I'm thinking of going to a 144", any body have any thoughts of what is a good mountain track? How hard is it to cut down to size or does AD or any one have the stock 144" mountain track for sale? This is my first snow any thing,,, my track knowledge is fairly basic..
Replacement Tracks
- Thread starter SnowDunes
- Start date
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
Camoplast Challenger off an XP.
Heres your instructions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hmsFQ37APk
When do you want to pick up your clutch?
Heres your instructions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hmsFQ37APk
When do you want to pick up your clutch?
clutch..
do I need the replacemect Jack shaft too fro the arctic cat roller???
do I need the replacemect Jack shaft too fro the arctic cat roller???
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
Needs and wants, damn strait you need it!
Scroll down the forum to things brought to Hawk Fest, Sledr2 can hook you up by giving you the shaft, buy his lower one while your "taking" the other!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAa5rP64YbQ
Scroll down the forum to things brought to Hawk Fest, Sledr2 can hook you up by giving you the shaft, buy his lower one while your "taking" the other!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAa5rP64YbQ
T
TLKDPROD
Well-known member
White surf's got some already cut down/profiled down 144" tracks. Think they're 2.52" pitch. Reasonable price for a track that's got quite a bit of work done to it already. http://www.whitesurf.ca/aftermarket.php
My bet would be to go to the newer style Challenger Extreme 3" pitch, 2.5" lug 144", cut it down and profile it down to your taste. If you have a 600 and gonna stick with it, go with the ones whitesurf's got, apparently the 3.0" pitch tracks really puts a very high load on the system (Gonna find out on my own this year)... and might be too much for the 600 engine to spin at a decent speed.
I'd also suggest you swiss cheese it for it to bend easier around the idler wheels. If you get new extensions made up, get them kustom so you can put 8" idlers wheels, should free an HP or two.
My bet would be to go to the newer style Challenger Extreme 3" pitch, 2.5" lug 144", cut it down and profile it down to your taste. If you have a 600 and gonna stick with it, go with the ones whitesurf's got, apparently the 3.0" pitch tracks really puts a very high load on the system (Gonna find out on my own this year)... and might be too much for the 600 engine to spin at a decent speed.
I'd also suggest you swiss cheese it for it to bend easier around the idler wheels. If you get new extensions made up, get them kustom so you can put 8" idlers wheels, should free an HP or two.
I checked with ADB last week, and they no longer sell the 144" track or the needed rail extensions. They do stock the 136" track and rail extensions, and quoted me the price of $750 for both.
Good luck,
AkBillyBow
Good luck,
AkBillyBow
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
To who you or them.
AD B owns the right to their specific pattented arched 121", 136", and even the ultra rare 128" that were on the prototype 07's.
I tried to get Camoplast at a snow show in NY to duplicate it for us in a softer compound three years ago, the rep said "NO"!
If you are a flatlander riding hard pack I feel for you guys, your running "out" of options.
Try to find someone who bought a Polaris Assault last year. If they rode powder mostly their probably kicking that hard dessert track to the curb. Make a jig or pattern and duplicate the AD B.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPa3cblkaTU&feature=related
A new mountain track for any sled costs around $700.00, new is new!
A softer side. http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173661
AD B owns the right to their specific pattented arched 121", 136", and even the ultra rare 128" that were on the prototype 07's.
I tried to get Camoplast at a snow show in NY to duplicate it for us in a softer compound three years ago, the rep said "NO"!
If you are a flatlander riding hard pack I feel for you guys, your running "out" of options.
Try to find someone who bought a Polaris Assault last year. If they rode powder mostly their probably kicking that hard dessert track to the curb. Make a jig or pattern and duplicate the AD B.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPa3cblkaTU&feature=related
A new mountain track for any sled costs around $700.00, new is new!
A softer side. http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173661
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Track Ignoramous here
I am ignorant of the track stuff like pitch..etc. I'm looking on line for a single ply camoplast mountain track. I think I want o buy this:
9145M single-ply
Dimensions: 15" x 146"
Profile height: 2.5"
Weight: 52 lbs
Drive pitch 2.86"
Use: Full Powder / Firm Snow
Besides the cutting, will this work?... I am thinking I like the 146" as it will allow big wheels at the rear of the skid and bring it around the equivalant of a 144" agree -disagree?
WTF does "Drive pitch" refer to any way..
Thanks in advance for you input!
I am ignorant of the track stuff like pitch..etc. I'm looking on line for a single ply camoplast mountain track. I think I want o buy this:
9145M single-ply
Dimensions: 15" x 146"
Profile height: 2.5"
Weight: 52 lbs
Drive pitch 2.86"
Use: Full Powder / Firm Snow
Besides the cutting, will this work?... I am thinking I like the 146" as it will allow big wheels at the rear of the skid and bring it around the equivalant of a 144" agree -disagree?
WTF does "Drive pitch" refer to any way..
Thanks in advance for you input!
T
TLKDPROD
Well-known member
"Pitch" usually refers to the distance in between 2 "tooth" !
What that means for chain : let's take "#50 chain". The "5" in the number 50 means 5/8 of an inch. Same applies for #40 chain, 4/8 of an inch = 1/2" pitch.
That means you have a distance of 5/8" in between each of the pins on a #50 chain.
On a track, "pitch" refers to the distance in between each lug (teeth) or the distance in between each window. Stock pitch is 2.52", so what that means for your particular case is that your drivers, (sprockets) will have to match that larger, 2.86" pitch.
So in simple, you need new driver sprockets that has a distance of 2.86" between each teeth in order to drive that track. You need to take your driveshaft off anyway to put your new track in. Drivers are around 90$ each if i'm not wrong.
Besides that, it would sure work good.
What that means for chain : let's take "#50 chain". The "5" in the number 50 means 5/8 of an inch. Same applies for #40 chain, 4/8 of an inch = 1/2" pitch.
That means you have a distance of 5/8" in between each of the pins on a #50 chain.
On a track, "pitch" refers to the distance in between each lug (teeth) or the distance in between each window. Stock pitch is 2.52", so what that means for your particular case is that your drivers, (sprockets) will have to match that larger, 2.86" pitch.
So in simple, you need new driver sprockets that has a distance of 2.86" between each teeth in order to drive that track. You need to take your driveshaft off anyway to put your new track in. Drivers are around 90$ each if i'm not wrong.
Besides that, it would sure work good.
Thanks for setting me straight
thanks Theiry... - P.S. The money order is on the way!
thanks Theiry... - P.S. The money order is on the way!
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More questiions....
I want a single ply track, which are only available in 2.86" or 3.0" pitch.
So..... my 600 has a 9 tooth 2.52" pitch drivers
and...
9 X 2.52" = 22.68" Circumference
and
22.68" / 3.147 (Pi) = 7.2" diameter
For clearance and gearing reasons, I should keep roughly the same diameter drivers, correct?
so I should purchase an 8 tooth 2.86" driver because...
8 X 2.86" = 22.86" Circumference
and
22.88 / 3.147 (Pi) = 7.27" Diameter
Is my thinking right on this?
Thanks for all your help for this newb!
I want a single ply track, which are only available in 2.86" or 3.0" pitch.
So..... my 600 has a 9 tooth 2.52" pitch drivers
and...
9 X 2.52" = 22.68" Circumference
and
22.68" / 3.147 (Pi) = 7.2" diameter
For clearance and gearing reasons, I should keep roughly the same diameter drivers, correct?
so I should purchase an 8 tooth 2.86" driver because...
8 X 2.86" = 22.86" Circumference
and
22.88 / 3.147 (Pi) = 7.27" Diameter
Is my thinking right on this?
Thanks for all your help for this newb!
somthing to keep in mind is 2.52 pitch is going to be the fastest,3 pitch is going to be lighter for the same size track and performe better in soft powder but cant turn as quick as 2.52 and 2.8 is going to be inbetween so if you do lots of trail rideing and want top speed go with 2.52, mostly powder go with 3",and dont get a camoplast light as they will blow the paddles off there is a reason they are all over so cheap.......
T
TLKDPROD
Well-known member
You're right on the clearance thing, you either have to get same size or smaller size driver. You might have to go down on the gearing a bit though because the 144 track will put a lot more load on the system and you might find it doesn't recover track speed as fast compared to the stock 32-56 (or 28-56) gearing. You might have to go down on the helix angle too. I'd sugest you get the 8 tooth 2.86" pitch extrovert drivers and go down to 2.15 (13-28) on the gearing with a chain drive system (according to me, chain drive is an investment, not a spending like a spare cog belt...). Hexagon size of the drivers bore have to be 1-1/4" across flats just so you know when you order them !
You might have to profile the lugs on the side of the track so it clears the elbow section of the tunnel of at least 1/4 to 3/8".
As I said to a friend about my new track : "That should get me going way further
face-icon-small-coo) before I get really stuck real bad face-icon-small-fro) and then I'll need a little time alone with myself and shovel face-icon-small-dis)... !" That will kind of apply to you as well with a 146" ! Good choice of deep snow track by the way.Good luck !
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
3 out of four.
Snowmennis and I burned some rubber today.
One sixteen inch wide 144" 2" factory ported, half clipped 07' REV 800, now missing 1.5 inches on each side . Now 40.5lbs
Two 2000' Yamaha MM 700 141" 2" original warranty takeoffs, first was our practice cutter. Now both 13" wide, but being seven years older, a different harder compound, and fully clipped now 50lbs each.
Will be removing every other row of clips like the 144", and swiss cheesing next. I purchased them both at our snow show for fifty $ a piece, for practice, cracks and all!
Prepare by using three persons, one holding an end down, and the others forcing it to roll inside out.
Our first run was setting the fence on the table saw the distance of the material we wanted off 1-1.5", too hard to keep strait and constant binding and blade cleaning.
Best was setting fence full width minus half of material being removed from each side. AD B went max 13.25" on 08' mountain models but hard cornering wears against frame rails, 13" max desired. 16" track needs 1.5" removed each side, 15" - 1" each side, quite simple. Raise blade up into track to start cut, each lug is reinforced by fiberglass bar and will bounce if not kept flat, sharp blade is a good idea, ours was missing a few carbides at the end. 10" Bosch Table saw used, three pairs safety glasses.
Once or twice doing the wide cuts we stopped and cleaned the blade and table. Shop vac picked up the debri while each person was feeding, pulling, and supporting track. periodic WD40 for lubrication, also acts as a solvent for melted rubber on blade sides.
We have not decided yet to cut triangle off edge lugs like AD B 144/151/159" machines, might try a different idea leaving full lug but cutting bottom in from edge 1.5-2" so it could collapse during leaning on hardpack, yet flip back to full width in the soft stuff. Back to clutching!
Reference, stock 121" Snow Hawk arched profile track is 36.5lbs, 136" can't be five more.
Carefull!
Snowmennis and I burned some rubber today.
One sixteen inch wide 144" 2" factory ported, half clipped 07' REV 800, now missing 1.5 inches on each side . Now 40.5lbs
Two 2000' Yamaha MM 700 141" 2" original warranty takeoffs, first was our practice cutter. Now both 13" wide, but being seven years older, a different harder compound, and fully clipped now 50lbs each.
Will be removing every other row of clips like the 144", and swiss cheesing next. I purchased them both at our snow show for fifty $ a piece, for practice, cracks and all!
Prepare by using three persons, one holding an end down, and the others forcing it to roll inside out.
Our first run was setting the fence on the table saw the distance of the material we wanted off 1-1.5", too hard to keep strait and constant binding and blade cleaning.
Best was setting fence full width minus half of material being removed from each side. AD B went max 13.25" on 08' mountain models but hard cornering wears against frame rails, 13" max desired. 16" track needs 1.5" removed each side, 15" - 1" each side, quite simple. Raise blade up into track to start cut, each lug is reinforced by fiberglass bar and will bounce if not kept flat, sharp blade is a good idea, ours was missing a few carbides at the end. 10" Bosch Table saw used, three pairs safety glasses.
Once or twice doing the wide cuts we stopped and cleaned the blade and table. Shop vac picked up the debri while each person was feeding, pulling, and supporting track. periodic WD40 for lubrication, also acts as a solvent for melted rubber on blade sides.
We have not decided yet to cut triangle off edge lugs like AD B 144/151/159" machines, might try a different idea leaving full lug but cutting bottom in from edge 1.5-2" so it could collapse during leaning on hardpack, yet flip back to full width in the soft stuff. Back to clutching!
Reference, stock 121" Snow Hawk arched profile track is 36.5lbs, 136" can't be five more.
Carefull!
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Snowmennis and I burned some rubber today.
10" Bosch Table saw used,
Carefull!
Got a pic of you with three pairs of glasses on?
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
I was wearing the saw!
The other two were laying on the track, the glasses were for an emergency, Jim Beam was wearing them!
The other two were laying on the track, the glasses were for an emergency, Jim Beam was wearing them!
T
TLKDPROD
Well-known member
My 14" by 150" Camo Extreme 3.0 pitch, 2.5" lug, fully clipped, "unswisscheesed" was topping the scale at 46lbs.
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
That's why I bought practice tracks.
I charged the fellow who bought my 121" of the "NEW" 503F full boat, $700.
An old used 141" is hard to find, the rubber hardens over time. Artic Cat M7's came in 141".
When I figure out which, 141/144" is best I'm buying brand new Challengers or what ever comes next.
I bet we could go further than just porting, the newer mountain tracks are clipped every other, maybe remove every other alternating left to right ones. Except for you flatlanders and a few guys running their tracks too tight, I never hear of mountain Hawks needing new hyfax's, even well used 02' machines.
I charged the fellow who bought my 121" of the "NEW" 503F full boat, $700.
An old used 141" is hard to find, the rubber hardens over time. Artic Cat M7's came in 141".
When I figure out which, 141/144" is best I'm buying brand new Challengers or what ever comes next.
I bet we could go further than just porting, the newer mountain tracks are clipped every other, maybe remove every other alternating left to right ones. Except for you flatlanders and a few guys running their tracks too tight, I never hear of mountain Hawks needing new hyfax's, even well used 02' machines.
T
