RG M1000 Q's

[strickly arctic business]

I took out my 07 BD RG M1000 for the first time today, and for the most part the ride went well. However I do have some questions. I have one of the older kits and with the ada updated box, and the stats screen was confusing me. What do these numbers mean to me?

Max DCIN/OUT
7760 59/75

Max PSI Temp
05.6 066


The max psi (especially where this is a rg kit) and temp numbers don't even seem right to me. I'm not running a boost gauge so I can't compare apples to apples. This is my first turbo and first day on the snow with this sled so i'm a little new to this. The sled did run well. There didn't seem to be any turbo lag, very very little.

Any help would be great. Thanks fellas!!!!

 

[RACINSTATION]

Max DC in and out refers to injector voltage....how much you are using.

Max PSI is your max boost recorded. You can reset it if you would like, but it is the max boost your transducer picked up since last reset.

Temp is your intercooler temp, should be higher than what you are seeing.

You need a boost gauge just in case you have a boost leak or something, then you are aware of it.

 

[strickly arctic business]

Thank you Eric for the reply. Shouldn't the max psi change without clearing the screen? Or do I need to clear it and then make a pull? Same with the max temp?

 

[matt159]

I took out my 07 BD RG M1000 for the first time today, and for the most part the ride went well. However I do have some questions. I have one of the older kits and with the ada updated box, and the stats screen was confusing me. What do these numbers mean to me?

Max DCIN/OUT
7760 59/75

Max PSI Temp
05.6 066

I have a similar older box on my RG m8t & had it updated to ADA.
DCin/out 59/75 refers to "Duty Cycle." At the max rpm recorded (7760) the stock ECU was running the factory injectors at 59% of duty cycle & the boondocker controller increased the fuel to a duty cycle of 75%. The DC number does not reflect any secondary injector settings.

I would guess that if you were only running 5.6psi, that temp could be accurate. At 11lbs, my charge temps were between 90 & 130 degrees. At one point, my max didn't go past 98 degrees for most of a morning when it was only 15 degrees out.

I put the BD "nitrous" button on my bars ($15.00?) & set it to "capture" mode. Whenever I push the button it captures at that moment what the boost, temp, rpm, & low/mid/hi so you can easily see what setting you need to tune. The resettable max setting doesn't provide much useful tuning info over a 30 second pull especially if you're in & out of the throttle trying to tune out a little bog or something.

If you are trying for more than 5.6psi, either you have a boost leak or the waste gate controller is set way loose.

 

[matt159]

Thank you Eric for the reply. Shouldn't the max psi change without clearing the screen? Or do I need to clear it and then make a pull? Same with the max temp?

You'll have to clear the max settings each time. You can put it in stats mode to display the current stats, but it will be nearly impossible to read while moving. Regarding your temp sensor, where is it installed?

 

[strickly arctic business]

Thank you for the good info matt159. Yes I am trying for more than 5.6 pounds of boost. Turned the boost controller all the way down before we headed out. Once I seen what it was running I gave it 28 clicks overall. Should have been around 9 pounds, but where I didn't reset it I guess I won't know til next weekend. Did seem to give it more lag.

I don't think it a boost leak due to I can hear the waste gate working but it is quite. So how do you adjust the waste gate? Do I move the jam nut toward the assembly itself or toward where it hieges on the turbo?

 

[strickly arctic business]

You'll have to clear the max settings each time. You can put it in stats mode to display the current stats, but it will be nearly impossible to read while moving. Regarding your temp sensor, where is it installed?

It is mounted in the innercooler. In the bottom, center.

 

[matt159]

With the waste gate closed, adjust the actuator arm in half turn increments until you have to put a little tension on it to get it reconnected to the waste gate (so it holds it closed with a little spring pressure). That is the recommended starting position. Hope that helps.

 

[strickly arctic business]

Is it uncommon to have a higher DC In than Out? 94/93 is what i seen. And when I reset the max psi I am seeing a negitive number at an idle. Anywhere from -1.6 to -2.5. The highest max boost I seen was 2.7 all day. No boost gauge but will have one on for the next trip out. Thanks

 

[matt159]

I think that indicates your duty cycle on the stock injectors is maxed out and you need to adjust your secondary injectors to compensate, but hopefully someone that knows will chime in. Since you are seeing negative boost (vacuum) at idle your pressure sensor must be in the line that goes to the BOV from the engine side of the throttle bodies. That was the way my 2008 RG kit was installed on the sled, but I changed it to the charge tube like they do with the new kits. It supposedly made the kits easier to tune according to what Boondocker told me last summer.

This other thread is about m8 RG kits, but it will probably help.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206508

 

[strickly arctic business]

So the vacuum tubes from the underside of the injectors should go to only the bov and? And the pressure transducer should be t'd into the charge tube?

 

[matt159]

So the vacuum tubes from the underside of the injectors should go to only the bov and? And the pressure transducer should be t'd into the charge tube?

Yep. Page 21 of the install intrux on BD's site. Go through the new instrux & make sure your fuel setup is done the new way also. If the fuel pumps are set up in series like mine was, you may not be able to suck enough fuel through the stock pump to feed the injectors.

They also mentioned an issue to me that caused the airbox to leak at the throttle bodies that they updated that for the 08/09 season kits. I'm pretty sure they said the old airbox did not bolt to the throttle body cross bar like it does on page 5.

Link to new install instrux on BD's site.

 

[strickly arctic business]

Thank you. Do you use the fitting on the charge tube or did you plug that fitting and put the fitting into the turbo like bd does in there updated instuctions? Any help would be great.

 

[matt159]

Thank you. Do you use the fitting on the charge tube or did you plug that fitting and put the fitting into the turbo like bd does in there updated instuctions? Any help would be great.

I used the charge tube fitting. I'll guess that the new charge tubes don't have the fitting (less labor to make), so that's why it goes in the compressor housing.

Just had another thought on possible boost leak source. Not sure what style of BOV you have, but I took the cover off of mine when I bought it just to look everything over & it was stuck. Freed it up & rubbed a little oil on the seal & it works fine. That could make a big boost leak for you. Not sure what you've looked at so far for potential leaks.

 

[strickly arctic business]

Were you able to hear your leak or did you know you had one by the amount of boost you were making?

 

[matt159]

Were you able to hear your leak or did you know you had one by the amount of boost you were making?

I had just purchased it & was just going through everything last summer to see how the previous owner had it set up when I discovered the BOV was stuck. I haven't had any boost leak issues. Factory pipe temp sensor vibrated out once & it still made 11 lbs with that 1/2 inch hole in the pipe.