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Regular RMK Cooling Install on Pro- RMK

1

150+ or nothin

Well-known member
I am planning on possibly installing essentially a regular RMK cooling system on a 2013 Pro-RMK and I had a few questions:

1) Is it only adhesive that bonds the bulkhead cooler to the bulkhead? What type of adhesive is this? Where can I get all of the components to apply it the right way for the cheapest?
2) Will installing the regular RMK system on a pro void my warranty?
3) The coolant bottle on a regular RMK is listed as a "4 outlet" bottle. The pro is listed as a "3 outlet". Is it the same bottle on a regular RMK as a pro only the pro doesn't have all of the outlets drilled out or are they actually different?
 
Pro Ride Cooling

I thought about doing the same thing till a Polaris dealer in Island Park Idaho sold me a set of cable scratchers they work great. Temps stay down trail riding on or off trail and are nice when you back up no bending. I ride a Pro 800 2013 with original slides after 2200 miles on them. Sled has been great Original belts update done on drive shaft purchased new link belt for spare 2014 updated compound. Hope this helps.
 
The bottle may be able to be drilled for the front cooler return line. You'd also have to connect the front tunnel cooler to the blocked off head bypass on a Pro. On a non-Pro, the front tunnel cooler is always active - it is not thermostat controlled. The flow of coolant is circulating from the head to front cooler to bottle to water pump. The thermostat opens at 120F to activate the rear cooler, when needed. Thus lies the secret of much more consistent cooling in a non-Pro. An always active circuit, and a backup circuit thermostat controlled.

To hook up a front cooler stock, you are likely looking at a complete chassis disassembly - motor, track, driveshaft, tank, jackshaft would be my guess. Maybe the chaincase, too. Lotta work there. I would drop an additional rear cooler if I really wanted more capacity in a Pro.
 
I know the 2014 ski doo xm's and SP's have the front track cooler, Just looked a both of them this last weekend at one of my local dealers. Not sure about the cat's though.
 
Are you sure that I would have to pull the motor? I performed a similar install on my dragon without having to do so. I wouldn't call this an "easy" job but I think it took 3-4 hours. Compared to wrenching on cars in tight spots I think that sleds are a dream to work on.
 
Not sure, maybe drill from the track side, but she's tight in there. I know others have considered this too. Check to see if the fuel and timing maps are the same - just a hunch they may differ. Good luck.
 
gmustangt is that scratcher factory made to fit the ski or is it something you composed yourself? can you hook it back on the ski like you would on the rail? does it stay in place? any more pics?

My own creation, they hook back up on the ski.

image.jpg
 
last winter we rode a standard 12 rmk and a 13 pro rmk.according to polaris book the standard rmk only holds 1 quart more coolant than pro.our experience on a packed trail is the standard rmk stayed cooler for all of 30 seconds.the biggest factor for keeping them cool was to be pro active using the scratchers.this is just my experience with rmk cooling.
 
last winter we rode a standard 12 rmk and a 13 pro rmk.according to polaris book the standard rmk only holds 1 quart more coolant than pro.our experience on a packed trail is the standard rmk stayed cooler for all of 30 seconds.the biggest factor for keeping them cool was to be pro active using the scratchers.this is just my experience with rmk cooling.
good to know, nothing beets a side by side comparison
 
I ride with two stds and a 600 pro, plus my pro. The difference in cooling was surprising - with scratchers down, the pro will hit 175 and continue climbing in certain conditions, the stds would just run 130, period. 11 and 12 pros both do it. Low speed, hard snow, or a few inches of fluff, once you know the conditions, it's completely predictable. Speed is very important. If you can find some softer snow and spin enough up in the tunnel, she'll cool down fast, usually need at least 100ft. A half mile or two later, you're looking again. Or pack snow on the tunnel, if you have the space. JMPE.
 
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