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Remove sway bar on wedge chassis?

I've read quite a few posts about removing the sway bar on the gen 2 chassis for mountain riding, to make it easier to pull over for easier side hilling and carving.

I haven't read anything about doing it with a wedge chassis though. Would the result be the same removing the sway bar from a wedge chassis? Anybody done it?
 
Removing the sway bar is a pretty common mod done on all makes.

I would say give it a shot... you can always put it back on. Maybe you could disconnect it and temporarily secure it out of the way while you take it for a test run (zip ties?).

All I did on my Gen II was remove the rear bolt from the trailing arms, pull the sway bar out of the arm, remove the bushings by drilling out the rivets and wiggle the bar around until it comes free (leave the arms disconnected and use a jack under the belly pan to change the geometry until you can pull the sway bar out). Standing on the sled in the shop it is surprising how much easier it is to throw it around.

Good luck!
 
I like yer thinking

sawsall, i did it the easy way:D

I used a cut-off wheel, slid right out.

Definitely remove the swaybar, free weight loss, easier maneuvering, free weight loss, no more swaybar clunk....suspension seems to cycle freer also.

I also ride and XLT, no swaybar. It is kinda fun to lean out on corners and ride on the outer ski. Really messes with your head........but fun.
 
My goal is easier side hilling and carving in deep powder. I would like to be able to lift one ski on a side hill with just one foot on the board and have the other leg free for balance. Right now I have a hard time lifting one ski even with both feet on the uphill board.
 
ok so the sway bar in the trailing arms right and undo the arms then cut? or unbolt is there any tricky crap or just that. is it quick enough to do when the old mans gone. he says to leave it stock but he dont know about the skis and the bigger lug track thanks to my friend i just sayd i left it over there so we could ride the next weekend and he wiped it out
 
ya all you have to do is take the rear bolts on the trailing arm off. if you know for shure you dont want it there then cut it, but once you cut it theres no putting it back together. if you think you maybe will want it back on i would say take the time to take it out. but that requires drilling the rivots taking the bushing off and flexing the plastics a little.
your choice hope that helps any other questions let me know done alot of this stuff on a 95 storm
 
All I did on my Gen II was remove the rear bolt from the trailing arms, pull the sway bar out of the arm, remove the bushings by drilling out the rivets and wiggle the bar around until it comes free (leave the arms disconnected and use a jack under the belly pan to change the geometry until you can pull the sway bar out).

x2
This is the best way to do it. Wedge chassis is basically the same as the gen 2 and you would follow this procedure. I am not a big fan of cutting stuff just to save a few minutes. If you like it removed then you can make some cover plates to fill the holes where the bushings were and keep the snow out of there.
 
drill out the rivets and pull the rear trailing arm bolt on one side it will come out, cutting it is not the best way and its reall not that much faster IMO
 
Yup...

DOOOO IT.......

Don't be skeered.......

You will be happy you did.......

If you for some reason decide that you liked it stock and need a replacement I am sure there are thousands of them laying in garages around the country that were removed and forgotten about. I have 4 of them in my shop........
 
yup, steel bar through the bulkhead to both trailing arms, in a plastic slider on the trailing arm behind the shock
 
I pulled swaybars out on my 1990 Indy 500, 1991 Indy 500, 1994 XLT, 1995 XLT and 2000 700 RMK. From 1994 and later it was a simple process as others have mentioned. Front spring rates were lower on the 90 and 91 so I cut the bar and used a stainless steel sleeve w/2 hair pins so that I could pin the two pieces in back in place when I was on the trail. When I got to the off trail stuff, I would pull the pins, remove the short section of swaybar and block and then ride.
To totally remove the bars from the early 90's chassis due to bulkhead clearances, it was easier to just cut the bar on each side and then slide the center out.
To plug the holes in the bulkhead I used the rubber plugs that are used to plug the clutch bolt access hole in the belly pan.
 
Would it make any difference if it's an xtra 12 front suspension? Removing the sway bar will still work as well? I'm getting ready to pull the sway bar from the xtra 10, but it looks like it will be a major PITA to get the bar out of the xtra 12 without cutting it. If I cut it though there will be no going back.
 
You could cut it on one side, remove the outboard section of the bar and the sider block from the trailing arm and ride it that way to see if that's to your liking. If it is than take out the rest of it. If not do the sleeve thing that I mentioned last night.
 
I removed my swaybar because i hit a rock and it was bent so i just took it out to try it without it. I really like it without it, its a little easier to carve with, but a little more tilty in turns on the trail... In hopes of making it a little better when jumping and haulin' *** on the trail i stiffened the shocks up quite a bit from where my ol' man had them and i really like it. I think it lands better when you jump it and land a little akward IMO
 
do it!

i have a aggressive chass. a 97 xcr 600 and i removed the sway bar, and i love it! powder turns and side hilling is alot nicer. but it is more tippy on trail turns and super rough stuff.
 
My 91 SKS doesnt have one but my 97 RMK does personally i dont like how it rides wit it in there to me it feels like it wants to tip over on you kinda scary when im used to not having one on the other
 
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