Pros/Cons of 36" front end
- Thread starter rags319
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It really depends what your main riding style is and what type of terrain consumes your riding time. I spend a lot of time (especially in the spring) riding steep hard rutted make it or break it narrow chutes and if anyone gave me a 36" front end I'd give it back, I prefer 38" or 39" at a minimum. If you gravitate toward tree riding you will more than likely prefer the 36", much easier to lay over. Just because a manufacturer and the industry is making an effort at steering the riding culture to the trees doesn't mean it's for everyone.
you can get the skis to 38 with the 36 front end and Imo its better to have the skis outward then sucked under the spindle on a wider front end.
even on hardpack if you like to sidehill you still have to get the sled on edge which will always be easier with a smaller front end.
Shocks binding?
I do, my cousin just installed his set yesterday. He will try them out in a couple of hours.
I do, my cousin just installed his set yesterday. He will try them out in a couple of hours.
You like the handling. Also should a guy order extra joints. Is that a braking point.
I put the alternative impact on my 16. So far I really like it. Started out with no sway bar. Put it back on a couple of rides ago. Think I will take it back off.
I love it but I can't compare to the other brands since I haven't ridden those.
yes the helm joint is designed to be the weak point so I would get a lower/upper spare in your bag. I had alternative impact with helm joint on my pro ride and I bent a lower joint once, easy fix and no damage elsewhere.
Trenchers had an older design where they were using the same ball joint as polaris but with the chromoly arms I think it was too tough. I hit the PTO side 2 times in a day and ended up with a bent chromoly lower and slightly bent upper arm, bent spindle and a broken shaft that bolts the a-arm to the Bulkhead. They don't sell these anymore and I think going to the helm joint is much better approach. I kept these as a spare/emergency fix and ordered the new model.
Same setup kept the sway bar. Unless you have progressive rate shocks or spring's you're severely limiting the performance of the front suspension without the bar. On edge, there is a tremendous amount of weight on that single ski. Without the bar or right shock, you're left with limited travel to absorb impacts. Double so on cutting an edge going downhill.
Lots of discussion about this, I think the sled performs better with it in the technical terrain.
P.S. Carry extra uppers and lowers (Joints) These arms have saved me from many twisted A-arms in two seasons. They take a hit, and fold in the right spot when they need too! Very happy with them.
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On my second 36’’ Alt Impact kit, first one on a 14 Pro 155, 2nd one on a 18 Axys 163 w/ 19 geometry and high clearance arms. Skis set to center and I feel I’m still over riding the sled. 37’’ may be the perfect stance for this sled to get down the trail and into the goods, We ride slow and off camber all day, it saves a lot of energy but a little squirly on the ride in and out. Still playing with shock set up.
Installed a 36 in" Z Broz front end on my 18 Axys 155 (Arms, shortened factory shocks, and Spindles). I liked the idea anyway, but when the manufacturer makes 36" the standard width on production sleds, that's a sign that it's a good thing. I just used aftermarket parts to do it (many feel factory parts aren't as strong as they could be - different discussion). Overall, I love easy of carving, sidehilling and deep snow performance. I ride mostly trees, and soft snow. The trail rides in and out are a little slower as the sled is taller (compared to pre-Axys) and tippy (compared to orig 18 front end), but I didn't buy an RMK to be a trail sled.
I removed my sway bar, but also installed dual stage springs on the front to help account for the independent L/R. A local shock repair shop put spacers (to shorten overall length) in the shocks to work right with the the narrow arms.
Probably the best $1000 I've spent on upgrades.
I removed my sway bar, but also installed dual stage springs on the front to help account for the independent L/R. A local shock repair shop put spacers (to shorten overall length) in the shocks to work right with the the narrow arms.
Probably the best $1000 I've spent on upgrades.
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