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Rotating mass??

Recently switched to the snow bike world. In the sled world rotating mass is one of the big things people are going after to increase performance. Lightweight clutches.. brake rotors. Anything that spins.. what's out there for bikes? Anyone dabbled in this yet?. I'm on a 2011 ktm 450sxf. 16 Mountain horse short track. Can't find many power adders for my setup. So why not do what's seems pretty proven for those guys?
 
Ride a 2 stroke through tight trees and then a 4 stroke. Pretty noticeable difference in handling. Definite advantage goes to the 2 stroke.

But.... snowbikes downfall isn't the handling, it's power. That's why most fellas run 450s. Both my close riding buddies ride 300 2 strokes and can do everything I can just a touch slower.
 
Not really concerned so much of tight tree riding handling.. mines fine in the trees.. More concerned with the deep powder days.. Snowmobile guys are shifting from big bores and turbos to reducing rotating mass... lighter weight. More responsive.. keeping hp numbers while improving other areas to make the machine perform better.. I've ridden dirt bikes for a long time. Both 2 and 4 in many conditions.. I just havent seen this applied to the snow bike world yet..
 
Recently switched to the snow bike world. In the sled world rotating mass is one of the big things people are going after to increase performance. Lightweight clutches.. brake rotors. Anything that spins.. what's out there for bikes? Anyone dabbled in this yet?. I'm on a 2011 ktm 450sxf. 16 Mountain horse short track. Can't find many power adders for my setup. So why not do what's seems pretty proven for those guys?

For your kit to make it more efficient:

You NEED THE LATEST TRACK thats the first issue to make a better snow bike
Then you REALLy need to upgrade your ski/spindle to the ARO. After these two upgrade you might consider it perfect.

But

If you have the time check out the rear idlers ( they are not round )l land often spaced to rub on the drive lugs, the top idle wheels ( they also are not round ) are likely rubbing on the track drive lugs, are toooo wide and need trimmed or replaced........need to make necessary adjustments, check your drivers, they most likely are also rubbing on the drive lugs unnecessarily and need to be spaced correctly.

If you have stock springs on your shocks.............they are way to soft !!!
If you walked alongside your uphill climbing track/trench you will see hard piles of snow every 50 ft or so, your soft suspension is compressing from traction and letting go over and over and you are going nowhere very fast.

Better chains like DID DVX are more efficient and seat of the pants and easier roll.

And if you pull up all the TS threads since your 2016 came out, lots of help on making a lighter better kit.
There's a month of evening work.
 
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If you don't find what you are looking for on the mass side of things, or still want to add power a set of Web Cams, 43mm carb bore, 13.5:1 piston, porting, and an exhaust is a good package on that engine. Vortex ignition adds bottom end if you can find one for sale (discontinued).
 
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