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Swaybar fix..
Quick connect..
- Thread starter Bola
- Start date
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You are getting enough bite with that bolt to hold the scratcher from moving at the mount?
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I have moved it to the inside between mounting points, most for the angle and yes i'ts m8 stainless bolt no problem...? Now I can uncoupled in seconds..?
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Why!? Coupled on trail uncoupled off..why?? ?
I find the 36" react front end is already so soft and rolly that I stiffen front shocks to help control the ridiculously easy body roll. No sway bar and its gotta just be so mushy!
What is this “trail” you speak of?
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More stable when i'm trail riding to the mountains ....And it is an sks144 so it's not a pure off the trail more like 30 on 70 off..?
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146
why?? ?
I guess I would be in the same boat. A simple disconnect of the sway bar is cool in all but really once the sway bar has been disconnected, there should be front shock changes completed as well. If no shock changes are completed then the front suspension is not performing at its peak and you typically just run a soft front suspension, which "mimics" your able to carve and get around easy in deep snow. In reality, all your doing is collapsing that shock more on that one side and handicapping the travel of that shock......and kinda fooling one self.
Once you remove or unhook the sway bar it has an affect that should be countered with shock valving or some spring preload (this can be tricky too though) otherwise you really just loosened the front end and made everything super soft. Once in this new super soft setting, the shocks are now at a different ride height and are basically collapsing more and you lose shock travel.
Think of it this way, I'm moving across a side hill and my shock is now collapsed more due to the change. As you traverse the side hill you run across ruts, stumps or other objects that require the suspension to "soak it up". Less travel means less shock to deal with the hit, buck or bang thus transferring that jolt or hit through the machine and ultimately into you!!
With proper valving and shock settings, you traverse the side hill and hit the same rut, stump or object and the shock has more suspension or "travel" to soak up the hit and you travel across the obstruction and keep sidehilling while your buddy behind you is stuck or bucked off .
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