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RMK-RDR

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So i have a 2011 assault rmk with a ggb can,fire n ice intake in my dash,i turned my oil pump up 3 turns, and im running 91 octane with the non ethanol plug in and im only getting 7950 for rpms? i did notice my spark plug cap wouldnt stay tight on my plug but it was still on just not all the way tight so ill have to fix that but the weather today is a bit warmer its 36 degrees out but feels warmer. Im in Minnesota testing my sled to make sure it works good before i go out west soon so there is no elevation im not sure what size weights im running i think 10-66 because thats what comes stock i think and i put the stock back in after my trips last year so could i maybe need 10-64 weights? i need answers because i leave for out west in 11 days and i dont wanna bring it out west running like this! im gonna put new spark plugs in tomorrow and see if that works. answers would be very helpful thanks!!!:face-icon-small-coo Jake
 
You might try turning down your oil pump, to much oil can cause a lean spot.

New Plugs

It would really figure out what weights you are running, that would be better then guessing...
 
How many miles on your clutch springs? Old springs can lead to a lot of problems when trying to nail down clutching.
 
How many miles on your clutch springs? Old springs can lead to a lot of problems when trying to nail down clutching.

Good point. I've seen that happen too.

Also, where are you riding? 8000' elevation for 800 would be 10-62's and 140/330 spring stock. 8100 to 8200 rpm. That with a stock secondary or a TIED with 73/57 and red/Black spring.
 
Try putting the stock can back on and see how it runs then.

edavis, I'm not sure why turning up the oil would lead to a lean spot... Can you fill in??





.

I was told turning up your oil pump to much will create a lean spot by more oil/fuel ratio...or maybe a bog on top end because the engine is getting the max oil at high RPM anyway, more fueling being pushed through obviously the more oil...

More fuel = more oil, if the engine cant burn all the oil in the engine it would bog at the top end.

Maybe Im wrong on that, but my bashee would do this also under high RPM.
 
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Have you cleaned your clutches ,checked springs , and tried a new belt ? How about cleaning your exhaust valves ?
 
I was told turning up your oil pump to much will create a lean spot by more oil/fuel ratio...or maybe a bog on top end because the engine is getting the max oil at high RPM anyway, more fueling being pushed through obviously the more oil...

More fuel = more oil, if the engine cant burn all the oil in the engine it would bog at the top end.

Maybe Im wrong on that, but my bashee would do this also under high RPM.

Wouldn't turning up the oiler make it RICHER?
 
Try putting the stock can back on and see how it runs then.
.

I agree about trying the stock can. I tried a J+T on mine and noticed I lost 300 RPM. On the other hand I know a lot of guys with aftermarket cans that didn't lose any RPM. It won't hurt to quick swap it out and see if it changes.
 
power?

I would first say x2 on cleaning/checking the power valves, if they are gummed up, she ain't gonna make steam up top in the rpms. Also would make it feel sluggish.

I would assume that the weights that you have in now are what you would be running out west? If so, those lighter weights should be causing an OVER rev down here at sea level. The fact that it wont pull moutain weight down here lends it self to something else is a miss. If those are the weight/clutching that you need for down here, a person could just blame it on the warm temps, and oatmeal like snow dragging the rpms down, how ever I am guessing that is not the case, as those weights seem awfully light.

That being said, I would throw new plugs at it, and fix what ever is wrong with the cap? For sure clean the power valves, and inspect for damage, if it's an 11 and you have not done so yet, your way behind on that matinance. I would also back the pump off 1/2 of the adjustment you made, in case you way over did it. change belts, check/ clean clutches, looking for broken/worn parts, springs bushings rollers ect. When your changing plugs, do a compression check if you have a tester. I don't know for sure what the psi should be for sure, but would guess that it would be in 120-130 range hot. Other wise put you thumb over the spark plug hole/s, and if one side pushes harder than the other by a noticeable amount, you have issues there. If the sled kills instead of going into reverse, is also a sign that she's headed south. Also know that I think some of the 11's had issues some times with the injectors failing at some point.
 
I was told turning up your oil pump to much will create a lean spot by more oil/fuel ratio...or maybe a bog on top end because the engine is getting the max oil at high RPM anyway, more fueling being pushed through obviously the more oil...

More fuel = more oil, if the engine cant burn all the oil in the engine it would bog at the top end.

Maybe Im wrong on that, but my bashee would do this also under high RPM.


You might be confused on this issue. Adding oil to the gas tank will make the Air/Fuel ratio leaner but turning up the oil injetion pump does not. Adding a quart of oil in with the gas will add to the Oil/Fuel ratio by about 44:1 and will affect the Air/Fuel ratio some by leaning out the fuel delivery system.

Simply turning up the oil pump does not affect the Air/Fuel ratio what so ever.

Hope this helps.
 
You're asking if the 10-64's will be the right weights for out west? The west has a huge elevation range some people ride as low as 3000' and higher than 11,000'. What elevation will you be at and where. Wetter snow vs dryer snow.
 
sorry was at work all night but i did put the stock on again and it was actually only getting 7900 for rpms so about the same. so my plan is to clean my exhaust valves tomorrow morning and turn down my oil pump 2 turns and get new plugs and then see where were at. sorry it took awhile to respond was a long night at work couldnt wait to get home and sit on snowest :face-icon-small-coo just wondering do i have to move my steering post to get my one valve out because the steering post is right there? and i dont think the weights have anything to do with this problem now that i think about it. Thanks for the info much appricated! ill be posting after i go through the cleaning process just wondering if i turn down my oil pump alittle does it take a little bit for it to settle from where it was to where i move it or will it work right away? thanks!
 
GOPR0138.jpgGOPR0140.jpg so i found this when i was looking around my sled and last week when i pulled my sled out of the shop and brought it into the shop i cleaned this all up so this oil that is coming out the black drain hose is kinda telling me that my oil pump is turned up to high because im guessing this is a drain hose from somewheres around that area so any thoughts? i will be turning my oil pump down 2 turns tomorrow no matter what because i have to do something and im cleaning my exhaust valves to so hopefully this works!
 
and btw in the second pic all that black wet stuff to the right on the bottom is just water not oil i checked!
 
GOPR0141.jpgGOPR0143.jpg ok so i just pulled out 1 valve and heres what it looks like all i did was pull it out and take a picture. sorry the pictures looks bad the only camera i got is my gopro. Ive never done this before so i dont know if they look bad or good but the looks of it there ok but im still gonna clean em.
 
i bought it last year from my dealer and they did all the maintenance and went through everything and 2 months later i never rode it and then went to colorado and it ran good but wasnt using oil and was scaring me and i ended up breaking a spring in my primary clutch and got it fixed and ran good after that but then before i put into storage for the summer i turned up my oil pump and over the summer i started it almost every 2 weeks but never reved it up much maybe just to 5500 but i did let it warm up to about 90 i always do everytime i go to start it i always let it warm up to at least 90 before i touch the throttle
 
View attachment 191482View attachment 191483 so i found this when i was looking around my sled and last week when i pulled my sled out of the shop and brought it into the shop i cleaned this all up so this oil that is coming out the black drain hose is kinda telling me that my oil pump is turned up to high because im guessing this is a drain hose from somewheres around that area so any thoughts? i will be turning my oil pump down 2 turns tomorrow no matter what because i have to do something and im cleaning my exhaust valves to so hopefully this works!

The oil out of the hose is normal. This is your exhaust valve solenoid vent, so it will vent combustion gases until the ECU tells the solenoid valve to close and this will build pressure under your ev diaphragm and open it. I personally plug this hose because it isn't vented for performance, but rather emissions and it makes this mess.

View attachment 191484View attachment 191485 ok so i just pulled out 1 valve and heres what it looks like all i did was pull it out and take a picture. sorry the pictures looks bad the only camera i got is my gopro. Ive never done this before so i dont know if they look bad or good but the looks of it there ok but im still gonna clean em.

From the pictures, that looks like the normal build up of coking on the exhaust valves. I like to clean mine with break clean and I actually use a scotch brite pad on a pneumatic little die grinder to get most of the hard coked off the valve itself... Hope this helps...

And I agree, I bet you got a sacked out primary spring or your belt deflection is off. I recommend a SLP Blue/Pink primary spring or a Team Lime Green spring. These seem to last a lot longer than the stock black springs..
 
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