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Reverse Attack 20 track on 05 m7 162

You have to take out the rear suspension (4 bolts), take off your belt, your clutch, your diamond drive (including the long bolt on the brake side), and then slip the track off the drivers and do it all in reverse with the track going the opposite way. If you haven't ever done it, it is a little bit of a pain.
 
yeah see this is my first time doing this so i'm a little clueless getting into it, so far i have my rear suspension out that was no problem and my belt and clutch off and thats where i'm stuck, and i also heard that i can change my rear suspension on the little black bracket(the one with 3 holes) on the inside of the tunnel, Pros or cons to messing with that?
 
yeah see this is my first time doing this so i'm a little clueless getting into it, so far i have my rear suspension out that was no problem and my belt and clutch off and thats where i'm stuck, and i also heard that i can change my rear suspension on the little black bracket(the one with 3 holes) on the inside of the tunnel, Pros or cons to messing with that?
 
Does it have the hrp bracket on the front skid arm? That bracket & revalving the rear shocks was the best mod IMO besides flipping the track to HC.

Also, I removed the brake caliper side & left the DD, belt, & secondary alone. You will need the special DD socket to remove the locknut on the brake disc.
Dealer can get you the socket. Then just slip the drivers out of the DD & track. Only takes a couple hours.

I'm a huge fan of the attack 20, sucks on the trail, but kicks some *** on the mountain & boon docking.
 
The attack 20 absolutley sucks ****, had it on my 06 m7 for 2 trips out west. the first trip with it the regular way and then fliped it for the next cause it seemed to be just spinning and going no where when climbing some harder set snow, so fliped it for the next trip so I could actually go some where and sure worked great going up but coming down was a different story that wasnt fun at all, always having close calls to trees and what not when coming out cause of not being able to slow down because the paddles when flipped just slide over the snow when on the brake, and so then said enough is enough, called the dealer for a challeger on sale for $500 which was way worth the money that I would do a hured times over, felt a night and day difference in being able to actually control the sled, so what i would sugest if u have it apart would to get a track that woint put u into a tree or another person, by the way that attack 20 of mine is for sale and would sell it cheap if anyone wants a death wish...
 
powertrack

the attack20 was a specific track made for light dry powder.Anything firm or slip and side away, down right dangerous.Buy a new powerclaw, no on will ride behind you either!!!!!!!!!!!!! it throws snow also.The pack will learn real quick, stay back...:D
 
Does it have the hrp bracket on the front skid arm? That bracket & revalving the rear shocks was the best mod IMO besides flipping the track to HC.

Also, I removed the brake caliper side & left the DD, belt, & secondary alone. You will need the special DD socket to remove the locknut on the brake disc.
Dealer can get you the socket. Then just slip the drivers out of the DD & track. Only takes a couple hours.

I'm a huge fan of the attack 20, sucks on the trail, but kicks some *** on the mountain & boon docking.

i love my attak 20 the trail is good coming down the hill is scary and for the presonbelow the attak 20 doesnt suck it is awsome
 
The attack 20 absolutley sucks ****, had it on my 06 m7 for 2 trips out west. the first trip with it the regular way and then fliped it for the next cause it seemed to be just spinning and going no where when climbing some harder set snow, so fliped it for the next trip so I could actually go some where and sure worked great going up but coming down was a different story that wasnt fun at all, always having close calls to trees and what not when coming out cause of not being able to slow down because the paddles when flipped just slide over the snow when on the brake, and so then said enough is enough, called the dealer for a challeger on sale for $500 which was way worth the money that I would do a hured times over, felt a night and day difference in being able to actually control the sled, so what i would sugest if u have it apart would to get a track that woint put u into a tree or another person, by the way that attack 20 of mine is for sale and would sell it cheap if anyone wants a death wish...

and you dont just slam on the brakes going down the hill that is your whole problem and if you want to learn how to ride awsome watch schooled with burandt and brettrasmuesen i thought i was a ntb rider until i watched that video it is intense
 
the attack20 was a specific track made for light dry powder.Anything firm or slip and side away, down right dangerous.Buy a new powerclaw, no on will ride behind you either!!!!!!!!!!!!! it throws snow also.The pack will learn real quick, stay back...:D

I agree totally with you. The only people who hate the attack 20 are the people who don't understand what it is for and don't use it for what it was made for. Like said above, SPECIFIC PURPOSE TRACK. If you want a track that works good but not great in all conditions, the attack 20 is not the track you want. If you want a track that is unreal in light fluffy powder, that IS the track you want, but it does come with the cost of not being good in other conditions. I personally love the track, and especially because there are so many people out there who will sell them cheap. I'm not at this time looking to buy though, before you ask, and you probably don't have a 141" anyways.
 
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