Replacing clutch weight bushings

[jman94]

Hi all!

Tonight I started doing preseason maintenance on my 08 700 RMK's clutch and noticed that 2 of the 3 weights had left to right slop in them. There was one weight that was really bad and had wear on the actual weight itself (in the attached photos). Should I replace this one completely? Or would replacing the bushing be enough? MY dial calipers measured the same size so not enough was shaved off to make a difference I'd think. This is my first time playing around with any clutch work so I'm kinda flying blind here.

Also, would changing weights from 10-60's help performance at all? I usually ride from 3k-7k max elevation.

 

[retiredpop]

They do have a slight amount of side to side movement. If they rock on the pivot pin then you have to replace the weight. Bushings are not replaceable. If in doubt I would just replace the weights. On the weight you think is worn badly has it started to wear into the aluminum casting in which the pivot pin mounts?

Here is an excerpt from the service manual:

Remove all three drive clutch weights.
16. Inspect each weight. The surface should be smooth, with no
waves or galling. Place bolt inside weight to check
flyweight bushing and pin surface for wear by rocking the
weight back and forth.
17. Inspect all the rollers, bushings and roller pins by pulling a
flat metal rod across the roller.
18. Roller can also be inspected by rolling with a finger to feel
for flat spots, roughness, or loose bushing.
NOTE: The flyweight bushing is not replaceable. If
flyweight bushing is damaged both the flyweight, pin
and nut will need to be replaced.
19. Inspect to see if the roller and bushing are separating.
20. Bushing must fit tightly in roller.
21. Replace roller and pin if roller fails to roll smoothly (no flat
spots) or if the bushing is loose or worn.

 

[slash]

The bushings are replaceable you can get a tool kit and bushings from SLP.
# 40-216 tool #40-200 for a 3 pack of bushings.

 

[retiredpop]

The bushings are replaceable you can get a tool kit and bushings from SLP.
# 40-216 tool #40-200 for a 3 pack of bushings.

I did not know that. Sorry jman94 for the misinformation on my response.

 

[Trenchmaster]

I tried to replace the bushings in my clutch weights with the SLP tool and found that they would not go all the way in before the edge of the bushing crushed and deformed. I ended up taking a (1/4"-5/16") don't remember exact size drill bit and reaming out the hole in the weight ( just turned the drill bit by hand backwards) and the bushing would go all the way in. Think Polaris does this so you have to replace the whole weight instead of replacing bushings?

 

[volcano buster]

I have changed out several sets of bushings. WPS carries them as well.

You might also want to purchase some side shims as well. This will help keep the arm from wearing into the soft aluminum clutch as well. I usually get one in, run for maybe 800-1000 miles then I can get two in, one on each side of the weight.

When installing one, put it behind the weight as it spins as this is the thrust side causing most of the wear.


http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Clutch_Service_Items.html

 

[jman94]

Thanks for all the information.. I'll look into getting the bushings and slp tool today.

 

[skibreeze]

I'd order extra bushings, just in case you end up crushing one. It does take some practice.

 

[mtncat1]

i don't use a special tool I just take an old weight pin and grind down the head until its slightly smaller than the od of the bushing then I use that to drive the old one out then use it do drive the new one in. I've never damaged a bushing this way. and it is very easy to do

 

[sled_guy]

The trick to not mashing the new bushings is to make sure the bore in the weight is clean. I use a piece of scotch brite on a drill motor. Then I heat the clutch weight up a little bit, not super hot, but warm it up so its hot to the touch, on the end with the hole in it. I then use an arbor press and the pin bushing tool and they go right in.

sled_guy

 

[jman94]

Replaced the bushings last night... The SLP tool made it super simple. Pressed out the old bushing with the vise, cleaned the bore with some brake clean and a drill but by hand, then pressed in the new one. No smashed bushings. Thanks for all the input! The one that was really sloppy was almost worn all the way through, glad I replaced them.