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R/T 1000 Clutching

Looking for some ideas on doing some clutching set ups. I am in the 3-6500 feet level. I am open to some feed back whether it just needing a good secondary like a team or? It is a stock set up and it runs consistant at 8100 rpm's. I just think I could get a little more snap out of it with some clutching.

Thanks



Big
 
If it is an 05,it needs a roller secondary clutch (06 & 07's came w/ a roller).8100 RPM is too high(unless you are sure your tach is off).They are too rich at the top end,unless you lean them out(Boondocker).
 
clutching

I was having problems dialing joe's kit in and he said he would send new helix and guess what never got it. Paid for the first kit and that was all I was able to get for service. Hum Maybe I don't spend anough money to get service.
 
the running rich on the top isnt a bad thing if you climb. i set my sled to burn 1.5 quarts of oil per tank of gas. these sleds run better rich than lean oil is an octane booster and or stabilizer when burning. while some may disagree i believe it to be correct. as for clutching i dont live or ride that low in elevation i ride at 10k and up.
 
i dont live or ride that low in elevation i ride at 10k and up.

Sloppy: what kind of wts you running at 10K?

Stock arms on the RT are 81.4 gm by my scale. Wondering if any mtn guys have experience with the Dalton Brute 60gm arms. What kind of wts would be needed with these lighter arms.

Bigskinz: I'm in seattle. I have dynomojoes kit, 21/51gears, 9tooth drivers, 162. I find 11.6 gm wts work around 4000ft(Stampede)... At Mt.Baker, bottom of Big House is ~6200' and I needed lighter wt and more click. Took out the threaded insert and just ran the hollow pin 10.8 gm. Started at click 3 which worked down low but at 6K I had to go to click 4, then click 5 to hold 8000rpm. In click 3 the rpm was bouncing 7500-6700-7200 when climbing the steep. Click 4 helped, click 5 wheelies me up the hill at 7900-8000
 
as for primary arms ive hear that there are 2 kinds. i have the lighter ones in mine. they are aluminum and have a slight arch to them. ive heard that the others are steel. but cant confirm that. my pin and roller weight is about 15.5 grams. i dont remember what my arms weigh. i had felker do my clutching. hes down by denver. i run the team secondary. i go with either clicker 4 or 5, depending on the day. i hold about 8 grand sometime closer to 8100. my sled doesnt wheelie. elevation im guessing. my clutch setup is pretty good. id like to ride with felker next winter and see if any improvements can be made. its better than it was but id like to thing it could be a little better. im running stock gears too. tried a 19t top gear and it sucked. didnt do squat for track speed while climbing.
 
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I was having problems dialing joe's kit in and he said he would send new helix and guess what never got it. Paid for the first kit and that was all I was able to get for service. Hum Maybe I don't spend anough money to get service.

At this time, I can only offer an apology for that to happen, if you contacted me and I said I would send a helix then I don't know how your correspondance with me fell through the cracks.
I hope I can still help if its not too late to help dial in your sled, i just hope that you can email me
dynamo-joe@shaw.ca

I wish I would have seen a follow up "where's my helix joe".

My apologies for this to happen and hope you will get a hold of me by email with your name/contact info - to get your sled dialed in.

regards
Joey
 
At this time, I can only offer an apology for that to happen, if you contacted me and I said I would send a helix then I don't know how your correspondance with me fell through the cracks.
I hope I can still help if its not too late to help dial in your sled, i just hope that you can email me
dynamo-joe@shaw.ca

I wish I would have seen a follow up "where's my helix joe".

My apologies for this to happen and hope you will get a hold of me by email with your name/contact info - to get your sled dialed in.

regards
Joey

Good response Joe - these things do happen. I know first hand in my own job.
 
Lynn Felkers RT1000 setup runs with the best. Lynn for years rode the RT1000 as his personel Mt. Sled so he know how to get the RT power to the snow....Felkers is also the oldest family owned Skidoo dealer in the Rockies if not the whole country.

I've never seen a Felkers setup that didn't run real strong.

OT
 
06 162 track rode 3-6000ft.
19Tooth Or leave stock and swap drivers
800x ramps 160-260 Ti springs in both clutchs w/ lightweight arms adjust pin weight to run Clicker #3 Helix in the 44' range
 
as for primary arms ive hear that there are 2 kinds. i have the lighter ones in mine. they are aluminum and have a slight arch to them. ive heard that the others are steel. but cant confirm that. my pin and roller weight is about 15.5 grams. i dont remember what my arms weigh. i had felker do my clutching. hes down by denver. i run the team secondary. i go with either clicker 4 or 5, depending on the day. i hold about 8 grand sometime closer to 8100. my sled doesnt wheelie. elevation im guessing. my clutch setup is pretty good. id like to ride with felker next winter and see if any improvements can be made. its better than it was but id like to thing it could be a little better. im running stock gears too. tried a 19t top gear and it sucked. didnt do squat for track speed while climbing.


Checked the book last night. Doo has some aluminum arms they suggest for 8-10000'. There are aftermarket arms as well, Dalton has some 60 gm aluminum arms, Goodwin has something, there are others. The steel arms in my sled are matched at 81.4 gm by my scale.

Wheelies can be controlled by pulling in the limiter strap. I let my strap out a knotch or two in the spring snow for fun. I pull in the strap for winter snow - don't like digging for china.
 
Regarding the light aluminum arm [high elevation setup] guys who want to run my stuff, its only a helix change.

Calibration:
"brp high elevation kit" as installed.
Trade out brp helix to my SMT button or S8R roller helix
Set clicker 4 for 8~11K'
...go

I send along a packet of setscrews with weight values just in case if you have to add a 4/10" of a gram at a time.

Quick engine rpms when flipping the throttle. If the rpms are slower than expected, then we go through a little troubleshooting questions to solve.
 
Regarding the light aluminum arm [high elevation setup] guys who want to run my stuff, its only a helix change.

Calibration:
"brp high elevation kit" as installed.
Trade out brp helix to my SMT button or S8R roller helix
Set clicker 4 for 8~11K'
...go

I send along a packet of setscrews with weight values just in case if you have to add a 4/10" of a gram at a time.

Quick engine rpms when flipping the throttle. If the rpms are slower than expected, then we go through a little troubleshooting questions to solve.

I'll bite

I have your kit, and I've been pretty happy, but I think there may be some room for improvement - for my body weight. I also have an electronic gram scale and have matched my pin/arm weights.

RT 162, Al's can, clean raves, clean throttle bodies, clean clutches, 21-51 gears 9 tooth drivers
steel arms 81gm
std roller 10gm
10.8gm hollow pins, have available balanced .8gm threaded inserts and others
fresh Dalton grey primary spring 205-328
your S8R7 dalton helix
fresh Bombi purple 225-300 (also have tried fresh Goodwin blue-white 220-335 which has nice backshift but not dramatically different from bombi prpl)

me 275# in my skivees - My clutching needs are never gonna be the same as guys who weigh 175-200

In the winter I ride 3-5000 ft in WA state, central Cascade mountains - weather tolerant area (clouds). Your kit works pretty good with 11.6 gm pin wt. click 4. I'm happy here.

In the spring, when the weather is better, I ride Mt Baker and Bear Paw mtn. One area of Mt Baker is BigHouse. The base of BigHouse is ~6200. Above big house is 7200-7500. The crevases above 7500 are too numerous for my liking. However I want the sled to be all that it can be in case I do have to power over a crevase.

Couple weeks ago we go to MtBaker and sled runs good down low 4-5000. 11.6gm pin wt and click 4. We go higher and I start getting the bouncing betty rpms. I click up to 5 then 6 and still have the bouncing betties at 6200 ft.

Last week go back to Baker with 10.8 gm pins (took out the inserts). Start at click 3 for low elevation. We play on the eastern side, working our way up through several skate park valleys. The day was very warm. Snow depth exceeded the 12' probe. We get to 5800-6000 ft, by GPS, and I start getting bouncing betty rpms during a climb. I click to 4 and there is improvement. I click to 5 and I start getting the straight shift - engine goes straight to 8000rpm and clutches open/close to get me up the hill in a strong manner. Limiter strap is out for spring riding, so I do a bit of a wheelie up the hill. At 7200-7500' I'm running reasonably strong, but not as strong as at 6000'. I could go to click 6, but my seat of pants feel is I would like a little less pin wt. - but wait, my pin is as light as it will go.

What are your suggestions?
 
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