hey i am going to have to tack the suspesion off the sled to weld a broken bracket by rear shock in the rear and was wondering what the easiest procedure was to tack it off..also can i remove this myself and how or do i need an extra hand ?
rear suspension removal instructions
- Thread starter mcmarkrazz
- Start date
Put rear of sled up on a stand. If you don't have a stand a rope or tie down hooked to the back bumper and tied to something on your roof works well.
If using a stand put blocks under the track so the suspension doesn't fall when you remove the bolts. If using a tiedown or a rope just barely lift the sled.
Loosen the rear track adjusters.
remove the rear bolts holding the suspension to the tunnel.
remove the two bolts holding the front of the suspension to the tunnel.
You can raise the back higher at this point for room to work. Then work the suspension out starting with the back. Once you have it clear of the track in the back you can pull it straight out.
If using a stand put blocks under the track so the suspension doesn't fall when you remove the bolts. If using a tiedown or a rope just barely lift the sled.
Loosen the rear track adjusters.
remove the rear bolts holding the suspension to the tunnel.
remove the two bolts holding the front of the suspension to the tunnel.
You can raise the back higher at this point for room to work. Then work the suspension out starting with the back. Once you have it clear of the track in the back you can pull it straight out.
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ZMAN THANX AS USSUAL FOR SOME GREAT INFO..i know the 4 main bolts but just want to do it right so which r the rear track adjusters?.
will i have to drain the fluids with this side laying method or should i be fine left in ?An alternative method of getting it out is to tip the sled over on it's side once the suspension is loose from the tunnel. Then you can swing the back out away from the sled and lift it straight up.
Loosen the bolt in the center of the rear idler wheels a little first. The track adjuster bolts or is riveted to the rail in the back. You are doing this to take the tension off the track before you unbolt the suspension. You will need to loosen the jam nut on the adjuster before trying to loosen it.
ok cool thanx..while i have the suspension off is there anything else that should be checked or replaced (cheap fixes) ..the sled was pretty neglected from previous owner so nothing would have been replaced and it has almost 4000 miles
I find removing the skid with the sled on its side is easiest. Couple of tricks that I find make it easier are:
1. put something down to protect plastics (I use a blanket)
2. Manual says to flip onto PTO side (not sure why)
3. When removing the front bolts. Using a drill or impact wrench, remove one front bolt then clean the bolt and put it back in (careful not to overtorque if using drill/impact wrench as this is really needed for removal but not installation). Remove the other front bolt and keep it out. Remove the other front bolt again. (The reason for this is that both bolts are screwed into a common shaft; when one bolt is out the other will spin as though it is stripped and is quite difficult to remove. I find the steps highlighted make taking the front bolts out simple.)
4. When putting the skid back in:
a. leaving the torsion springs loose (not on the front runner) until you get the bolts back in facilitates suspension manipulation to get the bolts to line up.
b. put the front of the skid in first
c. put one of the front bolts in first
d. put one rear bolts in next.
e. flip the sled onto the track and put the other bolts back in. It's best to have another set of hands available when you do this as with the torsion springs loose the sled will set very low.
5. If you're really having a problem getting bolts to line up, use a set of ratchet straps to help compress the suspension as required. Connect one end to the front suspension mount and the other side to the rear suspension mount and crank as required.
Good luck
1. put something down to protect plastics (I use a blanket)
2. Manual says to flip onto PTO side (not sure why)
3. When removing the front bolts. Using a drill or impact wrench, remove one front bolt then clean the bolt and put it back in (careful not to overtorque if using drill/impact wrench as this is really needed for removal but not installation). Remove the other front bolt and keep it out. Remove the other front bolt again. (The reason for this is that both bolts are screwed into a common shaft; when one bolt is out the other will spin as though it is stripped and is quite difficult to remove. I find the steps highlighted make taking the front bolts out simple.)
4. When putting the skid back in:
a. leaving the torsion springs loose (not on the front runner) until you get the bolts back in facilitates suspension manipulation to get the bolts to line up.
b. put the front of the skid in first
c. put one of the front bolts in first
d. put one rear bolts in next.
e. flip the sled onto the track and put the other bolts back in. It's best to have another set of hands available when you do this as with the torsion springs loose the sled will set very low.
5. If you're really having a problem getting bolts to line up, use a set of ratchet straps to help compress the suspension as required. Connect one end to the front suspension mount and the other side to the rear suspension mount and crank as required.
Good luck
its been pulled and it was ugly chek my other post and help me lol..thanx all
