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Riot doesn’t roll freely in neutral

Hey Guy’s,
I took my Riot out for the first time yesterday and the track barely rolls when the bike is in neutral. I really have to yank on the bars to get the bike out of the back of my truck. Any suggestions on what’s wrong? I set the chain tension according to the manual. I wrote Timbersled and they said it should roll.
 
To set expectations, at cold temps, don't every expect your kit, or any kit, to be what I would call "free rolling". Even the brands known for easier rolling (CMX and Yeti due to belt drives), at cold temps, things are just stiff and don't want to turn. Add in the chain case rather than belt drive and you have even more resistance. My past Timbersleds would never "free roll" even in a warm shop much less freezing temps. Yes you could get them to turn the rack if you drug them backwards hard enough with enough downward pressure to give them traction, but more often, they would just drag the paddles across the floor rather than turn the track. I always used a wheel kit under the track or picked it up to move it forward or backwards.

You'll likely experience the track dragging, rather than turning, if you are pushing or pulling the bike around via the handlebards like you mention. To get a feel for just how much resistance there is on a snowbike track, lift up the tunnel via a stand and turn the track by hand. It will be eye opening how much effort it takes. As mountainrider said, the track will loosen up a bit with use, but even then, at cold temps, you'll likely find that the paddles drag backwards before you are going to get the track to roll backwards. Rear tires these are not. Ha. Not sure how Timbersled/Polaris worded their reply, but if they gave the impression it will just "roll backwards" out of your truck in cold temps, that isn't very realistic. Lift it up a bit and pull it back, throw a wheel kit under the back to roll it backwards, or grab the rear tunnel and try to roll it backwards while pushing down. You'll figure out the loading and unloading technique that works for you.
 
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Track tension. They come way to tight... ride it a few times and see if it loosens up. I often take a bit of tension out after it's broken in. the Riot rolls better than most other kits I've had, but still don't expect moving them by hand to ever be easy.
 
My dad and i both have Aro 3s this year and after install when we loaded the track just seemed to drag and not roll just like our 17’ kits.. first 10 min down the trail went back to trailer to adjust the tss length and chain. When pulling it backwards from bumper i could not believe how easy it was and was rolling with ease. Had the wheel kit on the front ski but still way easier than previous years.
 
My dad and i both have Aro 3s this year and after install when we loaded the track just seemed to drag and not roll just like our 17’ kits.. first 10 min down the trail went back to trailer to adjust the tss length and chain. When pulling it backwards from bumper i could not believe how easy it was and was rolling with ease. Had the wheel kit on the front ski but still way easier than previous years.

Tracks roll so much easier when once they are warmed up, even a few miles, it's amazing. Once they sit in the cold, it's right back to stiff and hard to turn by hand.

Glad to hear the newer kits roll a bit easier than older ones.
 
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Well, to make my RIOT roll I eliminated the main drive rub block and used big sprockets, ditched the chain case roller, narrowed the top rear suspension wheels, put the rear wheels in a lathe and made them round, align my track so the rear wheels don't interfere with the drive lugs, put DID low friction o ring chain on, run my track a little looser than recommended.
 
For getting the bike out of the truck, the most efficent way (from an energy expended to create motion perspective) is to grab the track on top near the drop bracket rollers and pull. This makes the track roll instead of drag, and you have a fair bit of mechanical advantage (though with friction in the system). Essentially, the driveshaft acts as a pulley, and the track as a rope. Very little effort compared to other methods, doesn't require either lifting or pushing down. Just don't catch your fingers in the wheels. I usually run my tie downs from the bars back to the foot pegs to keep the ski pointed straight if I don't have somebody in the bed to hold the bars for me. Works like a charm.

Totally off topic from the OP, but a nice trick I learned my first time out.
 
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