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Removing Nytro engine advice

R

redbull660

Well-known member
I am thinking about puting a head shim in my 2008 turbo nytro. Is there any special tools that are needed to remove the engine. I looked at the repair manual and it says something about a special tool needed. Do ya need it or is there another way of doing it. thanks.
 
No special tools, just patience and someone to give you a hand. Pull the plastics and front clip off, remove the rear engine bolt first then the front two and walla. Ok, its alittle more detailed than that but easy enough to do in a evening for even the novice tool guy. have fun and take pics if your not familiar with what goes where. Have fun and take your time.
 
thanks, I might have to do it. I want to run a little more boost without having to always run race fuel or an additive.
 
I removed the engine without the tool, then built my own tool when I re-installed the engine. I took a 13mm socket and cut each side of it with a cutoff wheel so it would fit the rear spacer that needed tightened. Probably not necessary, but it made me feel better to tighten the spacer to the service manual specifications.
 
motor

I am thinking about puting a head shim in my 2008 turbo nytro. Is there any special tools that are needed to remove the engine. I looked at the repair manual and it says something about a special tool needed. Do ya need it or is there another way of doing it. thanks.

Food for thought Redbull, If you are going to actually pull the motor out to do a shim I would suggest putting Carillos Rods and low compression JE pistons in instead. The parts will cost you about $1600 but there are many advantages.

1. No chance of a head shim blowing out.
2. Better throttle response
3. Much easier on the motor due to the lower cumbustion temperatures
4. Of course with Rods and Pistons you will have a pretty much bulletproof motor and you can run 18-20 lbs all day long on 50/50 mix. The first thing to go usually is the Rods and if they go bad they will blow through the side of your block then your out $4000.00.

I did the shim and 2 head gaskets and I lost some lower end response plus I cannot run over 15 lbs. I wish I understood then what I do now, I would have done the motor work at the beginning and stuck with the stock gasket only.

Good luck

Motleyone
 
Thats some good advice, I might have to look into it. the major problem is I really dont want to be the one tearing the engine apart. I am a good mechanic but these 4 strokes are a little more intimidating than the 2 strokes.
 
Thats some good advice, I might have to look into it. the major problem is I really dont want to be the one tearing the engine apart. I am a good mechanic but these 4 strokes are a little more intimidating than the 2 strokes.

No Chit!!:D It can get intense and over the head of most of us
 
Motleyone, you say with a headshim you cannot run over 15lbs of boost, why do you say that? I have and probably always will with just a headshim with no problems at all and know many others as well? Just curious as to why you would say that? If i were running 20+ lbs everyday i would go rods and piston but if done correctly and torqued properly a motor with shim running 18 everyday will last just as long and have no problems related to the shim. This is just my experience and my .02
 
Thats some good advice, I might have to look into it. the major problem is I really dont want to be the one tearing the engine apart. I am a good mechanic but these 4 strokes are a little more intimidating than the 2 strokes.

hahaha, i know what you mean. When I got home and pulled the side panels off I was like" what the f*ck?"
 
sawyer

hahaha, i know what you mean. When I got home and pulled the side panels off I was like" what the f*ck?"

lmao......That is so true, I think everyone that has come from a two stoke and gets their four stoke apart for the first time was like," what the fu*ck is this!!" I know i said that. lol. When we started pulling my Apex apart my wife was leaving the house,when she came home the delta box was just coming off and those were her exact words to.lol "what the fu*ck are you guys doing"??:beer;
 
Did mine myself also ....nice to have a small picker or hoist to hold it while removing it.....take some pics....for future assembly of electrical placement ect ect:D
 
I completely tore down my YZ450f last Spring to get some practice with 4s. I'm even thinking about picking up a cheap older YZ400 or 426 and slapping a Garret 12 on it before I install my Impulse kit.
 
I pulled mine by myself. It's not any harder than a 2-stroke, just more time consuming.


Hey Nikolai, Just wondering why you pulled your motor? Did you get boost?


When we installed our headshims we did not even pull the motor, we just removed the back long bolt and rotated the motor forward. I could still access everything with a torque wrench and feeler guage. The only tricky part was getting to the chain tensioner.
 
Motleyone, you say with a headshim you cannot run over 15lbs of boost, why do you say that? I have and probably always will with just a headshim with no problems at all and know many others as well? Just curious as to why you would say that? If i were running 20+ lbs everyday i would go rods and piston but if done correctly and torqued properly a motor with shim running 18 everyday will last just as long and have no problems related to the shim. This is just my experience and my .02


Hey HYFLYR,

Maybe a misunderstanding, I did not say you cannot run over 15 lbs with a head shim. I just can't run over 15 lbs because I do not have the Rods and Pistons upgraded and I won't chance a blow up. Sorry for the confusion. Plenty of guys just up the octane on a shim and can run 15-20 lbs but they will eventually either lose a motor or blow out the shim. I am no expert on the subject but running a shim just adds more variables and potential issues. It is just safer and more reliable to run Low Comp Pistons and upgraded Rods which allow you to stick with the OEM head setup. Thanks to Dustin at Outlaw for his patience and awesome customer service.

As for pulling the motor and working on it I will find out this week how easy it is. A buddy and I did the shim and cam timing in March and it went smooth. You definately do not need to remove the motor to do the shim, just remove the motor mount bolts and rock the engine forward about 2-3 inches. This will allow plenty of access to the cams and head and will also make the silly Cam Chain Tensioner much easier to get at.(don't drop the chain). I do not think the Rods and Pistons will be much more difficult, just time consuming. I am by no means a gear head but I want to understand everything about my Turbo sled. I have it pulled apart down to the motor mount bolts including pulling all the fuel controller wiring and Prologger wiring so I understand where potential issues may come up and where to look when they do. I just labelled everything with masking tape, maybe I will post some pics.

I was very hesitant about working on my sled myself but glad I did.

GL

Motleyone
 
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Hey Nikolai, Just wondering why you pulled your motor? Did you get boost?


When we installed our headshims we did not even pull the motor, we just removed the back long bolt and rotated the motor forward. I could still access everything with a torque wrench and feeler guage. The only tricky part was getting to the chain tensioner.

No boost. I tore the sled completely apart so I could rebuild the tunnel and chassis to withstand the abuse :D ...and I'm powdercoating everything.
 
This is a little off the topic, but I've been curious to know if anyone has needed to adjust the valve clearances.
 
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