ProRMK MY12 Engine Mount Bolt Upgrade Kit

[mtnsledder]

Finally got the engine mount bolt upgrade kit for one of our 2011 Pro RMKs.

In addition to the kit you will need:

An 8mm Allen socket to torque bolts to 40 ft lbs.
A 10mm X 1.5 metric tap to clean out the mount strap threads.
Loctite 242 or 243 for the last 7 or 8 threads on the new bolts.





Off to Sears for some tools.

 

[mountainhorse]

Thank you for posting up those pics.

Can you take a photo of any identifying marks on the new bolts.

Is there more than one page in the instructions that you can photo?

Also, could you lay the old parts next to the new ones as you install them so other members can benefit from your experience.

Thanks a mil!!

 

[Rev Kev]

Just ordered my Kit today.

 

[mtnsledder]

Bolts say "Camcar 12.9"

Instructions below:





I will examine and take pics of the old parts when I get them out.









The heads on the new bolts are quite a bit larger, as is the interior diameter of the mount insert bushings.

The rubber also seemed a bit harder, it was mentioned that Polaris went to a harder durometer rubber.

I noticed a slight bit of play in the old inserts between the rubber inserts and the engine mount, this with only 750 miles on the sled.

Replace one mount at a time, rear PTO, fwd PTO, rear Mag, then fwd Mag sides.

PTO sides are a breeze with both clutches off, Mag sides a little more difficult with can off. The fwd access hole on mine was partially full of excess adhesive, so not enough room to get the socket thru.

 

[illadvised]

you beat me to it! i had the doc scanner and was waiting to take pics of the bolts and mounts yesterday but never got around to it.

The first thing I noticed was that the bolts were simply larger and the metal sleeve for the over molded rubber had a larger ID for the bolt to fit into.

I really didn't notice much a difference in the rubbers though. They almost felt identical to me. I did the PTO side mounts and put my freshly Indy Dan balanced primary on and started it up. It seemed to shake a little less... but it still shakes pretty good.

I will have to see how the new mounts hold up, after 1300 miles 3 of my 4 seemed pretty worn. As of now, I would just consider this a bolt durability upgrade only.

There may be an opportunity for aftermarket to step in here with something better...

 

[mountainhorse]

New bolts or old bolt (or both) say "12.9" on them??

 

[2mileshigh]

How much?

 

[mtnsledder]

New bolts say 12.9

No markings on the old bolts.

 

[sleddin pete]

How much?

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/images/ranks/polaris.jpg

part #2204633 $68.

 

[Rick!]

New bolts or old bolt (or both) say "12.9" on them??

Using the Rockwell bite test, I find they are pretty close, so I'm thinkin' that they both are 12.9's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PalousePoo]

What is loctite 243????? Called my local Napa store and they don't even have it in their catalogue? Is it equivalent to Red or Blue loctite? Napa Matt do you know? Or is it a Polaris specific made product?

 

[Rick!]

This might help. It's been out since 2008 or so - mebbe they need a new catalog?

I think the altermative is to use Loctite primer with the 242 stuff.

 

[mtnsledder]

The instructions read MY10 and MY11 600 motors use two of the inserts in the front PTO mount.

 

[CHAZWILDMAN]

Is the upgrade kit something you order from local dealer? Is this a polaris upgrade and I would hope it would be something polaris would warranty if they have had some problems with engine mounts breaking....

 

[PalousePoo]

Not warrantied. A few had broken bolts last year. 2012's have these updated bolts and rubber mounts.

 

[xmk1080]

Installed my motor mount kit last night. It was easy, but I must say that I'm very dissapointed that I had to pay for this kit. The bolts are stronger and have a bigger head, obviously there is a problem. Which I did hear of bolts breaking last season. Now to the updated mounts, I have a hard time believing that the durometer is harder, they bend over just as easy as my old ones. They were also new, just replaced under warranty. Duh, why didn't they just put the update kit in to begin with. It looks like the only difference in the mounts is that the steel sleve is thinner so that the new bolt head will fit in it. My motor mounts starting getting loose around 800 miles and then I lost a pto bearing at just over 1000 miles. I wonder if the primary clutch could be out of balance? I also had trouble pulling rpm's on the hill with the same clutch setups with an identical sled, 200 rpms less. New motor(warranty), new mounts(update that I paid for), primary clutch? Somewhere there is a problem and I just want to get it figured out, I love riding this sled! I have also heard that polaris went to a different pto bearing and that the part number is the same. Supposably the race was to thin and cracking due to heat! Just looking for answers and don't want to miss out on any ridding this year.

 

[aebsledder]

Installed my motor mount kit last night. It was easy, but I must say that I'm very dissapointed that I had to pay for this kit. The bolts are stronger and have a bigger head, obviously there is a problem. Which I did hear of bolts breaking last season. Now to the updated mounts, I have a hard time believing that the durometer is harder, they bend over just as easy as my old ones. They were also new, just replaced under warranty. Duh, why didn't they just put the update kit in to begin with. It looks like the only difference in the mounts is that the steel sleve is thinner so that the new bolt head will fit in it. My motor mounts starting getting loose around 800 miles and then I lost a pto bearing at just over 1000 miles. I wonder if the primary clutch could be out of balance? I also had trouble pulling rpm's on the hill with the same clutch setups with an identical sled, 200 rpms less. New motor(warranty), new mounts(update that I paid for), primary clutch? Somewhere there is a problem and I just want to get it figured out, I love riding this sled! I have also heard that polaris went to a different pto bearing and that the part number is the same. Supposably the race was to thin and cracking due to heat! Just looking for answers and don't want to miss out on any ridding this year.

As someone who had their motor mounts break (twice) I totally agree with you on this. It was almost a deal breaker for me last year. I told my dealer I was getting rid of it and they ended up giving me another year of warranty. The thing that bothers me the most about it is that they KNOW there is a problem, and they are choosing to take a "wait and see" attitude on it. Taking the first step and creating an update kit is all well and good, but implementing it is the next step. The thing that I don't understand is that when mine broke the first time it absolutely destroyed my clutches, which were replaced under warranty. To me you would think the benefit of installing the update kit as a warranty item would outweigh the risk of having one break and fixing other things as a result of a broken bolt banging around in there. I like riding the sled, but I am not impressed with their corporate policy on this one.

 

[mtnsledder]

ttt

 

[Norway]

Any thoughts on 12.9 vs 10.9 bolts?

We ha a mid-section steered vehicle literally split in the middle when 24 bolts gave up after years of abuse. Bolts were a long wait to get and we were in a hurry, so we wanted to just buy bolts of similar quality.

Turned out 10.9 bolts were hard to get, but 12.9 no problem. Manufacturer said no go, 12.9 bolt is harder but 10.9 would be better suited for the pulling and yanking this mid section was subjected to.

Just an observation tho, I'll still go oem on this when in warranty. After that, if it keeps braking we'll see.

 

[2XM3]

you have a good point, many times a larger diameter bolt of a softer grade is in fact the best fix in a vibration area, but I suspect they dont want to drill and tap for bigger threads so went to a stronger harder bolt. if I break one of the 12.9's i'll yank the motor and use 1/2 inch grade 8's with my own hard rubber mounts turned in the lathe... Another great fix would be titanium aircraft bolts,just as tough and will stand the flex/vibration.

Oh also even if the rubber is the same durameter remember that the thinner rubber (ie the bigger head bolt) is much less flexable as it will not move as much before stopping, (think 1/2 inch foam vs 6 inches of foam) so actually part of the problem may be that the "thicker" rubber area flexes to much under load and the bigger head bolts cure this problem ????