REDLINE Engine Performance - Turbo..

[SylvanLaker]

Here is the first Turbo out of our shop.. We had to make up an oil catch to gather oil in the event of a roll over. (still thinking on how to mount it) The motor has Rods and custom camshafts and custom timing. It was a fun project and we used Dave @ Powderlites Kit. Very nice kit and Dave looked after us throught the whole build. I'd reccomend this kit to anyone looking to build one up. Also I've heard people debating on solution for an oil dump. THis setup we made should work quite well. I can sell anyone the kit if they are interested in this solution.

Dave, Sylvan Lake

 

[roughrider99]

almost looks like a sleeper, very nice. how much boost and hp? I'd deffinately be interested in an oil catch for an apex

 

[SylvanLaker]

almost looks like a sleeper, very nice. how much boost and hp? I'd deffinately be interested in an oil catch for an apex

The injectors need to be upgraded. Then the engine will have the fuel it needs & at 19 lbs max boost (with good fuel) I'd estimate in the 350hp range. tough to say exactly without dynoing it..

Dave

I could fab up a kit for an Apex but I'd need one in my shop to mock it up..

 

[Washy]

Has anyone checkout this. It closes when the sled is shut off to prevent oil form coming out of the oil tank. I have one sitting on my shelf. really nice kit.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=76357

 

[roughrider99]

that kit looks amazing, just so happens that i do need a tether switch also

 

[johnny be bad]

hard to see, but i had one built, right beside the intercooler!

 

[powdermuncher]

Like your catch can----- nice thinking--- stainless bottle

I used a lightning pro separator on the RX1 and did a small mod on it as well--
mounted it above the engine with a drain into the cylinder- head
They should still have the web site with pics.
Instead of the vent filter right on the box I did run the breather-hose with a filter straight down into the belly pan that way it never leaks a drop when upside down.

Note; the catch can needs to be above the engine with a drain -- that way you will never get oil in the bottom of the vent hose and try to vent through liquid - this will create back-pressure and you ended up with oil-burning issues. The drain into the head is a second vent point for the engine as well, much needed for a engine with lots of boost.

 

[SylvanLaker]

Like your catch can----- nice thinking--- stainless bottle

I used a lightning pro separator on the RX1 and did a small mod on it as well--
mounted it above the engine with a drain into the cylinder- head
They should still have the web site with pics.
Instead of the vent filter right on the box I did run the breather-hose with a filter straight down into the belly pan that way it never leaks a drop when upside down.

Note; the catch can needs to be above the engine with a drain -- that way you will never get oil in the bottom of the vent hose and try to vent through liquid - this will create back-pressure and you ended up with oil-burning issues. The drain into the head is a second vent point for the engine as well, much needed for a engine with lots of boost.

I thought of putting it above the oil tank but when it goes upside down it will ver whelm the capacity of the smaller catch tank and leak all over as it can just keep draining.. the catch tank has a tube in the middle that extends into the middle of the bottle like a wasp catcher. when upside down if above the tank it will fill the bottle untill the level reaches the height of the tube in the middle and start leaking out the vent. Because i placed it below it can only fill the tube, then when it is upright what is in the tube ends up on the loop on the bottom as you suggested. it it rolls again the amount of oil can't overwhelm the bottle. You're also right if left in there it will create pressure that is why we made it out of clear hose and have a quick relase on bottom of the catch bottle. So when you get oil in the hose on the bottom loop, you unhook the line at the bottle by hand and hold it above the oil tank and it all runs back in. I like the other guys kit but it relys on electronics and it if fails oil is everywhere and you have to use a tether. It real nice though. I designed mine so there is no possible way oil can come out ever. You just need to inspect it after a roll. I like the idea of the other kit. combining the ideas might be a perfect solution. I'll be testing it this weekend, I post on it..

 

[Washy]

The one thing that worried me about the solonoid valve is if you shut off your sled in the cold and there is a little bit of moisture in there it will freeze closed. I have my vent freeze off once on my mcx after following so close it was putting alot of moisture/snow dust through the sled. I pressuered up the main tank and started of push the oil return hose off the tank. Spewed oil out as well.

 

[tfrick821]

With that kit the valve closes when the motor is shut off aswell as the tether. it does notb rely on the tether. The one thing that worried me about the solonoid valve is if you shut off your sled in the cold and there is a little bit of moisture in there it will freeze closed. I have my vent freeze off once on my mcx after following so close it was putting alot of moisture/snow dust through the sled. I pressuered up the main tank and started of push the oil return hose off the tank. Spewed oil out as well.

It is a normally open valve, and only closes when the key is on and the tether is pulled. as soon as you turn off the key, regardless of whether the tether is pulled or not, the solenoid will open. I think his prototype was a normally closed valve but he realized that if the solenoid failed while the engine was running it would not allow ventilation. It is a pretty cool idea, wish I would have thought about it and sold the patent to yamaha.

 

[powdermuncher]

I thought of putting it above the oil tank but when it goes upside down it will ver whelm the capacity of the smaller catch tank and leak all over as it can just keep draining.. the catch tank has a tube in the middle that extends into the middle of the bottle like a wasp catcher. when upside down if above the tank it will fill the bottle untill the level reaches the height of the tube in the middle and start leaking out the vent. Because i placed it below it can only fill the tube, then when it is upright what is in the tube ends up on the loop on the bottom as you suggested. it it rolls again the amount of oil can't overwhelm the bottle. You're also right if left in there it will create pressure that is why we made it out of clear hose and have a quick relase on bottom of the catch bottle. So when you get oil in the hose on the bottom loop, you unhook the line at the bottle by hand and hold it above the oil tank and it all runs back in. I like the other guys kit but it relys on electronics and it if fails oil is everywhere and you have to use a tether. It real nice though. I designed mine so there is no possible way oil can come out ever. You just need to inspect it after a roll. I like the idea of the other kit. combining the ideas might be a perfect solution. I'll be testing it this weekend, I post on it..

Looks like you thought it through well.

What I did to not overwhelm the catch bottle is the hose to (the actually vent filter to atmosphere) goes from the very top of the catch can (above the engine) to the bottom of the cowl , so if upside down everything can fill up with oil but now the breather filter is at the very top---- of the now upside down sled--- now put it right side up and everything drains back into the engine and oil tank --- the most you could ever loose is a ounce or so( whatever may be in the hose---I have never really seen any mess down there.
Like the old fuel tank vent lines where they go from one side to the other of the sled and than to the bottom that way they never leake fuel no mater what way you roll the sled.

Cheers.........