i have a 2005 900 159 i just rebuilt the whole thing and have the indydan bottom end in it. when i bought the blowen sled it had no rad. after putting it togather and breaking in the rings 2 times, i went for a 11-14 mile ride. the coolant overflowed a bunch. i had a 2nd bottle for it to run into so i did not lose it i just poured it back in latter when the sled was cool. i have done the slp rad remove kit to the hose is still there with the restrictor in it... does the coolant overflow becouse of this should the overflow hose be restricted? do i need to bleed more air?
Rad delete-Coolant bottle
- Thread starter 900 skier
- Start date
M
miller tools
Well-known member
I think you should be good now burped the air out
If you didn't bleed the air out before the ride then most likely that was your problem. Try it again.
Just did two radiator deletes. I tried two ways to blow the air out and they both worked. The key is to get the air out of the high (back) end.
Option 1 -- If you have a tilt trailer or a way to get the front end significantly higher than the back end (large snow bank). Get the front end up. Run the engine for 1-3 minutes. Stop. Let cool. Fill the cooling bottle. Repeat the process (run, cool, fill) until you do not need to fill anymore.
Option 2 -- if you do not have a way to get the front end higher. This may sound stupid but it works. I have done it twice. It is based on taking advantage of the fact that without the front radiator the cooling system is completely circular and that fact that in a closed system air can push a liquid. So here goes. Remove the plastic pieces that cover the cooling hoses near the back radiator. You might have to remove the rear rack. Remove the metal clip that holds the hose onto the back radiator. Do not take off the hose. Start with the hose on the right side. Only remove the clip that is closest to the radiator. Loosen the hose from the metal. You should be able to twist it to make it loose. You are trying to make room for air to come out under pressure. Once the hose is loose, blow a deep breath (it will take several) into overflow hose on the cooling bottle. Keep blowing until you get coolant flowing out of the hose where you loosened the connection. Once you get coolant to flow put the metal clip/clamp back on. At this point you will have all the air out from the cooling bottle to the radiator. Now we want to get the air out of the radiator...if there is any left. So remove the same clip from the other side and repeat the process. Depending on how much coolant you need to get in you may have to fill the cooling bottle every now and then. There should always be coolant in the bottle. If it becomes too hard to blow into the overflow hose open the cooling bottle and let air out. That is the air that will be the air you pushed through the system. You will probably hear a gurgling sound as the coolant replaces the air in the hose. Remember it is a continuous circuit so the gurgling is because the air is being pushed out of the circuit. Once all that is done you may have a little air left and that should come out next time you run the engine. With mine once I ran the engine the coolant went from the fill line to about where the connection to the throttle body is.
You could probably do the above with compressed air just make sure the pressure is not too high as to pop a hole in the rubber or any other place. Remember it is a closed system and the air will have to come out somewhere.
Good luck.
Option 1 -- If you have a tilt trailer or a way to get the front end significantly higher than the back end (large snow bank). Get the front end up. Run the engine for 1-3 minutes. Stop. Let cool. Fill the cooling bottle. Repeat the process (run, cool, fill) until you do not need to fill anymore.
Option 2 -- if you do not have a way to get the front end higher. This may sound stupid but it works. I have done it twice. It is based on taking advantage of the fact that without the front radiator the cooling system is completely circular and that fact that in a closed system air can push a liquid. So here goes. Remove the plastic pieces that cover the cooling hoses near the back radiator. You might have to remove the rear rack. Remove the metal clip that holds the hose onto the back radiator. Do not take off the hose. Start with the hose on the right side. Only remove the clip that is closest to the radiator. Loosen the hose from the metal. You should be able to twist it to make it loose. You are trying to make room for air to come out under pressure. Once the hose is loose, blow a deep breath (it will take several) into overflow hose on the cooling bottle. Keep blowing until you get coolant flowing out of the hose where you loosened the connection. Once you get coolant to flow put the metal clip/clamp back on. At this point you will have all the air out from the cooling bottle to the radiator. Now we want to get the air out of the radiator...if there is any left. So remove the same clip from the other side and repeat the process. Depending on how much coolant you need to get in you may have to fill the cooling bottle every now and then. There should always be coolant in the bottle. If it becomes too hard to blow into the overflow hose open the cooling bottle and let air out. That is the air that will be the air you pushed through the system. You will probably hear a gurgling sound as the coolant replaces the air in the hose. Remember it is a continuous circuit so the gurgling is because the air is being pushed out of the circuit. Once all that is done you may have a little air left and that should come out next time you run the engine. With mine once I ran the engine the coolant went from the fill line to about where the connection to the throttle body is.
You could probably do the above with compressed air just make sure the pressure is not too high as to pop a hole in the rubber or any other place. Remember it is a closed system and the air will have to come out somewhere.
Good luck.
S
sno_mo_racer
Well-known member
This method from the manual worked for me every time I had to bleed the engine. Although my method is a bit different. I loosen the bleed screw then once air is done from there, tighten it again and cycle the engine around 4000rpm for a minute and let the air gurgle out of the overflow bottle, cool down then fill coolant,redo steps. Do it a couple times till no more air gurgles.
COOLING SYSTEM BLEEDING
1. Allow the cooling system to cool completely.
2. Check the coolant reservoir and make sure it is at the
FULL COLD mark.
3. Place the snowmobile in its normal riding position and
apply the parking brake and run the engine at the specified
idle RPM until the thermostat opens up.
4. Open the bleed screw (A) at the top of the water outlet
5. Cycle the RPM from idle to 3000-4000 so that the coolant
can move around the system and push out the air from the
system.
6. Tighten the bleed screw when coolant starts to come out of
the screw area.
7. Turn off the machine and release the parking brake.
8. Allow the system to cool completely and recheck the
coolant level.
NOTE: It is important that the thermostat stays
open! When the thermostat opens it will draw in cold
coolant from the heat exchangers and the cold
coolant may close the thermostat again. Make sure
the thermostat opens and stays open! Cycle the
RPM from idle to enough RPM (4000) to get coolant
to flow but not enough RPM to engage the clutch.
This allows air to bleed from the rear crossover tube.
It is important to get enough coolant flow to purge
the air from the front close-off cooler and observe
this air reaching the bottle.
COOLING SYSTEM BLEEDING
1. Allow the cooling system to cool completely.
2. Check the coolant reservoir and make sure it is at the
FULL COLD mark.
3. Place the snowmobile in its normal riding position and
apply the parking brake and run the engine at the specified
idle RPM until the thermostat opens up.
4. Open the bleed screw (A) at the top of the water outlet
5. Cycle the RPM from idle to 3000-4000 so that the coolant
can move around the system and push out the air from the
system.
6. Tighten the bleed screw when coolant starts to come out of
the screw area.
7. Turn off the machine and release the parking brake.
8. Allow the system to cool completely and recheck the
coolant level.
NOTE: It is important that the thermostat stays
open! When the thermostat opens it will draw in cold
coolant from the heat exchangers and the cold
coolant may close the thermostat again. Make sure
the thermostat opens and stays open! Cycle the
RPM from idle to enough RPM (4000) to get coolant
to flow but not enough RPM to engage the clutch.
This allows air to bleed from the rear crossover tube.
It is important to get enough coolant flow to purge
the air from the front close-off cooler and observe
this air reaching the bottle.
so i tilted agian and opend the bleeder on the head. bunch of air after doing that a bit. then one more good tilted run up into say 148 f. few big bubbles ion the bottale. takling it to the snow agian today.. i will lety you guys know.
took the sled out agian today and maybe all the air is out now. i road say 12 miles and took a look overflowed about 8oz again. but with no real new fresh snow around and scrachers down it ran onder 130 the whole time. but after another 10-12 miles i get back to the truck. this time almost as soon as i was loaded up the coolant levle started going down. and when i added the amount that overflowed it was right back where i started so i did not leak any. also no coolant insit or on the trailer anywhere.