Removing Recoil to Replace Rope!

[Jbgough123]

Any actual picture guides or procedures on how to remove the axys recoil and rewind the rope or tips and tricks(some say the motor mounts have to come and some say it can be avoided)? Seems like it's gonna be a lot harder of a battle to do then on my last sled (2004 Rev Renegade). 2016 Pro Rmk Axys 2.6" belt drive model, nothing is wrong with the current oem setup but I have a cobra pull cord rope and handle to go on just for peace of mind and for a little extra bling since I have no e-start I may as well make sure the pull start is as reliable as possible! Thanks : )

 

[ak]

Remove the muffler Pull the 4 motor mount and pry up the one side and pull the recoil bolts. It's a very easy process. Have good allensockets.

 

[Flyn Or Dyn]

Recoil removal

Drill 2 1/2" holes in the aluminum side structure for the two Allen bolts that are not easy to get to.that will make it easier to get the Allen bolts out.then the recoil comes right off.the other 6 are not even a problem

 

[AndrettiDog]

Remove the muffler Pull the 4 motor mount and pry up the one side and pull the recoil bolts. It's a very easy process. Have good allensockets.

You only need to pull two so that the motor pivots on the other two with a pry bar.

 

[LPIdaho]

And then dont put the bottom two bolts back in when you reassemble

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Lorduss]

when you pop the recoil spring out, you better have some extreme patience reinstalling if you have never done it before
I just did mine yesterday because I replaced the recoil rope to new on the pull start while the motor was out


after hours of messing around, and throwing a few tools across the garage I found a method that worked in about 10 min total, then realized I did it backwards and had to redo it


PM me if you want for a detailed description if you cant get it

 

[LoudHandle]

Replacing recoil rope

You do not need to disassemble the recoil to change the rope out. That is why they put the small notch is in the Outside Diameter of the inboard side of the sheave, 180 degrees from the knot pocket. FWIW

You have two options:


If the rope has broken / unintentional retract? Remove the silicone plug around the knot. Remove old rope. Insert new rope, turn the rope sheave CCW until the rope can be put in the notch, continue CCW another 6-10 turns (until the spring tension feels right). Hold the sheave to the housing while putting the other end of the rope thru the housing grommet. Remove the slack and let the spring rewind the rope. Verify spring tension is adequate to hold a full sheave of rope and functions correctly. If you need more or less spring force use the notch and adjust it. Repour the silicone / RTV plug if desired.

If rope has not broken? Remove the silicone plug around the knot. Pull the rope all the way out (like you were pulling to start the engine). Hold Sheave to housing to not lose spring tension. Remove old rope (grab the knot and pull out backwards). Insert new rope (likely easier to tie the knot in one end, thread other end thru knot pocket in sheave and out thru the housing grommet) and let the spring do it's job . Verify spring tension is adequate to hold a full sheave of rope and functions correctly. Repour the silicone / RTV plug if desired.

Optional; If you want a little insurance to an unintentional retract and the exposed rope path is clear of obstructions, you can tie another low stress knot (like a figure 8) between the handle and the recoil housing.

 

[Lorduss]

You do not need to disassemble the recoil to change the rope out. That is why they put the small notch is in the Outside Diameter of the inboard side of the sheave, 180 degrees from the knot pocket. FWIW

You have two options:


If the rope has broken / unintentional retract? Remove the silicone plug around the knot. Remove old rope. Insert new rope, turn the rope sheave CCW until the rope can be put in the notch, continue CCW another 6-10 turns (until the spring tension feels right). Hold the sheave to the housing while putting the other end of the rope thru the housing grommet. Remove the slack and let the spring rewind the rope. Verify spring tension is adequate to hold a full sheave of rope and functions correctly. If you need more or less spring force use the notch and adjust it. Repour the silicone / RTV plug if desired.

If rope has not broken? Remove the silicone plug around the knot. Pull the rope all the way out (like you were pulling to start the engine). Hold Sheave to housing to not lose spring tension. Remove old rope (grab the knot and pull out backwards). Insert new rope (likely easier to tie the knot in one end, thread other end thru knot pocket in sheave and out thru the housing grommet) and let the spring do it's job . Verify spring tension is adequate to hold a full sheave of rope and functions correctly. Repour the silicone / RTV plug if desired.

Optional; If you want a little insurance to an unintentional retract and the exposed rope path is clear of obstructions, you can tie another low stress knot (like a figure 8) between the handle and the recoil housing.

wish I did this instead of full disassembly like I did last week, I wasted some hours rewinding that spring and everything


awesome tech tip

 

[RobertTrivanovic]

You do not need to disassemble the recoil to change the rope out. That is why they put the small notch is in the Outside Diameter of the inboard side of the sheave, 180 degrees from the knot pocket. FWIW

You have two options:


If the rope has broken / unintentional retract? Remove the silicone plug around the knot. Remove old rope. Insert new rope, turn the rope sheave CCW until the rope can be put in the notch, continue CCW another 6-10 turns (until the spring tension feels right). Hold the sheave to the housing while putting the other end of the rope thru the housing grommet. Remove the slack and let the spring rewind the rope. Verify spring tension is adequate to hold a full sheave of rope and functions correctly. If you need more or less spring force use the notch and adjust it. Repour the silicone / RTV plug if desired.

If rope has not broken? Remove the silicone plug around the knot. Pull the rope all the way out (like you were pulling to start the engine). Hold Sheave to housing to not lose spring tension. Remove old rope (grab the knot and pull out backwards). Insert new rope (likely easier to tie the knot in one end, thread other end thru knot pocket in sheave and out thru the housing grommet) and let the spring do it's job . Verify spring tension is adequate to hold a full sheave of rope and functions correctly. Repour the silicone / RTV plug if desired.

Optional; If you want a little insurance to an unintentional retract and the exposed rope path is clear of obstructions, you can tie another low stress knot (like a figure 8) between the handle and the recoil housing.

I really really wish I read this an hour ago. Just went to disassemble and the bolt in the center snapped off inside.... Its not a reverse thread is it? Any tricks to help get that out OTHER then a easy out....?

 

[LoudHandle]

I only drill as a last resort. Much easier to weld a nut to the broken shank and back it out. Plus the heat from welding will soften the loctite or corrosion that caused the bolt to break in the first place.

The other option is Alum spice in boiling water. Eats carbon steel but doesn’t touch the aluminum. Strip the housing, boil water in a pan big enough for the recoil and add Alum. Put the recoil in and remove when the remains of the bolt are gone.