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RT 1000 electrical ????????????

Wiring schematic (the best way to locate which wire does what) and a volt meter. three wires going to it. 1st is a 5 volt reference signal from the ECM, 2nd one will be ground signal from the ECM and the 3rd will be the signal wire ie voltage going back to the ECM from the position or angle of the potentiometer inside of the TPS. This signal will generally be between .5 volts at idle and around 4 volts w.o. and will change with throttle opening.

Some TPS will increase voltage as throttle opening gets greater, some (not many) work opposite and will decrease in voltage as throttle opening increases. To check for this signal, you're going to need to locate the ground ref wire and the (3rd) signal. This signal is sometimes very difficult to diagnois properly as drop outs and glitches can happen so fast that often times a very expensive digital volt meter may not pick it up unless it's a very large dropout where as the ECM can. an analog meter can sometimes detect this easier.

One of the easiest ways to check the TPS on the RT is to hook it up to the BUDS unit at the dealer. Sometimes a reset and throttle body adjustment can take care of runnability issues. The TPS is not adjustable without the BUDS unit.
 
So does the sled need to be running at the time of testing?

My problem seems to come and go. But is there more than not. When it is acting up, it doesn;t want to go above 5000 rpms without a backfire through the pipe, exspecialy under a load. Seems as if it is over fueling, due to the fact that when riding it and it pops enough it will catch fire, seems as if it is in the pipe.

but for a short time it might come to life and run fine.

I have checked and replaced everthing but the stator and the TPS.

reeds, vaules, fuel pressure, ecm, all other sensores, compression, I have even put the stock domes back in it, relays, checked fuses, plugs, battery, low pressure pump, everything seems not to change.

TPS is the next best thing to try, without having to colpletly pul the motor to change the stator, Plus i have not an extra one of those .

I am trying to diagnose this problem without the cost of having to buy all these parts.

a buddie has loaned me all the other parts and nothing has changed this problem, Do you have any other ideas maybe???

Thaxs Shad.
 
If you're checking without the Buds unit then I would energize the electrical system by pushing the start button. Typically, you want to check the TPS with the engine off as you'll want to sweep the throttle while monitoring the voltage output of the TPS.

As far as your runnability issue goes, low pressure fuel pump fill gas to top of cap and run engine to bypass pump, battery must hold nothing less than 12.5 volts and I'm not talking about charging it to get that. In fact, I prefer E-start batteries in place of those junk batteries. these RT's must have perfect batteries. Verify Eraves, gears can swell cause them to stick and make sure cables are not sticking freyed inside. If you have a fuel controller, disconnect it. inspect y-pipe for collapsing.

Stator could be bad, but isn't a very common failure in the RT.
 
As above,,, mine back fired with old programs,,, also ran so bad it seemed like the clutching was off, could not keep it at shift rpm,, but once the 07 mid-alt went in it was a different machine and very close to right,,, Booney still nice to add in mid and lean out the top a bit.
 
tHAXS FOR the info i think I will take it in for a look at the dealer ,

not sure what progam is in it. i am trying to figure this out for another forum member.

I think I have about done all I can without the buds.
 
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