removing trackshaft nut brake side wtf????

[White Rad]

Wanted to remove my track by dropping the trackshaft from the brake side instead of removing the DD but wtf the trackshaft nut is stamped onto the shaft. How are you supposed to remove this thing? (I already made my own glorified 4 point spanner socket to fit) If i can punch it out and remove it would never want to put the same nut back on either. maybe pulling the DD will be easier....

 

[hatchers]

ive down it every diffent way and its way easier to remove the brake vs the DD.....but that nut is a bugger and even harder to get back on, hammer/punch hit mine a million times, looks like crap but it works just fine

 

[alaskastyle828]

They make a socket to take that collar off. If you are like me and bought the socket because I change from stock to power claw on my XF1000 all season. If you are just going to change it once, beat that thing with a hammer and flat head and get it off. Put that divet back on the threads when you go back together, it will back off if you don't.

 

[White Rad]

i think my homemade socket will work but how does it come off w/ that divet in there? won't it just eat the threads on the shaft if you try and spin it off of can you pound it out w/ small punch?

 

[M-Rider]

when I changed my track shaft(upgraded to diamond lite drive), I had to cut it off w/ a dremmel tool. luckily bdx provided a replacement nut with the diamond lite drive package. good luck.

 

[Qreiff]

when I changed my track shaft(upgraded to diamond lite drive), I had to cut it off w/ a dremmel tool. luckily bdx provided a replacement nut with the diamond lite drive package. good luck.

I have the BDX socket to remove and ..............when used with quality Cornwell Tool (Thanks Ski-laxn!!) air ratchet, it comes right off.......NO DAMAGE. I did installa new "shaft nut" as recommended, and punched a divet in the side because, I too, was told it would back off if not.



BTW.............all is perfect!

 

[polarisfornow]

you guys might think I'm crazy for doin it this way but I disassemble the the brake caliper first. Its like four allen head bolts. then use a fairly large pipe wrench to back the nut off. then reassemble it the same way and bleed the brake. Its the best way to do it if you want to reuse the nut and not have to buy then special socket.

 

[chevster12]

i use a a air hammer with a dull chisel end and it works perfect done it a million times and never had a problam

 

[Ausm7499]

I don't recall my nut being smashed that bad but I took it off with an air gun and I used the same socket I use for the wheel bearings on my pickup. As far as the nut backing off I have removed and reinstalled the same nut probably 20 times and it has never backed off on me. The only purpose of this nut is to hold the rotor on the shaft so its not really under any stress. Also I just got my Diamond lite the other day from BDX and they do not include a replacement nut.

 

[sledtahoe]

dd

save yourself the headache and just take the dd out it is like 7 nuts, you would be done by now much easier....JMO

 

[diggerdown]

I've worked on a lot of stuff with the locking flange like you have. All you do is grind a center punch into a small cheisel and tap it under the flange at the key way. It lifts the bump right out of it and turn the nut off. Just another way of making it a locking nut.

 

[moderatebill]

you are crazy pulling the brake appart to change tracks. Pull the DD and free up the hole brake assembly, the track slips right out. 1 hour job!

 

[White Rad]

I've worked on a lot of stuff with the locking flange like you have. All you do is grind a center punch into a small cheisel and tap it under the flange at the key way. It lifts the bump right out of it and turn the nut off. Just another way of making it a locking nut.

Pretty much what i ended up doing and it spun right off using my spanner socket for the old dodge hubs. 4-5 bolts to pull the brake and disc, a few bolts on the rear skid, had that track outta there in >20min. not sure how it gets any easier then that! My DD has mech. reverse so it also requires pulling footrest cover and disconnecting shift actuator.

 

[Ausm7499]

Pretty much what i ended up doing and it spun right off using my spanner socket for the old dodge hubs. 4-5 bolts to pull the brake and disc, a few bolts on the rear skid, had that track outta there in >20min. not sure how it gets any easier then that! My DD has mech. reverse so it also requires pulling footrest cover and disconnecting shift actuator.

I agree if you have mechanical reverse it is easier to pull from the brake side. If you don't have mechanical reverse it probably a toss up between which way is faster.

 

[heathkiks]

For anyone else wondering... When i took the nut off without altering the dent, I seriously screwed up the threads on the shaft.

 

[richardsb014]

Pulled 2 tracks this week and changed them (my wife’s 07 Crossfire to a 144”, and my M8 to a powerclaw). Used the spanner wrench and a ½ breaker bar, and just backed the nut off. No big issue since the nut is softer metal then the shaft. Put the nuts back on, torqued them, and just re-peened them to the notch in the shaft with a screwdriver.

I pulled the diamond drives to get the drive shafts out. I recommend doing it that way every time.

 

[RichardCranium]

when reinstalling the nut i didn't bother smashing it back down just added a healthy amount of loctite...so far so good

 

[Destroyer]

Our dealer has had trouble with some nuts being punched too far. Beyond being able to work with it. They have screwed up the the threads on a couple of shafts. But you just have to be careful. It's not really hard. Like said above use something to get the notch out of the nut. or cut it. Nuts are cheap.



Get a small chisel and pry out the punched part of the nut the best you can. Use or make a tool to get the nut off with an impact. If the threads do get a bit screwed up, use a thread file to clean them up. Lube a new nut before you re-assemble and everything should be fine.

 

[vdo1948]

White Rad thanks for the picture. Replaced my brake rotor on my '05 M a year ago and changed from the original style nut to this newer style. Repair manual for the '05 says nothing about peening the nut, so I just tightened it up. After 2 hours of riding I would find it in the belly pan. Put it back on 3 or 4 times all with the same result so I just gave up and took it off. The rotor is captured in the calipers, so I didn't think it was going anywhere. Was going to clean it and try to locktite it before the first ride this year. Now between the pic and the discussion I know the correct way to deal with it. Thanks all!

 

[White Rad]

So to summarize

If you want to remove your track, doing it from the brake side may be easier. But you will either need the cat tool, BDX socket, or 4pt spanner socket to get the nut off. If you should be doing some maintenance on your DD and don't have the tools, may as well pull the DD.

If you don't find the trackshaft nut laying in the belly pan when you open up the brake side, you should assume it has been stamped onto the shaft.

If the stamped groove is too deep and you try to just spin the nut off may bugger up your shaft threads, so it is best to take a small chisel and try and tap out the stamped part of the nut some or cut it off.

The nut will self destruct somewhat when you spin it off so may be advisable to get a new one, but regardless, make sure what ever nut you put back on gets torqued to 120ft/lbs and stamped into the grove on the shaft or it will come off.

Speaking of snow is here and i need to get my track back on !!!!!!