Pull Cord Help...

[DOS Media]

I have an 05 rmk 900 and to keep things short, my pull cord ripped off the handle. I am wondering if there is any way to fix this for cheap and quickly. I do not have the ability to take the motor out to get to the recoil casing at this moment, but since the cord was not broken, I am wondering if there is anyway (or any trick) to get it out of the housing without too much of a hassle.

Im currently on a trip in McCall and dont really have the money to take it to someone to fix, and I dont believe I have access to tools to take a motor out (unless its easier then I really think).

I also ran the sled for about 20 miles after the pull cord ripped off the handle and was wondering if that was a bad thing? I have read a couple of different issues on different sleds from people who have run their sled after a broken pull cord (water pump and belt issues I believe).

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Z-Man]

I wouldn't think running it without the pull handle would cause a problem. They even give you an emergency start strap with the sled so you can ride it home without the pull handle.

You may be able to tip the engine forward by removing the rear motor mount bolts, then remove the bottom two on the front crossmember and loosen the top two and carefully rotate it forward watching the wires and hoses when you do it. Then place a block under the rear or have someone hold it up while you remove the bottom allen screw and take the pull start off.

 

[94fordguy]

Shouldn't be a problem to pull the recoil with the motor in the sled. From the Mag side, remove the pipe and can to get un-obstructed access and verify that you can get access to all the bolts on teh recoil housing. If you have never had the motor out, or the housing off, you will find the lowest bolt difficult to access and you may need to notch the frame a little bit to get a direct line to remove it if you don't want to rock the motor forward.

Once the housing is off take a moment to make sure that no strands of the old rope got in around the flywheel. The recoil can be disassembled easily by removing the center nut - be cautious to make sure that no parts come loose as the cam-arm is spring loaded. Once the pre-load on the recoil has been relieved (should be already since your rope broke) you can remove the plastic wheel and replace the rope... be sure to bed the tied end in some gasket maker to prevent it from coming loose and re-assemble.... Once popped back into the housing, the recoil wheel should take about 2 turns to pre-load it before you thread the new rope through the metal housing and bolt it all back together.


It's really not a hard thing to do, just take your time and be observant of how the starting cam and spring work and be sure to not remove the large recoil spring inside the housing.


I can't seem to find the pics when we did my friend's sled this fall.

 

[bustamove]

when you assemble leave the two bottom bolts out. then you can pop it off in under 5min

 

[ttreewalkerr]

I put a big screw driver under motor and pushed it and it tipped the motor just enough to get a allen in on that bolt,,, don't remove motor .

 

[Z-Man]

I put a big screw driver under motor and pushed it and it tipped the motor just enough to get a allen in on that bolt,,, don't remove motor .

Don't do this or it will tear your motormounts.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

What mount could i have damaged by this ? Put 450 miles on so far this season,, everything seems normal.

 

[Z-Man]

Front motormounts. If yours were new you might get away with this. If they have been on their a while it will tear the rubber away from the metal. It can only be seen if you take the engine out unfortunately. If you tore the one you probably wouldn't notice any difference but it would cause the others to fail eventually and you will notice more vibration in your sled.
I just pulled my engine and all 4 were torn. Two were completely seperated and two were just starting to so the engine was basically riding on the torque stops and SLP arm.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

I notice that when the sled is freshly started, and warmed up the motor does not bounce around as much as when it's hot from riding.

 

[Z-Man]

When the mounts are cold the rubber is stiffer. If you tore that one mount the others might hold it better when it is cold and as the engine heats up and the rubber gets softer the engine moves around.

 

[Z-Man]

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2471698

 

[DOS Media]

Thanks everyone for your help. I am going to go try to get this done this afternoon. Ended up calling the McCall trip early due to rain , so I am not in a huge rush to get it done.

And I actually did run across that post that Z-man linked while I first searched on how to do this, so I definitely will not be doing things that way.

Thanks again, and ill post if I have any problems.

 

[kipperdavis]

I had the same thing happen to me! Was able to fish the rope out the hole on top. Although the rope was not as wound up as before! It still works! Had to cut a feet or so off the rope! Good luck!