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Rear Suspension Tuning Questions - Easy Answers?

Frostbite

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I was hoping to learn more on tuning for the Timbersled Mountain Horse.

I looked in the Timbersled setup installation guide and didn't see anything about track deflection so, I have a few tuning related questions.

1. I see the track drivers are not extroverts on the 2012 Mountain Horse kits. I have a 136" track on what I believe is a ST kit with rail extensions. When I lift the track off the ground, the track of course bows below the rails. The maximum distance I measure between the inside of the track and the lower edge of the slide rail hifax is 1 5/8" and that's about 2/3rds of the way back on a 136" track. I felt no track ratcheting but, that seems a little loose for a track not using extrovert drivers. Can I just run it as loose as possible until I start to experience ratcheting?

2. My limiter strap is in the second to the loosest position. Is this optimum for back country boondocking?

3. I currently have 1/4" thick shims ONLY ABOVE my rear skid slide mechanism. I didn't drive the snowbike setup like this but, Prior to removing them (after being told to do so), my skid also had 1/4" shims BELOW the slide mechanism. What's optimum for off trail use?

4. My 2012 rear skid has 180 lb. springs front and rear (as far as I know). I weigh around 170ish. If I am not bottoming out and still have adjustability left in my 180 lbs springs, is there any reason to upgrade to the 200 lb. springs of the 2013 kit.
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I was hoping to learn more on tuning for the Timbersled Mountain Horse.

I looked in the Timbersled setup installation guide and didn't see anything about track deflection so, I have a few tuning related questions.

1. I see the track drivers are not extroverts on the 2012 Mountain Horse kits. I have a 136" track on what I believe is a ST kit with rail extensions. When I lift the track off the ground, the track of course bows below the rails. The maximum distance I measure between the inside of the track and the lower edge of the slide rail hifax is 1 5/8" and that's about 2/3rds of the way back on a 136" track. I felt no track ratcheting but, that seems a little loose for a track not using extrovert drivers. Can I just run it as loose as possible until I start to experience ratcheting?

2. My limiter strap is in the second to the loosest position. Is this optimum for back country boondocking?

3. I currently have 1/4" thick shims ONLY ABOVE my rear skid slide mechanism. I didn't drive the snowbike setup like this but, Prior to removing them (after being told to do so), my skid also had 1/4" shims BELOW the slide mechanism. What's optimum for off trail use?

4. My 2012 rear skid has 180 lb. springs front and rear (as far as I know). I weigh around 170ish. If I am not bottoming out and still have adjustability left in my 180 lbs springs, is there any reason to upgrade to the 200 lb. springs of the 2013 kit.
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1. You will feel your track slip when it is to loose.
2. I have played with the limiter strap in the #1 spot. Seems to lift the front ski more. Very easy to switch so try it and see if you like. I run it in the second hole now and like that. Good on the trail and powder.
3. I think the rear shims work a lot like a rear limiter strap on a sled. Shim on top lowers the rear and lifts the ski. Shim on bottom lifts the rear and pushes ski down.
4. I have a 2013 kit with out the 200 lb. spring and a 2014 one with it and I can't tell any difference. I'm about 170 lbs. plus 10 lbs.for bca air bag. I also have the large gas tank on rear of both kit.
Last thing I run my pre load a little softer than recommend and it seems to float a little better in the powder.
Every thing is easy to play with so adjust and see what happens. Please share what you find out. Sure wish timbersled would tell how to set it up for certain condition. I know they have done many hrs. of testing and the settings they recommend are good all around settings. But sometimes I ride in deep powder and I want to get the most out of that.
 
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