Questions on getting my chevelle painted

[Skogen]

I have a 1969 Chevelle SS 396. Matching #'s. 74k miles.

I am looking to get it painted. The current paint is decent, but has quite a few rock chips and is 25 years old. It was painted about 25 years ago, with the factory color.

The body is straight, doors solid. Has 1 small ding in the right front 1/4 and a small ding in the plate in the nose. Car has no body puddy (well that I know of), also I have found no rust (although that does not mean there is some). The white molding (see pictures) running down the side, I would like taken off and kept off.

Car did have a undercoating sprayed on it, paint on the inside and door jams looks brand new.

Here are my questions. What do I look for when choosing somebody to paint it. I want a quality job, that will last for years. I assume it needs to be stripped down to bare metal, primed and painted again. What do you think a good paint job will run me?

Also, this will not be a trailer queen. What can I put on it to help protect from some rock chips? I was thinking of rocker pannels that were chrome.

I would like it re-painted to the factory color.

Thanks

 

[sky7051]

Outstanding looking classic. As for the rock chip protection once you get it painted. Look at something along the lines of this http://www.xpel.com/products/paint.asp
Just google "rock chip protection". We've used ones just like this for years on the fronts of our open wheel modifieds and have never had any issues with rock chips.

 

[T-Bone]

Very nice looking SS. I had a '71 SS, loved it, but it was kind of a basketcase (rust, worn out non original 350) Wish I would have kept it.

 

[AZ800]

If the current paint job has held up for 25 yrs, there's no need to strip it to bare metal unless it's the 3rd or 4th paint job and is starting to really build up in places. Even then, it would only be a necessity to strip it down if there was adhesion problems (peeling) or spiderweb cracks in the paint.
Surface just needs to be prepped thoroughly (sanded).
If you're looking for show quality, then may want to strip it, but you said not a trailer queen, so just repaint and enjoy.
BTW, very nice car!

Edit: I'm pretty sure that white trim is not OEM, so it's probably just stick on. Any OEM trim from that era will be held on w/ studs and require the holes to be welded up.

 

[DIGGIN DEEP]

go talk to the guys at Flawless autobody in greatfalls.they do excellent work

 

[sledneck84]

Nice Ride

Look for someone who will offer a lifetime warranty on there paint work. If they don't have that they are way behind the times. As previously stated about stripping it. It is not neccesary to strip it if you want a driver and everything is in good shape now and hasn't been repainted a bunch. Go to a shop and have them put a mil gauge on it and that will tell you if it needs stripped or not. It basically tells you how thick the paint on it is. If you brought it to my shop and it was as you said i would be in the $5000 range.
Hope this helps and good luck. Oh, you can get spray on chip guard that is clear so it looks good and resists chips. 3M is what i use.

 

[1Fast68]

I can't provide advice on where to get your work done, but paint jobs now a days are pricey to say the least. Depending on the quality of the body shop and how much prep/ repair they have to do Its extremely common to see 10,000 paint jobs on restored or numbers matching cars.

Here is my ride, not the original motor, not the original trans, not the original anything really. But its still lots of fun.

 

[PhantomCat]

If the current paint job has held up for 25 yrs, there's no need to strip it to bare metal unless it's the 3rd or 4th paint job and is starting to really build up in places. Even then, it would only be a necessity to strip it down if there was adhesion problems (peeling) or spiderweb cracks in the paint.
Surface just needs to be prepped thoroughly (sanded).
If you're looking for show quality, then may want to strip it, but you said not a trailer queen, so just repaint and enjoy.
BTW, very nice car!

Edit: I'm pretty sure that white trim is not OEM, so it's probably just stick on. Any OEM trim from that era will be held on w/ studs and require the holes to be welded up.

I agree with AZ800 & sledneck84...but would also add a little on the mill thickness. If the paint is to thick (between 15 to above mills) it should be sanded so your end paint thickness is in the 7 to 9 mills range...what this does is if you have the max or over thickness of paint, it will make it brittle!! Instead of getting little small rock chips you will get big rock chips and if you are going to drive your baby on Montana roads... you know as well as I do...you'll see rocks! I would recommend without seeing the car to get at least 3 to 4 quotes and feel the repairer out for quality and honesty. See if he is just looking to make a fast buck and scuff and shoot your car when full price is paid for a full strip and paint. Also do not be afraid to ask questions and make them give you a date on when it will be done....very important if you want your car done right and not rushed!! Do not let them nickel and dime you to death with...oops we didn't see this when we wrote the bid, now we have to charge extra!!! Bottom line is do not let them blow smoke up your tailpipe

I would say if you asked me to strip and paint, I would charge any where from 2 to 8 thousand without seeing the car. I would say you would have it back in 3 to 5 months..due to the fact of working on it after work and weekends. I would also recommend not to do the rocker moldings due to dirt and water that does get trapped on the upper edge of the molding and can lead to rust...also have seen upon pulling the rockers off, rust underneath as well!! You can get a good chip guard that is applied prior to paint that will look good and also give your rockers the elastic protection to help with rock chips...as for your nose I would agree with sky7051...the mylar coating is great protection and also looks great if installed properly. This can also be applied on your rockers as well.

Anymore questions and I will be more than happy to help...you can pm me and I'll give you my phone #. I have been a body man for 15 years professionally and have been doing it ever since I could get wrenches for my Granddad and Pops..I work @ OHS Bodyshop in Whitefish Mt. I also do custom flames and paint on the side!!

Good luck and nice ride you have there...

 

[Skogen]

Thanks so much for the help. I have talked with a few auto body shops. Have not ran into one that I fell in love with yet.

Sweet ride Ifast68. They definatly are fun.

Yes, the side moldings are put on with a few studs. The holes would require to be welded closed and then sanded flush again.