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Replacing recoil rope question...

Murph

Polaris Moderator/ Polaris Ambassador
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
What is the trick for getting the bottom two hex head fasteners out of the recoil assembly??

For the life of me I can't see how to get to them since the cast bulkhead is in the way. It looks like I may have to pull the motor???? :scared:

There is a small slot in the cast bulkhead but I can't get the angle right in the head.

Anybody else broke a rope yet? How did you replace??

Thanks,
Murph
 
YEs this is the sucky part..

You can get by with lifting the engine, just take off, The 5 Engine mount bolts. Plus Airbox.

The Trick..

Just Lift engine with engine Hoist.. Using Old Spark plug BPR9ES Ect. With Welded Eye lit after breaking off the porcelain :)

Doesn't take too long.. Take you time on setup.. lifting.. Watching..

SNOWRECOIL11PRMK.jpg
 
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There's no room to get a swivel in there without lifting the motor.

****k!

Wonder if I can remove the two mag side engine mounts and tilt it towards the PTO enough to get on those two bottom bolts.
 
Holy S__T! What a PITA! Mine just broke last Satuday, 1400 miles, and I dropped it at the dealer on Monday and told them to fix it. Along with the leaking oil cap and fuel injector wire that rubbed through. Of course it dumps this week and it won't be done until Monday.
 
Lift the motor to fix the recoil rope? Really?? Who was in charge of that design???
 
Lift the motor to fix the recoil rope? Really?? Who was in charge of that design???

Sounds like the same design (flaw) as with the 900 sleds. On ours it is either recommended to leave out the bottom inaccessible bolt, or to use a small grinder or drill bit to grind a small notch in the frame so you can gain clear access to the bolt head for future service:beer;
 
Update: cover off without pulling engine

Finally. After "modifying" a couple of allen wrenches, the cover is off without removing the engine. Those two bolts will not be going back in!

Drilling "access" holes didn't really seem feasible because of the casting webs in the bulkhead.

Now I just need to figure out how to wind the recoil spring tension back on.

Following the service manual doesn't seem to make sense.....

hhmmmmm...... I've been accused of being a short bus rider before....
 
Assuming the design of the recoil has not changed, you should be able to wind the rope onto the wheel, then drop the wheel into the housing turning it clockwise until it drops in and engages the spring. Then give it 2 full turns counter-clockwise before feeding the rope out of the housing. Then continue to re-assemble with the pawl spring and pawl, followed by the center (cover) spring, plastic wing that engages the pawl, and the cover plate.

I just had to service mine on Monday due to a stuck pawl.
 
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Assuming the design of the recoil has not changed, you should be able to wind the rope onto the wheel, then drop the wheel into the housing turning it clockwise until it drops in and engages the spring. Then give it 2 full turns counter-clockwise before feeding the rope out of the housing. Then continue to re-assemble with the pawl spring and pawl, followed by the center (cover) spring, plastic wing that engages the pawl, and the cover plate.

I just had to service mine on Monday due to a stuck pawl.

Waaaaay easier said than done! I never got one back together withoug taking the assembly in to have the experts do it. I'm in the front seat of the short bus man!
 
Waaaaay easier said than done! I never got one back together withoug taking the assembly in to have the experts do it. I'm in the front seat of the short bus man!


LOL, front seat eh, haha:beer;


I just finished a complete write-up including pictures on the procedure in the 900 forum since I just went through it on my sled on Monday.

It is not difficult, you just have to go slow and pay close attention to how you take the unit apart.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264857
 
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Recoil is back in.... and works.

The angle is too great to go through the slot...ball tip hex head drivers just slip off.

Had to custom cut long allen so they could fit depth wise behind the bulkhead.

Not putting those bottom two bolts back in....

F*CK NO!
 
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