questions about nitrous

[knee deep in it]

i am considering a nitrous install on a 2006 carbed 600 rmk. a few questions

1) do i need to run race gas?

2) do i have to use pods or can they work with an airbox?

3) do i clutch for them or clutch for normal riding?

4) do i jet for them or jet for normal riding?

 

[Jkinzer]

i dont believe you should have to run race gas... i never did w/ my rmk 900 that i had boss noss on last year. you will have to jet for it though... not really sure how the carb'd nitrous kits work the efi ones add fuel as the system adds nitrous though so there has to be some way of adding fuel. as far as the pods to airbox i would recomend using the airbox.... pods draw a lot more hot under hood air than an airbox does. clutching as long as you are 20hp shot or so you should just clutch for normal riding... if you want more than you should clutch for the nitrous but just remember when you do this your sled wont perform at its peak unless you are on the nitrous.

 

[knee deep in it]

thanks, i think you have pretty much answered my concerns.

 

[steveo10]

how big of a shot you doin?

 

[knee deep in it]

dont know, i figure 25 - 30 should be safe

 

[steveo10]

you should be fine then. throw in a gallon of race fuel if you are worried about deto. but that kind of shot you shouldnt have any problems

 

[SnowSnob]

Right on the Boondockers instructions.
A. Important Notes before using Nitrous:
1. We strongly recommend using high octane fuel (at least 94 for most stock motors, more for modified motors). We
have found that race fuel or Boondocker race fuel concentrate mixed with premium gas can provide the necessary
octane.
2. We also recommend using one size colder spark plug (higher number = colder). In some cases decreasing the spark
plug gap an additional .003”-.005” (to around .020”) achieves best results.

As far as clutching, I think most people clutch a little on the low side. Mine runs best at 8-8100 but with a 30 shot I run her 7800-7900 and I still hit 8300 on the button.

 

[INDEEP]

On a carbed engine you don't have to jet for nitrous with the Boondocker manifold. Once your sled is set up properly and runs the way you want it to add nitrous. The vent lines on your carbs go to the nitrous manifold. When "on the button" pressure form the manifold adds pressure to the carb float bowls thus adding the required extra fuel. I've ran up to a 40hp shot and never adjusted my clutching but I used it for climbing and not drag racing. When the engine is under a heavy load and the rpms have dropped it works great for getting back on top of the snow.

 

[INDEEP]

Oh and like steveo said add a gallon of 110 race to your premium for safety. You may not need it for 25hp but it's cheap insurance if your pump gas isn't up to par. And IMO keep your airbox.

 

[knee deep in it]

On a carbed engine you don't have to jet for nitrous with the Boondocker manifold. Once your sled is set up properly and runs the way you want it to add nitrous. The vent lines on your carbs go to the nitrous manifold. When "on the button" pressure form the manifold adds pressure to the carb float bowls thus adding the required extra fuel. I've ran up to a 40hp shot and never adjusted my clutching but I used it for climbing and not drag racing. When the engine is under a heavy load and the rpms have dropped it works great for getting back on top of the snow.

thanks, this is exactly what I will be doing. My application is the same - a little extra when you need it. I love my 600 IQ but, once or twice a day, it would be nice to have an extra 20 hp.

The kit I bought is a Boondocker and it is set up for a 40 hp shot. I am going to keep the airbox as I have not had great luck with pods on my edge.

 

[moyiesledhead]

Buy a second bottle. N2O is very addictive. You'll be on the button more than twice a day!