattered you may have a trigger coil issue
4) make sure the injectors didnt get mixed up, when you had them out (see guide in dootalk FAQ)
5) verify/check ALL the wiring connections to the system sensors and everywhere else, especially the weatherpacks for "pushed in pins" they are bad about that
6) verify the oil pump cable adjustment is 18mm
7) verfiy the low pressure fuel pump is working every time, all the time, the pump can be heard "clickety clickety" sound when you push the RER button to wake up the ECM.... if its suspect, check all the relays, get a few spares to test with.... or even hot-wire it direct to a car battery and pull the hose going into the pump module, put it to a bucket and then flow test it
8) take the y-pipe off and look into it, MANY of them are collapsed inside
If that stuff is all good, and you can get it to run okay on the track stand,
Adjust the primary clickers down to 1 and test ride the sled, start on a flat long surface and gradually increase rpm until the raves open, then keep creeping rpm up until it runs like crap or acts up, record what rpm it 'doesnt like'
If a 1000 goes over 8000 rpm it will go into REV LIMIT mode and run like its starving for fuel, or losing a spark plug, because it is. Its timing and fuel map are being cut down to NIL. It will stay running, but its nuts are clipped. Mine was revving past 8100 before it could even be seen on the tach to be 7000ish or so, and running really really bad. I had to put 12 grams in the weights (used thundershift arms) The summit sleds are set up for 6000+ feet and if you are below that (or any other higher power condition, good air, or poor traction issue, ice, light fluffy snow) it will over rev, so it will need weight in the primary!!!
Let us know what you find, dude.
