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Questions about polishing heads

You got to poor gas down the plug holes and a shot of starting fluid that will get her to go. Next time you want to polish a head you dont do the old school method like you have. What we do now is squirt a good portion of mothers polish down the cylinders until its full. 'only mothers" Pull the sled over thirty times or until your arms are numb with out the plugs in of course." I made that mistake":eek: Then you want to fill the cylinders with diesel to flush and lube. If it comes out the exhaust you need rings. Now you got a polished head and pistons and no sand mess to deal with.
 
No silly, before mothers you need to remove the rings, wrap the entire piston with 100 grit sand paper(aluminum oxide works) then run engine for 2 minutes, work your way up with 200 increments of sand paper to 1000 then you have ported cylinders and head all in one. Then onto the mothers.
 
JSLEDDER, Are you STUPID? Pabst Blue Ribbon in the fuel tank!?! What ever man, your dumb

That's going a little far aint it???? I wouldn't for a minute think of putting some good stuff in there and by the time winter gets here it'll be 100 octane race fuel.
 
speaking of polishing heads, if you get frustrated give the ad on generel snowmobiling a shout, sounds like she would be good at polishing your head?(new delhi)
 
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you guys are forgetting the most important parts!!! after you have run all of the sand out of the exhaust, you have to switch out all your muffler bearings with ntn high speed race bearings.... and once you are done you should race port your chaincase to get full power out of that polished head
 
jlsledder you may be onto something there, although straight beer or alcohol will definitely raise the octane and get rid of the knock sounds, it may be a little rich. You may like to drink above liquid and relive excess into said carb areas.
Definitely alcohol may not help but it will give you something to do while you wait for the others at the finish line
 
or,.....bag all that and go down to the parts store and ask for a can of "compression".........they may look at you a little funny but make sure you tell them you don't want the red can.....it will be to much to start out with and could cause severe damage.......start with the blue can and work your way up to the "RED" can..........

This is like don't worry about all the frilly crap just go "turbo":beer;:beer;:beer;;)

Tabasco
 
If you polish the head, you have to port the chaincase and the fuel tank as well. The inversed compression that you get with the added polishing will probably cause blowby in your pressure valve switch and could overload your port timing decompression relay unless you decrease it by adding port volume to the tank and chaincase. If you are moving up to the red can of compression, you should port the carb float bowls and slides as well in case it backfires, this will help dissipate the backfire pressure wave.

Hope that helps.
 
If you polish the head, you have to port the chaincase and the fuel tank as well. The inversed compression that you get with the added polishing will probably cause blowby in your pressure valve switch and could overload your port timing decompression relay unless you decrease it by adding port volume to the tank and chaincase. If you are moving up to the red can of compression, you should port the carb float bowls and slides as well in case it backfires, this will help dissipate the backfire pressure wave.

Hope that helps.

NoSecond Chances, I almost forgot about the backfire pressure wave.......you are exactly right,.....we had two of those red cans explode in the shop and it knocked all the tires off the wall wall rack and almost hit a customer........

This is serious chit,......just be careful...........;):D:beer;


T
 
you guys are forgetting the most important parts!!! after you have run all of the sand out of the exhaust, you have to switch out all your muffler bearings with ntn high speed race bearings.... and once you are done you should race port your chaincase to get full power out of that polished head

Man...the high speed bearings did not work, I think i took out my turbo! I went to Napa, they thought i was baked, but I only had two dubes. So i went home and cut up some double buck 12 gauge shells, because they go fast enough to kill sh!t.I couldn't find the muffler bearings so i put one in each pipe hoping they would find there spot.The crazy thing is they all got to the turbo but started in a different spot and the propeller did not like that so much.Theres alot of blades,do you need all of them?Any one know what i did wrong?? Now i just own a heavy sled, this sucks!:beer;
 
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YOU MAY ALSO BE ABLE TO GET A LITTLE MORE PERFORMANCE BY SHEDDING SOME WEIGHT, YOU COULD TRY LIGHTENING THE FRAME, REMOVE ANY EXCESS TUBING, CABLES WIRING ETC. TAKE A LOOK YOU NEVER CAN TELL. YOU COULD TRY DRILLING LIGHTENING HOLES IN SKID FRAME. A BUNCH OF 2 INCH HOLES MAY WORK, ALSO DO YOU NEED ALL THAT HEAVY ANTI FREEZE, DRAIN IT OUT, THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX
gET REATIVE, LET US KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT?
 
not so crazy

Hey everyone, I have a question about porting & polishing heads. recently I was reading about someone polishing there heads for more power. I guess they do this by blasting the part with sand. Well, my friend (who works at a performance car shop) and I tried to do this our selves. Not a good idea it seems. I got some sand and hook up a hose to the air intake of my sled, started the sled and started to suck the sand in. Every thing was going great, I got about 1/2 way through the 20lb bag when the motor started to buck and shake. I shut it off and I'm wondering what everyone's thought are. Do you think I have damaged the motor or is this typical of this sort of project?

Actually the old timers use to use dry comet or borax ...a spoonful in each cylinder..and also in the intake in diesals to get the ring compression up...there was as well small pellets that were sold to put down spark plug holes...oil change after the treatment...did it work..???..who knows...
 
Man...the high speed bearings did not work, I think i took out my turbo! I went to Napa, they thought i was baked, but I only had two dubes. So i went home and cut up some double buck 12 gauge shells, because they go fast enough to kill sh!t.I couldn't find the muffler bearings so i put one in each pipe hoping they would find there spot.The crazy thing is they all got to the turbo but started in a different spot and the propeller did not like that so much.Theres alot of blades,do you need all of them?Any one know what i did wrong?? Now i just own a heavy sled, this sucks!:beer;

no no man you dont go to NAPA!!! they dont sell the race muffler brearings you have to go to a proper muffler shop...they will hook you up with the real thing... and on your turbo you can get awa with one blade if you drill 3 1/2 hles in it otherwise you need at least 2blaeds
 
It is so simple!!!

The one thing that all of you are missing is to shut off the oil!!! We all know that oil attracts sand, so if the sand won't flow though then the air won't either.

I agree with the muffler bearings at the muffler shop, I choose Midas Bearings.
 
HHHhhhhmmmmmmmmm

I've read this now about as many time's as I've posted and I couldn't agree with Y'all more then you could imagine I tell Ya Whaaat......

I've Convuledid that Chyaa All Just need a L'il Electric Start Now!!!! To Make it all Works and Fire it up!!!!!

Ima gonna go polish my head now.
 
In mine I allway run it with a little cup of silika dust in the airbox, it prevents ANY future carbon buildup in the engine and the exhaust keep its volume and flow WAY better too!

Ove
 
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