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Results after 700 mile of field testing various spring for the TRA

Many of you may already know this, And than again many may not.....The weakest internal part and the workhorse of the TRA happens to be the spring. Same goes for any other brand of snowmobile clutch as well.........3 XP 163 were used in testing springs by BRP, Dalton, EPI, Renton and Team.

After 700 miles it was no contest it was Renton vs BRP, Dalton, EPI and Team. The Renton Ti spring never stops pinching the belt under deep powder mountain riding conditions regardless of which ramps and helix profile we used Dalton, Team and EPI would begin to fade at approx 200 to 300 miles. When the spring begins to fade you are no longer consistantly pinching the belt through each shift of the TRA. The $15.99 BRP spring showed signs of fatigue and fade after 1 day of hammering on steep hills for the better part of the day. Once your spring begins to fade all sort of issues begin to occure with the TRA such as lack of rpm, inconsistant upshifting, slight clutch bog/hesitation and hot clutches resulting in worn belts. If maintaining peak consistant performance is a big deal to you like it is to me have a real close look at the quality of wire being used in the spring you are currently useing.


If your always clicking up your clickers, all your trying to do keep your belt pinched. If thats the case there's a pretty good chance your clutch spring has lost 20% or more of it's force. Once the TRA heats up the only internal part working it's azz off and fatiguing under the heat of the TRA is the spring.

Do the search under Renton Coil Springs, you get what you pay for imo.

edit: EPI Springs would be 2nd choice

OT
 
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The spring doesn't squeeze the belt, it pushes the sheaves apart. And clicking up reduces the squeeze on the belt. ;):beer;
 
WB.. Exactly.

In fact,, the STIFFER spring Keeps MORE resistence against the ramps and slows the shift rate...

The primary spring is nothing more than a resistence to the ramp's force.. It has nothing to do with sheave presure on the belt..

Kelsey
 
WB.. Exactly.

In fact,, the STIFFER spring Keeps MORE resistence against the ramps and slows the shift rate...

The primary spring is nothing more than a resistence to the ramp's force.. It has nothing to do with sheave presure on the belt..

Kelsey

Regardless of how you word it, OT is correct in that a spring that wears out will lower your rpms due to excessive upshift. If you start with a 130/350 and end up with a 130/290, you would compensate by clicking up to 6. Not sure if that is the only problem we're fighting with these clutches but that is part of it.


Rt
 
Lucky, go to www.rentoncoilspring.com. If you don't see theDoo spring you like call they probably have it or will make it for you.

Another thing you want to keep an eye on is how the belt will slightly stretch during your day of deep powder riding. That slight stretch is enough to cause issues during the day caused mainly from hot metal in contact with rubber and the tolerance of the rubber breaking down as the heat persists..

Lets face it the $135.00 cut up rubber hose that we use as a belt has it's tolerances as well . The 166 was a great example of a good belt but because the compound was soft couldn't tolerate the persistant heat like the 377 or 288 presently does. About the only way to address that slight belt stretch during the day would be to change to a fresh belt.

OT
 
I have 5 years on my Ti 140-330 spring in my Poo and it is finally starting to show its' age. I will be buying another after this season.
 
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