SaskRMK and I are redoing my top end because of low compression. We are at the point of removing injectors and the motor is still bolted in. Can the injectors be removed without rolling the motor forward? If so are there any tips or tricks to removing with injectors to get the pots off?
Rebuilding 06 900 top end question!
- Thread starter Sask900
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H
High Velocity
Well-known member
Honestly, I wouldn't even attempt a top end rebuild on an '06 in chassis. For the little extra time, remove the engine and rebuild it on the bench.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
S
SaskRMK
Active member
thanks for the quick reply and your honest opinion. If one were to replace the top end while the motor was still in the chassis what would this involve? accessing and removing the injectors and rail look to be a nightmare.
the sled is already partially torn down. would you please let me know what is involved to remove the engine from the chassis if it must be done.
Thanks
the sled is already partially torn down. would you please let me know what is involved to remove the engine from the chassis if it must be done.
Thanks
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H
High Velocity
Well-known member
When I rebuilt my '06 900, I pulled the engine. Remove fuel tank, primary clutch, all wiring, hosing, exhaust, throttle cable, etc. Remove 3/8" bolts from rear engine mounts and 5/16" bolts from front mount crossmember. Lift out engine. It's a little more in-depth than my description, but that's the direction to go.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
You can use a winch and ladder,, just have it up out of chassis by about a foot,, you can leave allot still connected.
M
monster715
Well-known member
I agree.....you are gonna have to pull the motor. Being an 06 - its the 4 injector engine. Even if you could access the top two injectors in the cylinders....you wont be able to move the fuel rail enough to get them out. To which you would have to get the bottom ones out which is pretty much impossible.
Not to mention - if the motor has never been out of the chassis....that would be a great opportunity to check and/or replace the motor mounts (known for going bad) along with checking your oil pump cable (also known for going bad).
I just got done putting the motor back in my 06 as well. Not that bad at all. I have actually had that 900 out a few times.....you sort of get the hang of it after a few times. GOOD LUCK.
Not to mention - if the motor has never been out of the chassis....that would be a great opportunity to check and/or replace the motor mounts (known for going bad) along with checking your oil pump cable (also known for going bad).
I just got done putting the motor back in my 06 as well. Not that bad at all. I have actually had that 900 out a few times.....you sort of get the hang of it after a few times. GOOD LUCK.
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sno_mo_racer
Well-known member
I agree, the '05 is easier to do top end inside, but the '06 is a pain in the a**. Remove the fuel tank, disconnect all wires from ecu, and sensors, pipe, clutch, throttle bodies can be left if wanted. While the engine is out, go through the front and rear rubber engine mounts, must check fronts on a vise and stick a screw driver in hole, flex around to look for torn mounts. Also look at the throttle to oil cable with a copper elbow in it, they are known to break and cause high or low oil usage.
When getting it back together make sure you take care in putting the ecu connectors together mainly the injector wires, when I put mine together they connected and started throwing an injector code. Turns out the pins inside the connectors push out. Save you the hastle of taking fuel tank off again and going through the connectors.
Also when taking the injectors off the engine there is little green gaskets that are inside and they do not come with the gasket kit. I reused mine as they were still good and no problems. Just make sure not to lose them.
When getting it back together make sure you take care in putting the ecu connectors together mainly the injector wires, when I put mine together they connected and started throwing an injector code. Turns out the pins inside the connectors push out. Save you the hastle of taking fuel tank off again and going through the connectors.
Also when taking the injectors off the engine there is little green gaskets that are inside and they do not come with the gasket kit. I reused mine as they were still good and no problems. Just make sure not to lose them.
Gentlemen,
Torque specs for the 900 pot and head bolts?
Torque specs for the 900 pot and head bolts?
What do you guys suggest for motor mounts?
You actually can do a rebuild in-frame, but its a pain in the butt. I had my top end torn down and did my bottom end inspection done (unbeknownst to have water sitting at bottom of crankcase) all with engine still in the frame. Need to remove the fuel tank and everything mentioned, but you can lremove the rear two bolts of the front crossmember, loosen the front two, have the rear engine mount bolts removed, and you can "roll" the engine forward, and hold it forward by wrapping it with a pull-type strap and tying it to the bulkhead, and get at all the nasty stuff behind it such as injectors (mine is an 06 700 so its just like yours, four injectors....nighmare to take out but can be done). But i found the water at the bottom and sent my sled heart off to Indydan for love. Good luck.
H
High Velocity
Well-known member
Kobane, if you've gone that far, why not take the extra ten minutes and put the engine on the bench. They're not that hard to remove and you'll save mucho time and effort rebuilding the engine. I've long believed in working smarter, not harder.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
Im not saying that if you have gone that far you shouldnt just pull the engine out. Im just saying you can 
Left some stuff connected,, did whole top end on these straps...
And sure enough,, mounts torn...
I remember when they tore too,, i was dragin on a road against my buddies F7,, and one of the runs i hooked up nice and at end when i circled around i felt additional vibration in bars... then next gas stop i noticed it got a little worse,, but managable.. I went another 700 miles in my season after that,, no blown belt but my clutches were little hot... my vents in wells i think kept the balance w/ heat and made it thru season..
Front torn, and one rear with the small bolts,, bolts can loose and mount would dance around w/ 2mm gap in bolt head.
From this torn mount experience,, i can say,,, after that mount torn,,,, on cold morning when the rubber was solid and cold it did not vibrate bad,, almost like no torn mount. It took till i hit mile 30-40 and got compartment real hot, and heat transfer to mount rubber,, then the motor began to dance in there and vibration was noticable.
I'v read allot about 900 bad vibration,,,, my opinion : Everyone saying it sucks, guess what,, you got a torn mount ! and kept driving it......
Before mine tore,, i always thought,, well i must have got a good 900, mines just like a big bore sled,,, BUT then mine tore after that drag,,,, Yup kinda sucked after awhile.
I can see how a non=mechanical person could get one of these w/ torn mount and just run it and deal w/ vibration..
Now i have Compfusion mounts and billet member, well i have only drove it on grass,, and i can say that vibration is gone,, it is like it was before the tear... And i am sure after i get on real snow and get that comparment hot and rubber gets heat soaked more vibration will get eatin up.
Im in Michigan,, no snow yet,, im gettin ant'sy..........
And sure enough,, mounts torn...
I remember when they tore too,, i was dragin on a road against my buddies F7,, and one of the runs i hooked up nice and at end when i circled around i felt additional vibration in bars... then next gas stop i noticed it got a little worse,, but managable.. I went another 700 miles in my season after that,, no blown belt but my clutches were little hot... my vents in wells i think kept the balance w/ heat and made it thru season..
Front torn, and one rear with the small bolts,, bolts can loose and mount would dance around w/ 2mm gap in bolt head.
From this torn mount experience,, i can say,,, after that mount torn,,,, on cold morning when the rubber was solid and cold it did not vibrate bad,, almost like no torn mount. It took till i hit mile 30-40 and got compartment real hot, and heat transfer to mount rubber,, then the motor began to dance in there and vibration was noticable.
I'v read allot about 900 bad vibration,,,, my opinion : Everyone saying it sucks, guess what,, you got a torn mount ! and kept driving it......
Before mine tore,, i always thought,, well i must have got a good 900, mines just like a big bore sled,,, BUT then mine tore after that drag,,,, Yup kinda sucked after awhile.
I can see how a non=mechanical person could get one of these w/ torn mount and just run it and deal w/ vibration..
Now i have Compfusion mounts and billet member, well i have only drove it on grass,, and i can say that vibration is gone,, it is like it was before the tear... And i am sure after i get on real snow and get that comparment hot and rubber gets heat soaked more vibration will get eatin up.
Im in Michigan,, no snow yet,, im gettin ant'sy..........
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Thanks guys, rolled it foward, mounts are in good shape except for the push stop on the left hand side is cracked in half, going to replace
Ya,, heee.. i had some buddies say,, "why don't you go get a lift from Harbor freight" I said why, would i want another item used for one thing used once every couple years to stack in garage..
The ladder & winch worked great.
S
sno_mo_racer
Well-known member
Yeah but only way to check the fronts are to remove engine and take mounts off and flex to check them. Since your that close might as well do it right and if there good see if they are drying out or starting to crack will give you an idea of how many more miles they can go.
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Correct Sno_mo, just avisual at them is not where the tears or cracks are formed.. Must remove mount, use vice and put screw driver in bolt hole and bend mount.
If you kick Ars,, their torn,, just the nature of the 900...
What sucks is,, i don't know anyone who checked the front and DIDN't have one or more torn. Thats why i went Compfusion mount,, hopfully im done w/ that probelm.
Where do you order the compfusion mounts from?
