Does anyone know what RPM the rev limiter is set to on the 2004 Carburated Kincats?
Thanks,
SHMO
Thanks,
SHMO
Rev limiter 2004 King Carb?
- Thread starter SHMO
- Start date
REV Limiter or Timing Curve?? I would assume the timing starts to drop off at some point.
What I am experiencing is not being able to turn the motor past 8000 rpm, regardless of setup or even throwing nitrous at it in good amounts. Therefore I was thinking the CDI "might" have a rev limiter that played into my issue. Perhaps the timing does fall away after a certain point, but I don't think that would have a bearing on my situation.
Does anyone have experience with turning these motors tighter than 8000rpm?
SHMO
Does anyone have experience with turning these motors tighter than 8000rpm?
SHMO
D
diggerdown
Well-known member
You are at the spot that the timing curve is going flat. You want more, you need a timing key.
D
Double A
Member
My 04 carb went over 8300 rpm on the ground (before it was tuned in) with twins and would rap higher on the stand.
Not sure what it would do with a single pipe. What have you got on it now?
I would question the powervalves or the exhaust. Any nests or blockage in your can? Good Compression Still??
I timed my king cat and it had 10* timing at 8000 rpm and the same at 8200 rpm.
Not sure what it would do with a single pipe. What have you got on it now?
I would question the powervalves or the exhaust. Any nests or blockage in your can? Good Compression Still??
I timed my king cat and it had 10* timing at 8000 rpm and the same at 8200 rpm.
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I am running an SLP single, speedwerx Y-pipe and a mod to the airbox. This combination made 168hp @ 7700 on Unionbays Dyno. I am over revving this setup, but I did not have any addtional primary weight with me when I was on the mountain. My real question was in regards to my motor turning 8000rpm WITH or WITHOUT nitrous. I am hitting it with a healthy dose of nitrous, and I am seeing nothing. No nitrous pull, no increased revs, no nothing. With a good check of the nitrous system everything seems to be a go. I have good bottle temps, solenoids are working, nitrous is flowing. I have nice piston wash and no detonating. I just thought I better ask about the CDI before I go elbows deep into the search for the lost power.
SHMO
SHMO
D
Double A
Member
what does it do when you blip the nitrous button at a lower rpm? like at an idle or mid throttle. Do you have a pressure gauge on the bottle? You should be seeing 900lbs of pressure. If its below it might be spraying but your just not feeling it cause the pressure is too low.
Just ideas here.
Just ideas here.
what
digger down said ....throw more weight to it man it had to make a racket if you had no2 pressure
digger down said ....throw more weight to it man it had to make a racket if you had no2 pressure
D
Double A
Member
^^Sunbather may be right.
I would warm your sled up to operating temp.
Turn the bottle on..purge the line..hit the button for 1/2 second at idle.
If it revs up 500 rpm give or take..try mid throttle, if it revs again..
Add more weight till it runs 7600 or so without nitrous
Then check your bottle pressure and go blast it WOT on the trail.
I would warm your sled up to operating temp.
Turn the bottle on..purge the line..hit the button for 1/2 second at idle.
If it revs up 500 rpm give or take..try mid throttle, if it revs again..
Add more weight till it runs 7600 or so without nitrous
Then check your bottle pressure and go blast it WOT on the trail.
I've ran that scenario. Originally when I saw no gain in the first pull, I let the motor idle down and flicked the button. It imediately reved, just like it should. I ran the motor up to about 2000 rpm and tried again, and it reved again. That is what is stumping me. I know that it is flowing nitrous. Now, I don't have a pressure gauge on my bottle, but I do have it mounted close to my can, and the under hood temps were fairly warm given the riding conditions. With that said, I think my logical next step would be to put some weight in the primary and try it again.
SHMO
SHMO
Well,
that will be my next move. However, it really stumps me. In my experience if it is flowing nitrous, especially a healthy dose, it is flat going to run. It is going to build R's, detonate, pull hard or something. Seeing and feeling literally NO change in performance at wide open throttle with nitrous flowing has me perplexed.
SHMO
that will be my next move. However, it really stumps me. In my experience if it is flowing nitrous, especially a healthy dose, it is flat going to run. It is going to build R's, detonate, pull hard or something. Seeing and feeling literally NO change in performance at wide open throttle with nitrous flowing has me perplexed.
SHMO
Maybe i am missing something here. I did see trouble with my "old" boss system being very inconsistant. The new system has been VERY consistant. Also I was under the impression that with the boss system bottle temp and pressure didnt matter and that was one of the GREAT things about their system.
Rixster,
supposedly the new Boss NPFI system regulates the nitrous pressure down really low, I "think" around 300 psi or something for the usable working pressure. In theory, that should make bottle pressures a lot less important. Or, so they claim...haha
SHMO
supposedly the new Boss NPFI system regulates the nitrous pressure down really low, I "think" around 300 psi or something for the usable working pressure. In theory, that should make bottle pressures a lot less important. Or, so they claim...haha
SHMO
