Rear track shock replacement

[rickyboy]

Hi again folks,....
yet another issue with my 2002 700 RMK's. I don't know why but I have blown the rear track shock on both of 700 RMK's. One last yr. and the latest one the other day. ......last yr. I took the first one to the dealer where I think he hosed me for doing the replacement job. I think it was $700. all in. WTF !
So I'm looking for some help on replacing the rear track shock on this sled myself if possible. I can't afford another $700. bill.
I haven't used the sled that I had the dealer change the shock in last yr. and I'm almost afraid to sit on it, let alone ride it, in fear of blowing the shock again!! I'm not a small man {220 lbs} but certainly not so big that my weight should cause these to go.


I'm new to working on anything snowmobile related. I can pull a wrench on motorcycles and cars but don't know my way around sleds very well. If there's anyone that can either give me direction/suggestions on doing this job, I'd sure appreciate it.
many thanks

 

[volcano buster]

Take digital pictures before you remove it.

These things aren't all that complicated, just re-install the parts the way they came out. This is where the pictures come in handy.

I would wonder if you are having other issues with mounting, spring condition, etc allowing the shocks to take too much load and failing. I weigh more than you and haven't had shock issues.

 

[huck1545]

Hi

I just replace my shocks on the same sled as yours.My sled has a 144 for track.My first attempt was a work out for front & back track shocks,skis where easy.But my second time around for the rear shock it was less then half hour it was on the bench.The steps that I took are: I lifted the *** end up off the ground extending from my come along,you will need two 13 mm or 1/2" box wrenches plus two 14 mm or 9/16 wrenches theres just no room for sockets,remove the bolt that holds the two black bars on top first don't loose the bushings there is three of them 2 long one short,next remove the bolt that holds the rod from the shock its easier to wrench from the front of the red bar then back again you will have a bushing just one, now the difficult bolt that hold the bottom end of the shock,once you break the bolt remove nut and washer, now the bolt has to slide all the way out,but there isn't enough room for the bolt to come all the way out due the skid being there so bolt has to slide underneath the skid between skid and track.If you can compress the rod all the way down this will help and having something between the track and skid were the bolt is so it will slide all the way out.


Cheers

Huck

 

[bscman]

I just replaced my rear track shock this week on my '02 800.
There is a bolt on each end, which also hold a pair of suspension links in place. Pull the bolts, drop the shock, and swap it out...

It's pretty straight forward, though the bottom bolt is a tight fit to get all the way out (rail is in the way!). It's easiest if you can put the bumper on a stand and squeeze the lower bolt out under the rail.
If you can swap a shock in a car, this is easier. IIRC, a new rear track shock runs $150.

Why do you keep blowing them?
I'm not sure, but if you are running the original springs...get new ones. They are likely pretty worn due to age (common on these sleds!) Step up one size in spring rate. I'm 220 in full gear plus a gas can on back, and the heavier springs were a HUGE improvement. They run $72 per side.
Then again, if you made it until last year before the shocks went bad on an '02 they had a long, hard life...so I'm not suprised!

 

[whoisthatguy]

I would recommend the heavy duty pair of rear-rear suspension springs. Stock is 0.375" square. Heavy duty is about 0.427" square. If the springs do more work, then the shocks do less work and last longer. All of the Edge shocks are rebuildable and rebuilding should cost no more than $100 per shock. You can remove it yourself and take it in to a snowmobile dealer and have them rebuild it.

 

[bdolinski]

on a side note

I had lots of issues with my RydeFx shock in the back. I had it rebuilt several times, lots of $$! I finally got fed up and went with measuring the length of the stroke on the shock and currently have a ski shock in the place of the Fx. I also bumped up to the heavy springs prior to changing to the cheap shock, I just couldn't keep that POS together holding oil. This $99 ski shock has been serving really well actually. I can try to look it up if you want me to, I believe it was a SPI? I had to take the hand grinder to the top of the shock to remove a little of the mounting material but it's still holding up well. Just my $.02

 

[rickyboy]

Hi

I just replace my shocks on the same sled as yours.My sled has a 144 for track.My first attempt was a work out for front & back track shocks,skis where easy.But my second time around for the rear shock it was less then half hour it was on the bench.The steps that I took are: I lifted the *** end up off the ground extending from my come along,you will need two 13 mm or 1/2" box wrenches plus two 14 mm or 9/16 wrenches theres just no room for sockets,remove the bolt that holds the two black bars on top first don't loose the bushings there is three of them 2 long one short,next remove the bolt that holds the rod from the shock its easier to wrench from the front of the red bar then back again you will have a bushing just one, now the difficult bolt that hold the bottom end of the shock,once you break the bolt remove nut and washer, now the bolt has to slide all the way out,but there isn't enough room for the bolt to come all the way out due the skid being there so bolt has to slide underneath the skid between skid and track.If you can compress the rod all the way down this will help and having something between the track and skid were the bolt is so it will slide all the way out.


Cheers

Huck

I just replaced my rear track shock this week on my '02 800.
There is a bolt on each end, which also hold a pair of suspension links in place. Pull the bolts, drop the shock, and swap it out...

It's pretty straight forward, though the bottom bolt is a tight fit to get all the way out (rail is in the way!). It's easiest if you can put the bumper on a stand and squeeze the lower bolt out under the rail.
If you can swap a shock in a car, this is easier. IIRC, a new rear track shock runs $150.

Why do you keep blowing them?
I'm not sure, but if you are running the original springs...get new ones. They are likely pretty worn due to age (common on these sleds!) Step up one size in spring rate. I'm 220 in full gear plus a gas can on back, and the heavier springs were a HUGE improvement. They run $72 per side.
Then again, if you made it until last year before the shocks went bad on an '02 they had a long, hard life...so I'm not suprised!

I would recommend the heavy duty pair of rear-rear suspension springs. Stock is 0.375" square. Heavy duty is about 0.427" square. If the springs do more work, then the shocks do less work and last longer. All of the Edge shocks are rebuildable and rebuilding should cost no more than $100 per shock. You can remove it yourself and take it in to a snowmobile dealer and have them rebuild it.

I had lots of issues with my RydeFx shock in the back. I had it rebuilt several times, lots of $$! I finally got fed up and went with measuring the length of the stroke on the shock and currently have a ski shock in the place of the Fx. I also bumped up to the heavy springs prior to changing to the cheap shock, I just couldn't keep that POS together holding oil. This $99 ski shock has been serving really well actually. I can try to look it up if you want me to, I believe it was a SPI? I had to take the hand grinder to the top of the shock to remove a little of the mounting material but it's still holding up well. Just my $.02

Thanks to everybody for your comments and suggestions.

When I had the first sleds shock replaced last year by the dealer they charged me $500. for the shock, and almost $200 to re and re.... I see shocks on eBay for about $150. .... I'll see if I can find a manual on my sled and maybe they'll have a section on replacing the shock. I've watched a ton of youtube videos but they don't show the re and re of the shock..... usually the whole track. I'm thinking it must be possible to remove the shock without all the work/hassle of removing the whole track.
I appreciate your description "huck" and it sounds as though removale of the track is not neccesary,....but I found your description to be a little hard to understand,.... sorry.......... i.e. "remove the bolt that holds the two black bars on top first", ........ what black bars? for instance. I'll go out and have a good look at the shock and how it's in there and see if that helps me to understand.

 

[huck1545]

Hi
If u look at the bolt on the bottom end of your shock, u will see that this bolt holds the two same bars but the opposite end ,now follow the bar(s) to top end of your shock and you should see were they are bolted, that is the one I was referring too.


Cheers
Huck

 

[this1ultraflyz]

Yes there should be two black rods running parallel to shock and slightly longer

 

[rickyboy]

Hi
If u look at the bolt on the bottom end of your shock, u will see that this bolt holds the two same bars but the opposite end ,now follow the bar(s) to top end of your shock and you should see were they are bolted, that is the one I was referring too.


Cheers
Huck

Yes there should be two black rods running parallel to shock and slightly longer

I understand what you're say'in,...now that I've had a proper look at things. Do I NEED to have the weight off the *** end of the sled with the track "hanging down" before removing the shock? I don't have a lift or a good place inside the garage where I could use a "come along"/winch to lift the sled up. Aside from a motorcycle lift that I have to get the sled in a better height to work on I don't have a way to "drop" the track. Is this a must do????

Thanks again for everyone's input. I hesitate to put in the same RydeFX shock back in the sled. Is there a good alternative? I'd need to replace the shock before I did the springs, obviously. But I agree the springs would be a good idea.