What am I missing here? I took the cover off took the only bolt out that I can see holds the bracket on plus the two little screws that hold the little adjuster . What the heck am I missing here do I just need to pound harder on it?
Replacing the idler sprocket on the timber sled
- Thread starter needpowder
- Start date
CR500s and big power bikes eat those sprockets and the ones in the chain case as well, we've seen lots of those fail despite what TS says. Those sprockets are a cheap a$$ part designed for conveyor belt systems. If there is enough interest I would be wiling to do up another run of steel replacement sprockets. At least yours didn't break in half or totally disintegrate and turn to dust like I've seen happen. As a precaution you should always carry a spare in your pack. Just sayin.......
M5
M5
There is a screew on the far side of the tensioner that has a little washer that holds the gear on the aluminum adjuster arm. 1 bolt, easy on and off.
The bracket is sleeved over the arm on the frame and requires removing the side panel to get it off, like i said though, not needed for idler replacement.
The bracket is sleeved over the arm on the frame and requires removing the side panel to get it off, like i said though, not needed for idler replacement.
I've watched it slowly get eaten by my chain. The problem is more my alignment i think. There is a very slight dogleg in my chain. I had my drive sprocket turned around for awhile but i switched it back for some reason. I can't remember why now. I kinda wonder if a steel sprocket would tear up my chain instead. If you do get some more steel ones made i'll take one though. The plastic one in my chaincase still looks good.
That might be the call. I just replaced that idler wheel. What a pain that was. Ya it was just one bolt but not an easy one to get at. Dont really wanna do that again after another 15 rides. Should've bought one of m5's when i had the opportunity.
The sprocket doesn't wear out because your bike makes big power. The sprocket is on the following side of the chain so you only stress it under decel.
A million horsepower wouldn't stress it anymore than a 450 does.
There must be an alignment problem.
I used the DOC slider to give more chain to track clearance after I got the C-3 track.
It works great and seems to be lasting well.
Good luck
A million horsepower wouldn't stress it anymore than a 450 does.
There must be an alignment problem.
I used the DOC slider to give more chain to track clearance after I got the C-3 track.
It works great and seems to be lasting well.
Good luck
I probably should have clarified that statement, where you see failures with bikes with power is in the chain case because the joke tensioning system will move if its not super crazy tight then the gear goes away, fast. Summitboys 500 ate one in less than a day, the tensioner couldnt hold the chain back. I built a bunch of positive stop tensioners after that episode and we went to metal gears.
M5
M5
What's the DOC adjuster
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The chaincase is the same as the primary drive.
The tensioner is on the slack side of the chain there,too. No amount of horsepower will overstress
the tensioner. If you have failures with tensioner you have to blame it on something other than
"huge" horsepower.
The tensioner is on the slack side of the chain there,too. No amount of horsepower will overstress
the tensioner. If you have failures with tensioner you have to blame it on something other than
"huge" horsepower.
http://www.docperformance.ca/custom-accessories-for-tmh2.html
It replaces the sprocket with a slider for tensioning the chain.
