Raptor user setups

[snobyrd]

I just installed 4 raptors on my 13 155, I'm 160, rear shox is set at 10 5/8, 3 clicks, front Trax 8" 3 clicks, fronts are in stock setting, 3 clicks, I've got lots of sag, without me on it, if I hit 2-3' jumps it lands very soft, but if I'm goin down a road that's got 10-16" whoops at say 30 mph, my ride is rough, my expectations are a very plush ride so I can even sit. I'm not experienced in shox tuning so Im hoping riders with similar weight would chime in and post their settings, I have talked to Jake a few times but I don't wanna drive him nuts with my stupid questions. Maybe my expectations are unreal???

 

[turboless terry]

Those were the shocks I was going to buy but you bought them so i hope your ride is rough. Just kidding. Keep hasseling jake. He should have a setup for you.

 

[CO 2.0]

I'm the same weight as you and have mine at 10 3/8" - 10 1/4". Clickers set at 7 front and rear. I started at 10 5/8" too with 5 clicks and it was too soft for me and would bottom out.

 

[snobyrd]

I'm the same weight as you and have mine at 10 3/8" - 10 1/4". Clickers set at 7 front and rear. I started at 10 5/8" too with 5 clicks and it was too soft for me and would bottom out.

I haven't bottomed out at all, im just not getting a soft spongy ride, maybe I never will with this suspension..

 

[likkerpig]

I would have the expectation that with those shocks you would be able to dial that in. Or better be able to dial it in for that kind of money.

Give Jake a call, he's a great dude with great customer service.

 

[snobyrd]

I have followed his tuning instructions, let out my rear shock spring another 2 turns, and added a few clicks up to five, and it's still not soft, if I go over small multiple bumps at say 20-30 mph, it's not plush, the ride is not harsh but still rough, maybe I need to add spring, I got probably 2 inches of drop in at the rear bumper without me on it.

 

[CO 2.0]

Call Jake and have him explain ride in sag to you. Will give you a much better idea how the stock skid works.

 

[Jeff K]

I run 0 clicks on my front shocks with the sway bar in, and 6 clicks with no sway bar. The spring length is set to the default setting as supplied.

My rear skid is completely different, so I can't help you there.

Adding clicks adds compression dampening, meaning on bigger hits, the more shock has aggressive valving to resist bottom out. If you are not bottoming out, then try less clicks.

With the stock skid you will have about 2" of sag so that is normal.

There is really only so much you can get out of the stock skid. If you want an amazing ride, try out a KMOD with the Raptors. It is a night and day difference over the stock skid. Out riding this last week with some buddies and nobody could believe how fast and controlled I could fly over the rough beat out trails.

 

[snobyrd]

I'm gonna hit some local trails today and try some different adjustments. I'm hoping my end result will be just like the ride on my rzr900xp

 

[mrquick68]

I'm not doing cartwheels yet over this package yet, I'm gonna hit some local trails today and try some different adjustments. I'm hoping my end result will be just like the ride on my rzr900xp

Hoping i can help here a little. You need to understand limits of skid geometry so you have resonable expectations. You can only get so far with how the skid is designed. It's not a great skid for trails due to its geometry. it works well in POW though. knowing this it can be made WAY better with good shocks and springs, but it will never be great in the deep and on the trail. It can be great in POW, and OK on the trail at best. The front suspension though is much better, especially with Raptors/Exits and good springs. Tune the RTS to your weight, the FTS to your riding style. The FTS really changes the attitude of this sled. Dial in the ski lift you like, the ski lightness you like, and balance that with how much trenching/pop-up on the snow you can live with. Jake will give you some good base lines though.

Also, don't worry too much about the ride-in sag. It's noraml. you need some drop-out on the skid as well.

 

[snobyrd]

I just chatted with Jake, he's awesome to deal with, he suggesting backing the rear shok spring even more, so I'm gonna try that. It just might come down to the rear skid geometry on this pro may not give me the nice plush ride I want at slow sit down speeds, there is no issue with bottoming out. These shocks are for aggressive riders, and Jake says to get the nice cadalck ride at slow speeds, to upgrade to a kmod, so that might be the option I'll go as well.

 

[Whiz-bang]

Like others have said. Back the spring preload and I think you will be surprised at how much smoother it rides. I know it might sag more than you like but the ride will improve a noticeable amount and it still won't bottom.

 

[snobyrd]

the spring is now backed off as much as possible now, so I've gotta test it again now, after chatting with jake today, I might have to high expectations with this skid, jake gave me a very good offer to exchange for a kmod. The pol geometry is the problem.

 

[Jeff K]

If Jake is offering a trade up to a KMOD, jump on it! You will not be disappointed!

 

[snobyrd]

yes, with money exchange as well, plus he takes my shoks, it was a very decent offer, the best part is, the kmod will fit the pro or cat , so a guy can keep the skid and install it on a newer sled in the future.

 

[RPS]

Raptor

Just to clarify these shocks were purchased second hand from a customer that bought them from a dealer so we had no contact with Snobyrd prior to him purchasing the shocks. With this being said we’re not totally sure who originally (dealer) ordered the shocks and how they might have been set up? Had he ordered them through Raptor we would have pushed him in the direction of a Kmod due to his requirements of needing the utmost in slow speed sit down riding comfort that you can’t get from a Pro Rmk. Our shocks greatly improve the slow speed small bump compliance along with exceptional performance for aggressive balls out riding over the production shock absorbers but you can only get so much out of a none coupled skid (RMK) with its current architecture.

With our continued commitment to outstanding customer service we’ve offered to credit Snobyrd $50.00 more than his purchase price ($750) of the rear shocks towards the cost of a Kmod suspension that will ultimately meet his requirements due to the class leading performance of a fully coupled Kmod suspension. We hope that this will rectify the situation and put the correct parts in the correct application as we have done with so many of our great customers. Thanks Jake

 

[snobyrd]

The statement below is all factual, tks Jake

 

[Headrush]

Just to clarify these shocks were purchased second hand from a customer that bought them from a dealer so we had no contact with Snobyrd prior to him purchasing the shocks. With this being said we’re not totally sure who originally (dealer) ordered the shocks and how they might have been set up? Had he ordered them through Raptor we would have pushed him in the direction of a Kmod due to his requirements of needing the utmost in slow speed sit down riding comfort that you can’t get from a Pro Rmk. Our shocks greatly improve the slow speed small bump compliance along with exceptional performance for aggressive balls out riding over the production shock absorbers but you can only get so much out of a none coupled skid (RMK) with its current architecture.

With our continued commitment to outstanding customer service we’ve offered to credit Snobyrd $50.00 more than his purchase price ($750) of the rear shocks towards the cost of a Kmod suspension that will ultimately meet his requirements due to the class leading performance of a fully coupled Kmod suspension. We hope that this will rectify the situation and put the correct parts in the correct application as we have done with so many of our great customers. Thanks Jake

This is exactly why I bought Raptors.