Question about the pro rmk's

[Duzzi]

Im a Cat guy and I tested one out and I fell in love with the pro rmk and am thinking of switching over.

What are some of the things i should look at or be concerned about the pros.

Ive heard that the a arms are "glued together"

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BILTIT]

Depends what year you are looking at, they are all very similar though.

 

[Duzzi]

looking at the 2014 and the 2015.

 

[BILTIT]

Yes glued a arms and belt drive pulley bolts can be troublesome.

 

[Jaynelson]

2014/2015 glued a-arms haven't really been a notable issue on here.

When those arms first came out int 2013, there were problems with there not being enough glue during manufacturing. But seems to be sorted for the most part.

The bottom bolt on the belt drive breaking seems to be the most common thing for 2014/2015.....but really, it's a true pull and go machine.

Warm it up, don't overheat it, use the scratchers, set the suspension, have fun.

 

[Duzzi]

Being a cat guy i dont deal with a temperature reading.


What is the best temperature to have your sled at?

What is the temperature at which you begin to overheat?

 

[dboivin]

Being a cat guy i dont deal with a temperature reading.


What is the best temperature to have your sled at?

What is the temperature at which you begin to overheat?

mine runs between 127 and 132. have to run scratchers down if i'm on trail to get those temps.

 

[Indy_500]

My sled doesn't move until it hits 100, and even then I won't go over 5k rpms until it hits 120. Most important part is to let the temps stabilize after you start it up when riding, they'll spike to 140-150 and drop down to 90-100.

 

[Old Scud-doo]

Polaris 800's are disposable as far as pistons and rings go. I know I have had bad luck but I haven't seen more than 1380 miles before the piston knifing and ring chipping was bad enough to address. Some people get more miles out of them but I am sure they are going bad by 1000 miles and only get worse. These same people will tell you there isn't a problem with the 800 piston and rings but you look around and there are "fix" kits everywhere and Polaris themselves just came out with a rippled piston to improve lubrication on the Axys motor....but there isn't a problem. Wink, wink.

Can be really good machines if you understand that you might only get 1000 to 1500 miles before a new top end is in order. 11' and 12' had cylinder skirt and piston skirt issues. I haven't seen or heard of one happening to a 13' or newer. If you pull the trigger and you are prepared to keep up on the motor, you'll never be disappointed. Anything else that has happened to Pro chassis is not numerous enough to really mention. Get a 15' if you can. Most likely that all the little bugs have been exterminated.

 

[tuneman]

The 800 pistons are not perfect, but they're also not as bad as you'll hear on the internet. Especially a '14 or '15. Just run it and if it seems like barely any oil is getting used, turn up the oiler to at least 50:1 and you'll likely get 5k miles before you need to worry. I've got over 2k on my '12 and she's just fine. My dad's '13 went to 6,700 miles before he put in a MTNTK kit.

The thermostat opens at 120F. The temp thing is overhyped too, because the digital gauge is right there and it's too easy to see the fluctuations. You have to get well over 200F before the engine will go into protect mode.

Just get one, live the good life and ignore the internet rants...

 

[Solby]

Switched from Cat before last season and couldn't be happier with my 14 pro. Added bumper, tether, holeshot bag, narrowed bars, turned up oiler, TRS thermostat kit, and pulled rope. I have close to 1000 miles on it and it has been flawless. No trouble with belt drive. Did pull cords on one clutch belt late last year. From my experience the 14 pro outdoes the 14 proclimb on everything except trail riding.

 

[Reg2view]

Im a Cat guy and I tested one out and I fell in love with the pro rmk and am thinking of switching over.

What are some of the things i should look at or be concerned about the pros.

Ive heard that the a arms are "glued together"

Any help would be appreciated.

If you don't run trails all the time with it - you can't have more fun with a stock sled for so little money invested.

The prior comments are all reasonable - if the glued a-arms, belt drive, and cooling are concerns, you can get a RMK (non Pro) with steel arms, chaincase, steel driveshaft, and a front cooler, but much lessor shocks, cheaper and without the those concerns. Replace shocks after a year. If you like to jump or fly, consider the Assault RMK - very good stock shocks, chaincase, no carbon tube overstructure (these have broke, too), can be had with the powder or higher durometer track, poo's version, and most consider better, HCR. Regardless, deep snow riding, can't touch the fun factor for the cost with a warranty. Huge aftermarket, and the forum here has the deepest knowledge of the chassis in the universe. Good luck.